How To; Save yourself expensive damage later on!

SANGER_A2

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This is very simple advice that is easy to follow, cheap and definitely worth-while...

Lube your locks! Spray some WD-40 into your ignition, seat and helmet locks every few months.

When I took my bike in for my first service, I noticed that the key was difficult to get into the ignition and even more difficult to remove. I blamed this on the ignition and the service guys sprayed some lube into it to see if it would help. Later on, I realised that this was because my key was twisted. I twisted it back so it was flat again using some pliers and continued on as normal. It was only later, I discovered that the reason the key was bent was because I had to really twist it to get the seat lock undone. It kept bending before I lubed the locks.

One day, I was using WD-04 on something else and I sprayed some inside the underseat lock just in case it was did any good. I was amazed to discover that next time I used the lock, the key slid in as smooth as silk and turned the lock so easily.

If I hadn't done this, I would have continued to bend my key in the underseat lock and would likely have eventually snapped it - causing me to have to spend quite a bit of money on a replacement. Spraying WD-40 or similar into your locks every now and then makes a surprisingly big difference!
 
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afpreppie04

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+1 After getting rained on all day while sitting outside work my key got very stubborn to put in the ignition. Some WD40 and 10 rounds of inserting the key and it was back to new.
 

Dennis in NH

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Hm. From day one of owning my bike, the key has been a little stubborn to remove/insert -- not bad but you actually have to think about it. It isn't bad at the seat lock.

So, just stick the plastic tube into the key hole and spray? and maybe wipe the excess off? or spray the key?

I'm hoping this will help my key issue.

For the seat, if I press on the seat where the lock engages underneath, that eases pressure on the metal making it easier to get the seat off.

Thanks,

Dennis
 

Bates121

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Has anyone tried lock graphite. I use it and it doesn't leave the residue that wd-40 does and works just as well if not better IMO
 

SANGER_A2

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Hm. From day one of owning my bike, the key has been a little stubborn to remove/insert -- not bad but you actually have to think about it. It isn't bad at the seat lock.

So, just stick the plastic tube into the key hole and spray? and maybe wipe the excess off? or spray the key?

I'm hoping this will help my key issue.

For the seat, if I press on the seat where the lock engages underneath, that eases pressure on the metal making it easier to get the seat off.

Thanks,

Dennis
Yeah, I found that pressing down on the seat above the lock made it a lot easier too. It didn't help enough after a while though as the key got harder and harder to turn in the seat as it got bent more and more. After I WD'd everything the lock became much much easier and pressing down on the seat makes it turn smooth as butter.

Yup, just stick the plastic tube into the lock (pushing the cover aside) and spray a bit until it has filled up and starts running out.
 

geetarhero

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I would NEVER suggest using WD40 as a lubricant on anything important.

WD40 dries out very easy, and when it evaporates it doesnt leave much of a residual lubricant after, and actually makes things dry out/rust FASTER
Itll be great for a while and then youll notice youll have to start putting more and more WD40 more and more often. Use a quality lubricant, white lithium or just something better than WD. Duponts multi-use that most everyone uses on their chain would give a way better result in the long run
 

2xadv

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I 2nd Geetarhero. The "WD" in WD-40 means Water Displacement, so it will dry out something sticky, but in the end WD-40 almost works as a glue. The residue is not good. But WD-40 is a good chain cleaner/solvent as long as you put something else on afterwards.
The Graphite spray is a lot better if it is the type that does not leave an oily residue behind. In locks you don't want to leave any oils, because those oils catch dirt and grit and cause problems in the long-run. The Graphite "no oily residue dry stuff" is good short term, but a Tribologist (Friction Scientist) I know says that after a short time graphite absorbs water and loses it's lubricity. Almost becomes abrasive, so you need to re-graphite spray rinse it often to remove the old graphite.
For all those reasons the Dupont Multi-use dry lube is ideal. Doesn't absorb water, doesn't attract or hold dirt, Lubricates great, doesn't wash out in the rain. Not perfect, but the best there is for locks and chains. Both exposed places you want to solvent clean/rinse and lube but not have it get dirty from the lubricant.
 
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coachestabrook

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I have had excellent luck with White Lithium with Teflon. My bike sits outside in North Texas, where temps can range from 10*-110* F. over the course of the year. It fixed my sticky ignition cylinder, seat lock and more. I use it to lube hood latch mechanisms on the Jag, as I have a reverse-opening hood and if you break something under there with the hood closed, you are screwed. It also works well on the power window regulator and tracks in my truck.

You should be able to find WL with Teflon from Dupont at Lowe's.
 

hank

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+1 on this...graphite powder is a very clean, easy option as well.

:thumbup:

if I remember right, that is the stuff we put on our handcuffs at work. Any kind of oil like WD would make it tough if a person started resisting. pretty good stuff :rockon:
 

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One day, I was using WD-04 on something else and I sprayed some inside the underseat lock just in case it was did any good. I was amazed to discover that next time I used the lock, the key slid in as smooth as silk and turned the lock so easily.

If I hadn't done this, I would have continued to bend my key in the underseat lock and would likely have eventually snapped it - causing me to have to spend quite a bit of money on a replacement. Spraying WD-40 or similar into your locks every now and then makes a surprisingly big difference!


As well as lubricating the actual lock (the bit you put the key in) it's actually worth while lubricating (I used copper slip) the sliding mechanism that locks into the seat and into the cable. Turn the key every week. ;)

If you have aftermarket exhausts this sliding mechanism is VERY exposed to all the WET road spray and soon gets seized, (PITA - I know to my cost), but can also get "sticky" even with the stock exhaust which does give it more protection.
 
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