Show me what you have.....

fzsixx · Feb 11, 2013

So I have been looking at the eastern beaver fuse blocks so I can wire up some heated grips and put on some other stuff that I want. But im totally lost as to were to mount it on the bike. If you have ever looked under the tank there really is not much room for anything...YAMAHA!!!

Anyway does anybody have any ideas as to were to mount a fuse block. If so let me know were and your experience with it also running components to it. Also show me any electrical components you may have added to your bike and how lights, GPS, Etc... Thanks guys. This forum really is the best!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbup: -Matt

Ssky0078 · Feb 11, 2013

Let me know when you are going to order. I have stuff I need to get from them and we can combine shipping as well as get over that $20 limit.

TownsendsFJR1300 · Feb 11, 2013

There's plenty of room under the fairing, especially the right side.

I have my Stebal horn stuffed under the left side, an electrical distribution box/plate velocroed (Industrial strenth) velocroed to the inside of the fairing. I ran a very well insulated line right from the battery direct to the plate. Its fused to farkles after that. Fairly easy to access should you need to change a fuse out as well.

(been to 133 MPH ((Speedohealer high speed lock, indicated)), NO issues coming loose).

Post #2
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...ng-ideas-pictures-clean-wiring-solutions.html

Two lines for two different GPS's, one HD line for the horn, one HD line for a BMW style electrical outlet (LS by the pillion peg) for battery chargers, heated clothing, etc and some spare spots...

fzsixx · Feb 11, 2013

TownsendsFJR1300 said:
There's plenty of room under the fairing, especially the right side.

I have my Stebal horn stuffed under the left side, an electrical distribution box/plate velocroed (Industrial strenth) velocroed to the inside of the fairing. I ran a very well insulated line right from the battery direct to the plate. Its fused to farkles after that. Fairly easy to access should you need to change a fuse out as well.

(been to 133 MPH ((Speedohealer high speed lock, indicated)), NO issues coming loose).

Post #2
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...ng-ideas-pictures-clean-wiring-solutions.html

Two lines for two different GPS's, one HD line for the horn, one HD line for a BMW style electrical outlet (LS by the pillion peg) for battery chargers, heated clothing, etc and some spare spots...

How many inches of wire did you need to reach the battery from the fender?

callmegandhi · Feb 11, 2013

I'm not comfortable with this, I'm kind of shy! :innocent:

yamihoe · Feb 11, 2013

if you are planning on running any heated accessories--- just a random tid bit....the stator on the FZ cannot support alot of extra accessories. I rode in a hurricane downpour in the right lane at ~5000rpms with the high beams on and the flashers on for about a hour and the ecu came up with an err code for the charging system. So be mindful of the draw of anything you are planning on adding (grips, heated suit etc).

I have a 12v power source for my gps and that runs fine as long as I am on the highway (6000+rpms) with the headlights off (non US model FZ6).

Ssky0078 · Feb 11, 2013

Dude, are you seriously considering throwing on heated grips? Come on now, the lowest it gets during the day is the mid 40s. I've been riding around in my Tourmaster Intake gloves, which are summer gloves, for the last 3 weeks. I have a pair of fake leather gauntlet gloves but I always forget I have them because I've been using the Intake gloves.

In fact I just went for a little 20 minute ride and it was about 42 out at 11:30 pm. I have a Joe Rocket Rasp jacket, and Tourmaster Overpants. The pants are too hot if it's warmer than 55-60 and the jacket does the job but needs a light sweater underneath.

I think the only accessories I'd ever want is a 12v plug for my phone. If I ever moved from AZ to someplace cold I'd get heated gear etc.

I'm just giving you grief but if people realized you were in AZ asking about heated grips, they'll think you've gone soft.:spank:

fzsixx · Feb 13, 2013

Ssky0078 said:
Dude, are you seriously considering throwing on heated grips? Come on now, the lowest it gets during the day is the mid 40s. I've been riding around in my Tourmaster Intake gloves, which are summer gloves, for the last 3 weeks. I have a pair of fake leather gauntlet gloves but I always forget I have them because I've been using the Intake gloves.

In fact I just went for a little 20 minute ride and it was about 42 out at 11:30 pm. I have a Joe Rocket Rasp jacket, and Tourmaster Overpants. The pants are too hot if it's warmer than 55-60 and the jacket does the job but needs a light sweater underneath.

I think the only accessories I'd ever want is a 12v plug for my phone. If I ever moved from AZ to someplace cold I'd get heated gear etc.

