Coolant change and Brake lines

Is the coolant change as simple and easy as it appears to be and not a total pain like on my car? Can I get away with just propping up the tank as with most things, instead of removing it completely per the service manual?

Got a full set of Galfer SS brake lines arriving on Thursday. I assume it would be worth waiting until the new pads also arrive? Any issues I should know about when changing the lines and pads? Flush the new lines with new fluid?

Any tips to make these two jobs easier are welcome, even though they would already appear to be rather simple.

Thanks. :thumbup:

You can get away with not removing the tank, but it's not very hard to remove once you've lifted it up anyway, and then it's not in the way.

Sawblade said:

You can get away with not removing the tank, but it's not very hard to remove once you've lifted it up anyway, and then it's not in the way.

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I don't want to have to drain the tank - required for removal, correct? - unless I have to.
:thumbup:

colobb said:

I don't want to have to drain the tank - required for removal, correct? - unless I have to.
:thumbup:

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You don't have to remove the tank, but if you want to it doesn't have to be empty. The way the fuel line attaches to the tank wont allow it to just spill out. When you disconnect it, it will dribble a little. Not much.

The Rayman said:

You don't have to remove the tank, but if you want to it doesn't have to be empty. The way the fuel line attaches to the tank wont allow it to just spill out. When you disconnect it, it will dribble a little. Not much.

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So does the amount of fuel in the tank affect the 'dribble'? Without it beeing so full that it overflows when you tilt it up, does it matter how much fuel is in it?

I leave my tank in place when I change out the coolant. There is a drain plug near the water pump, you can fill from the rad cap, and I use a small hand-held siphon to empy the reservoir (not sure that's even needed).

Do the pads and the lines at the same time. Search for posts by Canadian_FZ6 about brake fluid changes....he's written out the steps in an easy to follow format (bottom line, it's not too hard). The pads are really simple to change on a 2004.

DefyInertia said:

I leave my tank in place when I change out the coolant. There is a drain plug near the water pump, you can fill from the rad cap, and I use a small hand-held siphon to empy the reservoir (not sure that's even needed).

Do the pads and the lines at the same time. Search for posts by Canadian_FZ6 about brake fluid changes....he's written out the steps in an easy to follow format (bottom line, it's not too hard). The pads are really simple to change on a 2004.

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You don't find a bunch of sludge or whatever you want to call it in the bottom of the tank? I just realised that at least for this job, removing the tank would be pointless as I'm going to flush the system, so will need to run the bike a couple of times. But its nice to know that I can remove it without draining it.

DI and I pretty much agree on most topic however I'd say do your lines now. As he stated pads a very easy. You'll like your lines so much you wish you had done them much sooner.

BTW - use DOT 4 brake fluid, not DOT 5. Any brand is fine. DOT 5 does not mix well with the DOT 3 or 4 that is in you system. 5 is silicone based, 3 and 4 are gycol based (for the most part). Be sure to watch out for getting fluid on your paint, it won't remove it but is will stain it.

When I did my lines I had a some seep from the MC, dropped onto the fairing, leaving a stain.

You doing the rear line too? Don't really need an SS rear line but they look cool!

Hellgate said:

DI and I pretty much agree on most topic however I'd say do your lines now. As he stated pads a very easy. You'll like your lines so much you wish you had done them much sooner.

BTW - use DOT 4 brake fluid, not DOT 5. Any brand is fine. DOT 5 does not mix well with the DOT 3 or 4 that is in you system. 5 is silicone based, 3 and 4 are gycol based (for the most part). Be sure to watch out for getting fluid on your paint, it won't remove it but is will stain it.

When I did my lines I had a some seep from the MC, dropped onto the fairing, leaving a stain.

You doing the rear line too? Don't really need an SS rear line but they look cool!

