Strange sound from Water pump?!

[ozgurakman]

Hi everyone.
There is a whistle noise/sound from water pump.
Sound is very very annoying at idle, 1200 rpm and if bike is cold or warm, no whistle.
The whistle sound is only when bike is full warm.
Also, sound goes when bike revved 1600 or up, no water mixing marks on motor oil or there is not any significant water lost in short time.

I think I'm in trouble, will my bike's water pump fail?

video:
https://flic.kr/p/oVE1fM

 

[Carlos840]

That does sound pretty nasty!

Good news is a water pump is cheap, ebay is full of them around 30$ and i am sure they are not that much more expensive new!

If you are sure the sound is coming from there, change it sooner rather than later...

(actually, it is possible to replace the bearing and shaft on their own, which shouldn't be a big job)

 

[ozgurakman]

Thanks for the reply.
I'm planning to change the bearing, but I'm scaring to mess the pump and it's gaskets/seals.

I hope the noise is coming from pump, I used to a wooden stick to hear engine sounds.

 

[FinalImpact]

Ya, I'd drain the fluid and pull it. Its a few bolts and a hose clamp. Off in 5" once coolant is out.
Look around for the parts as some have been discontinued.
Ps - im w/Carlos.... Sooner than later as bearing failure could allow coolant into the engines oil system.

 

[FZ09Bandit]

My advice, if an OEM is 50-60, and eBay is 30. Don't buy a knockoff..

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Unfortunatly, you cannot but an entire NEW unit, but all the parts are available to rebuild yours;

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2005 FZ6 - FZ6ST WATER PUMP Diagram


The mechanical seal is probably the hardest part to change out(and its really not difficult). If you notice ANY coolant dripping from the bottom of the pump, its a sign that mechanical seal is failing...Check for any reidue as it may be evaporating before it drips/ hits the ground.

As noted above, the assembly comes off the engine in its entirety and can be re-built on the bench... I'd use OEM parts as well. It's likely the last water pump you'll need.

Directions on the re-build are in the shop manual, should you need them...

BTW, putting a screw driver handle to your ear, the working end to the pump, may help pin point down the noise.

 

[ozgurakman]

Should I have to change the pump seals? or can I use them again if I disassemble the pump?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Should I have to change the pump seals? or can I use them again if I disassemble the pump?

The mechainical seal is the main part that fails. I would replace all the seals (not terribly expensive) and much cheaper should the old ones leak coolant into the oil.. (


Were you able to use the screwdriver and narrow it down to the pump

To rebuild, post #8
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/50515-water-pump-strange-noises.html

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Idk about this bike, when cars waterpumps go out they leak out of a weep hole

 

[FinalImpact]

I'd think in this case, one could remove the w-pump, cover the hole and fire the engine off. If the noise is still present, its not the water pump.

Scott, Just curious, why do you say the impeller is the main part that fails? Unless its the victim of neglect and missed scheduled coolant changes, it should last the life of the engine. Those two seals on the other hand, those may not. Especially if the coolant system only contained water with no additives to lubricate the seal.
Even at that, its a pretty good design as the bearing is not relying in encapsulated grease (pregreased bearing). The main bearing is receiving engine oil and is isolated by two seals.

I'd say the likely failure mode is the seals and then the bearing. Mainly because the cooling system is pressurized long after the engine is turned off. And catastrophic seal failure could displace the oil.

IMO - if you touch it, replace all seals and the bearing.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd think in this case, one could remove the w-pump, cover the hole and fire the engine off. If the noise is still present, its not the water pump.

Scott, Just curious, why do you say the impeller is the main part that fails? Unless its the victim of neglect and missed scheduled coolant changes, it should last the life of the engine. Those two seals on the other hand, those may not. Especially if the coolant system only contained water with no additives to lubricate the seal.
Even at that, its a pretty good design as the bearing is not relying in encapsulated grease (pregreased bearing). The main bearing is receiving engine oil and is isolated by two seals.

I'd say the likely failure mode is the seals and then the bearing. Mainly because the cooling system is pressurized long after the engine is turned off. And catastrophic seal failure could displace the oil.