I'm just giving you grief but if people realized you were in AZ asking about heated grips, they'll think you've gone soft.:spank:

No way im going soft ha ha.. I ride my bike every day to work and its about sixty miles round trip all freeway from Mesa to the I-17 and Greenway. But on that freeway at six in the morning its like 34-40 deg F outside. Also we has that big cold front last month when it was like 18-26 deg F out and I still had to ride my bike. I wore my snowboarding gloves just so I wouldnt loose my fingers. In situations like that I would just like to have the option of heated grips. It would be a welcome luxury

But you are right most of the time I just wear a hoodie and my riding jacket.

TownsendsFJR1300 · Feb 13, 2013

fzsixx said:
How many inches of wire did you need to reach the battery from the fender?

Do you mean from the battery to the electrical power distribution plate? I don't honestly remember. If doing the same, I'd get the plate and mount it (you'll need a flat surface to get the best grip). Then lift the tank and look at where you want to route the line.

As stated, I put some extra insulation over the new wires (actually its 110 line with the 3, 110 solid wires pulled out and the 2, 12 volt + and - line installed) and attached to the battery. Use a line large enough that it will no doubt handle every accessory you may throw at it all at once.

As I re-call, I routed the line thru the frame (where the opening is on the lower right, front side of the frame for other stock wiring), then back out to the rear of the fairing and forward to the block. I didn't want it contacting anything moving and out of sight, as stock looking as possible..

I think thats what you wanted to know, if not please re-post.

TownsendsFJR1300 · Feb 13, 2013

yamihoe said:
if you are planning on running any heated accessories--- just a random tid bit....the stator on the FZ cannot support alot of extra accessories. I rode in a hurricane downpour in the right lane at ~5000rpms with the high beams on and the flashers on for about a hour and the ecu came up with an err code for the charging system. So be mindful of the draw of anything you are planning on adding (grips, heated suit etc).

I have a 12v power source for my gps and that runs fine as long as I am on the highway (6000+rpms) with the headlights off (non US model FZ6).

It does occassionally get cold down here during the winter (30's 40's F). I have the stock windshield so I don't get a lot of upper wind protection..

I still have my Widder heated vest and heated gauntlet style gloves (they connect together with wires thru your jacket).

I have used them on the FZ6 without issue but only crank them up once moving (at least 3,000 RPM's). At 5K RPM's plus, I can set them on high again without an issue. Usually, the halfway setting keeps me comfy. The set up plugs into my BMW style plug on the left side of bike (25 amp fuse)

Just remember to turn them off when slowing or stopped. Never tripped a code in 4 years, nor had a dead battery...

That's with the BD43 dual headlight mod too.. :thumbup:

PhotoAl · Feb 13, 2013

Another thought on load is to change out all bulbs for LED's, I have an LED tail light and that free's up 10 or 15 watts. If you changed out the running lights (w/o sacrificing safety) theyn should be able to pick up a more. Not much but it does add up. Don't like using resistors on LED turn signals as that increases the current draw - get a LED relay and save the power.

tyler2011 · Feb 13, 2013

Check out: Automotive Wire Terminals - Battery Cable & Electrical Supplies. This is where I got a fuse block and grounding terminal which I mounted under the LT fairing. I like the covered fuses although the back is open. I covered it with electrical tape to help better seal it.

Use this with your own guidance and research (I am not an electrician or an expert so use at your own risk), but I ran 10ga wire from the battery to the fuse block. An 8' piece was more than enough for running both the positive and negative within the 3/8 wire loom. The wire loom is like a thin corrugated plastic that is slit down the middle for more protection. I wrapped the part that is outside the frame and tied it to the fairing support. Make sure the forks don't hit it when fully turned.

I have a 30a fuse at the battery and individual fuses at the block for each accessory. I am a little ocd at times so I soldered some small pieces of 14ga stranded wire from the terminals to the 10ga wire, then heat shrink tubing over it all. My accessories attach with the push on terminal connections with the wire soldered and heat shrink over the terminal connections. A picture would explain it all but I don't have one.

This is kind of off topic from what you asked, but between the battery and fuse block I have a 30A automotive relay which gives power to the fuse block only when the headlight is on. I did this for a couple reasons. I can't drain my battery with the bike off, and the starter gets full power. Once the bike starts, then I have power to all accessories.

Some of the stuff I ordered is seen in the screen clipping, not all for the fuse block. Did some wiring on my truck to.

yamihoe · Feb 13, 2013

scott- im aware that it gets cold, I ride in it alot but can you think of any reason why it would trip the code?

I think it tripped a code because I was going slow and had as much power draw as possible from the battery, besides being drenched (my neutral indicator was glowing while in gear) for well over an hour on my way home (68miles away).