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This is my first bike in a while (bought April last year) and had always planned on upgrading to SS brake lines whenever I got a bike again, but never got round to buying any last year. I also didn't have any close calls with any deer or elk either. This year I have. Didn't see the bugger (this was around 1am, on my way home after an 18 hour work day) till it was too late, I didn't get stopped until after I passed it. Luckily it stayed in the shoulder and didn't jump out in front of me. I was doing around 70mph at the time, so that wouldn't have been much fun, to say the least. Anyway, thats why I'm going all out on the SS lines (and like you say, they look cool too) and brake pads. Hopefully the pads will also arrive on Thursday. Still waiting to hear back on whether or not the TPS was ever replaced, so might not even ride to work this weekend anyway. I don't need that f...... thing failing in the wee hours after a long day and only half way home, in one of the dead spots for phone coverage.

I already planned to cover painted surfaces, but thanks for the info. Best off assuming the person doesn't know things like that, than have them come back bitching that you didn't tell them.

:thumbup:

Sludge on the bottom of the tank?

You're getting the pads/lines just days apart, right? If so, it's easier to slide the discs/wheel into the fresh/thick pads when there is no fluid in the system and the pistons can be depressed....or at least it has been in my experience. But much like Hellgate, I usually slap new bits on the second I get them

EDIT - just saw your post above. Still not sure what your sludge issue is but yes, I usually run my bike a couple times to really cycle all the old crap out. Once I get it where I want it, I go for a 10 mile or so blast making an attempt to get the bike pretty warm, I then usually need to top the overflow res slightly.

DefyInertia said:

Sludge on the bottom of the tank?

You're getting the pads/lines just days apart, right? If so, it's easier to slide the discs/wheel into the fresh/thick pads when there is no fluid in the system and the pistons can be depressed....or at least it has been in my experience. But much like Hellgate, I usually slap new bits on the second I get them

EDIT - just saw your post above. Still not sure what your sludge issue is but yes, I usually run my bike a couple times to really cycle all the old crap out. Once I get it where I want it, I go for a 10 mile or so blast making an attempt to get the bike pretty warm, I then usually need to top the overflow res slightly.

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I was basing the 'sludge' factor on what was in our two Subarus when I installed the block heaters and changed the coolant, and the previous Subaru that I kinda rolled, which only had 6k on it when I installed the block heater. I have no idea whats on the bottom of the reservoir. Hopefully nothing!

We'll see what happens with the brakes. Like you say, getting them so close together, might aswell wait - if it were weeks then do it now.

Gonna install a second high beam, so hopefully I'll be able to see the killer deer early enough to be able to stop, no matter what my brake system is like.

Oh, didn't see the few days apart. Do it all at once.

I found a MityVac handy for getting fluid into the new lines. Can be use for other things too. Mityvac

Hellgate said:

Oh, didn't see the few days apart. Do it all at once.

I found a MityVac handy for getting fluid into the new lines. Can be use for other things too. Mityvac

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Already got the MityVac in hand!

I thought you meant gas tank. I didn't notice any but I run distilled water and water wetter during the warm months. It's a much smaller system so I'd think sludge willl be minimal...next time I'll prop the tank up and dump everything just to check.

Don't forget to replace the crush washer for the drain valve! (At least my '07 uses them). Sure, I've reused them, but then I'm left with that feeling that's it just not 'right'.

Denver_FZ6 said:

Don't forget to replace the crush washer for the drain valve! (At least my '07 uses them). Sure, I've reused them, but then I'm left with that feeling that's it just not 'right'.

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Its just a copper washer on these, as opposed to a crush washer, right? Do you guys know the size?

colobb said:

Its just a copper washer on these, as opposed to a crush washer, right? Do you guys know the size?

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Right

I don't know the size off hand but a shop should have them in stock as they are probably fairly universal. You can probably get the part number from the microfische.

I flip mine the first time and replace it the second.

DefyInertia said:

Right

I don't know the size off hand but a shop should have them in stock as they are probably fairly universal. You can probably get the part number from the microfische.

I flip mine the first time and replace it the second.

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Works for me.:thumbup:

DefyInertia said:

Right

I don't know the size off hand but a shop should have them in stock as they are probably fairly universal. You can probably get the part number from the microfische.

I flip mine the first time and replace it the second.

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The microfische doesn't show it. Might run down to Napa with it.