IMO - if you touch it, replace all seals and the bearing.

My boo, I was thinking mechanical seal, NOT impellor (but typed impellor). The impellor itself is virtiually bullet proof.

The mechaincal seal and other seals are of course, all critical.

We've seen how many threads where the coolant is neglected, never replaced until something arises.

The coolant, besides cooling also helps LUBRICATE (I know you know that) that mechanical seal. Lack of coolant, straight water, crappy water, NON distilled water, all take its toll on those parts lubrication wise(besides potential corrosion).

As noted, one seal leaking a little bit of water into the bearing will destroy it...

The KLR's we're famous for the mechanical seal failing. Those engines had the water pump in the case, under a cover (un-like the FZ). It did, like a car, have a weep hole so when it started leaking/failing, the coolant came out of the engine and not into the block (unless a major failure). It actually had a ceramic "washer" that the mechanical seal rode up against. It also had to be shimmed(thin washers) to have the correct tension on the mechanical seal..

 

[ozgurakman]

I'd think in this case, one could remove the w-pump, cover the hole and fire the engine off.

IMO - if you touch it, replace all seals and the bearing.

The main issue is: noise starts randomly, it just needs to a full warm engine. When cold, there is not any noise from water pump. So I can't drive without w.pump for if sound is producing from w. pump

Also you're right. I should replace all of seals one time, and that stupid bearing, too.
Should I buy oem bearing or any fine quality bearing will be fine? (Certainly it'll has same dimensions as oem)

 

[yamihoe]

+1 just change the pump, it is super easy (comparatively speaking) and cheap enough that it wont break the bank to try.
Try changing the water pump in a saab or a w6 vw, they SUCKKKKKKK.
the FZ is easier then a Ford Mod motor, or a older small block chevy, which both take like 20 min.

youll be fine to change it yourself :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

 

[FZ09Bandit]

+1 just change the pump, it is super easy (comparatively speaking) and cheap enough that it wont break the bank to try.
Try changing the water pump in a saab or a w6 vw, they SUCKKKKKKK.
the FZ is easier then a Ford Mod motor, or a older small block chevy, which both take like 20 min.

youll be fine to change it yourself :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Any DOHC v6 maxima, loosening the timing chain. What a nightmare.

 

[ozgurakman]

hi, I'm going to apart the water pump next week. I have a question. should I have to buy new circlip for impeller shaft or can I use it again? There is no stock in Yamaha Turkey and I should wait 3 weeks more if I want to replace that circlip.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

hi, I'm going to apart the water pump next week. I have a question. should I have to buy new circlip for impeller shaft or can I use it again? There is no stock in Yamaha Turkey and I should wait 3 weeks more if I want to replace that circlip.

Part #10 below(from Partzilla)?;

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2005 FZ6 - FZ6ST WATER PUMP Diagram

The shop manual calls for you to replace it. (Its about $10..(US))

You could likely get by with the old one if you use a circlip tool and don't destroy it (shouldn't be hard to remove).

 

[FinalImpact]

Scott, see pm...

 

[ozgurakman]

Hi everyone. I fixed the bike a month ago. Sorry for delaying.
there is a ceramic damper between impeller (no 5) and mechanical seal (no 4) and it was broken. Changed broken part, mechanical seal, bearing and oil seal.
Also that part comes with mechanical seal, in same nylon bag.
Whistling sound completely disappeared and also bearing was fine.

 

[FinalImpact]

Hi everyone. I fixed the bike a month ago. Sorry for delaying.
there is a ceramic damper between impeller (no 5) and mechanical seal (no 4) and it was broken. Changed broken part, mechanical seal, bearing and oil seal.
Also that part comes with mechanical seal, in same nylon bag.
Whistling sound completely disappeared and also bearing was fine.

Can you tell why it might have broke? Any PMs missed, drops or anything like that?
Pictures never hurt either... Tks for sharing!

 

[ozgurakman]

Sorry for pics, I'll post soon.
I started bike without any coolant for 30 secs. Maybe over heating in coolant pump was cracked that porcelain collar...