Motogiro · Feb 13, 2013

PhotoAl said:
Another thought on load is to change out all bulbs for LED's, I have an LED tail light and that free's up 10 or 15 watts. If you changed out the running lights (w/o sacrificing safety) theyn should be able to pick up a more. Not much but it does add up. Don't like using resistors on LED turn signals as that increases the current draw - get a LED relay and save the power.

+1 You'd be surprised how much current you save by going to LEDs Your 4 ways running incandescent 1157 or 1156 type lamps will use about 25 watts each. The duty cycle is low because you blinking them but still at the moment they're on the 4 lamps are drawing in the neighborhood of 100 watts. Using LEDs would be far less current draw. Add an LED license plate light and maybe a Motodynamics LED tail light and you've gained a lot more resource for keeping the battery happy.

TownsendsFJR1300 · Feb 14, 2013

yamihoe said:
scott- im aware that it gets cold, I ride in it alot but can you think of any reason why it would trip the code?

I think it tripped a code because I was going slow and had as much power draw as possible from the battery, besides being drenched (my neutral indicator was glowing while in gear) for well over an hour on my way home (68miles away).

I'd have to agree with what you posted above. Between running slow RPM's for awhile and a high draw on the battery/charging system could pop a code.

As noted, my vest and gloves pull a fair amount but I make sure I'm rolling at a decent RPM so the system is still charging (may be very slight-I don't have a volt meter mounted) vs discharging. The BD43 dual headlight mod doesn't help and I do have my idle set at 1,000, which is about break even or slightly drawing from the battery.

I just wanted to make aware that you can run some electrical accessories without issue but you have to pay attention to when the conditions permit. As you and others have noted, the charging system doesn't leave alot of extra power to play with (heck, Yamaha disconnected the right LB headlight to free up some watts).

A Datel, or similar dash mounted volt meter installed would certainly let you know your charging/discharging status and let you decide what to turn on or off, again dependant on the conditions (speed/RPM's/fan kicking on/BD43 mod, etc). Probably a worthwhile investment for any FZ6 owner.

BTW, re the neutral safety switch. Its located on the rear of the engine, one wire to it. If its working fine dry and illuminating when wet, pulling the wire off the screw in switch and coating both connectors with dilectric grease should solve the problem when wet. It sounds like the rain water is causing a ground illuminating the light.

The below link shows the switch (part #7) as well as the connector wire: thumbup:

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2005/FZ6+-+FZ6ST/ELECTRICAL+1/parts.html

fzsixx · Feb 23, 2013

tyler2011 said:
Check out: Automotive Wire Terminals - Battery Cable & Electrical Supplies. This is where I got a fuse block and grounding terminal which I mounted under the LT fairing. I like the covered fuses although the back is open. I covered it with electrical tape to help better seal it.

Use this with your own guidance and research (I am not an electrician or an expert so use at your own risk), but I ran 10ga wire from the battery to the fuse block. An 8' piece was more than enough for running both the positive and negative within the 3/8 wire loom. The wire loom is like a thin corrugated plastic that is slit down the middle for more protection. I wrapped the part that is outside the frame and tied it to the fairing support. Make sure the forks don't hit it when fully turned.

I have a 30a fuse at the battery and individual fuses at the block for each accessory. I am a little ocd at times so I soldered some small pieces of 14ga stranded wire from the terminals to the 10ga wire, then heat shrink tubing over it all. My accessories attach with the push on terminal connections with the wire soldered and heat shrink over the terminal connections. A picture would explain it all but I don't have one.

This is kind of off topic from what you asked, but between the battery and fuse block I have a 30A automotive relay which gives power to the fuse block only when the headlight is on. I did this for a couple reasons. I can't drain my battery with the bike off, and the starter gets full power. Once the bike starts, then I have power to all accessories.

Some of the stuff I ordered is seen in the screen clipping, not all for the fuse block. Did some wiring on my truck to.

So tell me how you wired everything into your headlamp. Also were did you ground out all your accesories? just straight to the battery or to the frame?
thanks that website is awesome. -Matt

Show me what you have.....

fzsixx

Junior Member

Ssky0078

Junior Member

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6

fzsixx

Junior Member

callmegandhi

IM4TH

yamihoe

Professional test dummy

Ssky0078

Junior Member

fzsixx

Junior Member

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6

PhotoAl

Junior Member

tyler2011

Junior Member

yamihoe

Professional test dummy

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6

fzsixx

Junior Member

Similar threads

Forum statistics

Online statistics

Newest members