Clutch Slave Levers - I'm making them again

[killernoodle]

killernoodle has lined up an independent supplier for levers, but not the brackets, which he can speak to the details of, but:

I see you're in OH, not that far from me, or Canada. I ordered both parts from a large dealer in Toronto. I can't recall or locate the dealer name (I got the reference from Yamaha Canada, who only sells them through their dealer network) but they had several in-stock, and encouraged more orders.

If you're willing to pay to have them shipped internationally and make a few phone calls to arrange it, you can have them at your door fairly quickly.

I have to have both the lever and the bracket. The lever has a female splined part that I can't make (nor that I can find made anywhere).

If you send me your lever and bracket, the turnaround time would only be a couple days.

Alternatively, you could wait for the first round of guys to mail me their cores, I'd sell them for $70 and buy back your core for $20 so either way it will cost $50, but there won't be any down time for you.

So whenever you guys get your levers, if you are satisfied with the parts I'll happily refund you $20 for your used parts (only if you shipped me new parts you ordered of course) and I can keep supplying this mod for more people.

 

[06Fz6]

im eager to see the mod on the bike. Stupid question, but does this make the release better on the bike? I hate the way it releases think the cable is worn out from the original owner i like my adjustment at the perch to not be adjusted way out. i even adjusted down on the cable and still dont have the results i want.

 

[killernoodle]

One thing I forgot to mention guys that I figured out when I was test fitting this piece:

Behind the bracket, deep inside the bike, there is a hump that could possibly cause the clutch cable to be pinched and feel stiffer than stock. Make sure that when you attach the revised cable hanger that you route the cable forward of the hump on the transmission, otherwise it will cause a funny bend that puts a weird load on the cable and binds it up.

Its not a big deal to rectify, and I'm pretty sure it would happen with the stock hanger as well, just reach in there and move the cable in front of the hump and it will feel smoother. I only noticed this because when I put the part on my brother's bike, the clutch actually felt stiffer than stock, and it was sticky feeling. I reached in there and moved the cable in front of that hump and the clutch felt smooth as silk after that.

I'll take some pics to show you the part I'm talking about and how to correctly route the cable.

 

[killernoodle]

im eager to see the mod on the bike. Stupid question, but does this make the release better on the bike? I hate the way it releases think the cable is worn out from the original owner i like my adjustment at the perch to not be adjusted way out. i even adjusted down on the cable and still dont have the results i want.

If the clutch pull is 25-30% less stiff, the engagement zone is also 25-30% longer. I've been to the drag strip several times with the mod and the clutch is much easier to modulate to get exactly the amount of torque I want at any given time.

I guarantee you will stall less at lights, take off smoother, shift smoother, etc with this mod. I honestly don't understand why Yamaha didn't make their clutch like this at the factory. I've felt literbike clutches that didn't feel half as horrible as the stock FZ6 clutch.

As far as adjustment goes, when you take the lever off you can put the new lever a spline higher on the shaft to get your adjustment back to factory.

Basically, installing the new lever goes like this:

1. Install the cable hanger bracket with the cable in the 2nd(new) position.
2. Screw the handlebar clutch adjustment (clockwise) and the mid-cable adjustment all the way in.
3. Pull the cable at the motor as far out as it will go to pull the lever at the handlebar all the way out (we need to remove all slack in the cable, just pull it taut)
4. Install the new clutch slave lever onto the cable(but not onto the splined shaft.
5. Put the clutch slave return spring in place.
6. Rotate the clutch input splined shaft clockwise until it stops to take the slack out of it.
7. Position the new clutch slave lever over the input splined shaft and rotate it as hard counter-clockwise as you can before you slide it on the input splined shaft (this is to take all of the slack out of the cable).
8. When the lever is on the input splined shaft, put the clutch slave return spring on the clutch slave lever.
9. Tap the clutch slave lever all the way down and reinstall the factory washer and circlip on the splined input shaft.
10. Adjust the master lever at the handlebar until the desired engagement zone is reached.

 

[discgolfdude]

How many parts do you have left to make them if I send you the lever and the holder? If I pay pal you the money on friday, can you hold me a place till I can get the lever parts to you, after I order them of course?

 

[06Fz6]

i know exactly how to do it. I was just asking about the engagment zone. cause any bike i have ridden always lets out right away and i hate that my bike lets out so far. far as stalling i dont do that but when i leave i concentrate more than i should have to never had to worry about it on any of my previous bikes. So this will def help my engagment to where it wont let out so far?

 

[SirIsaac]

Anyone know where I can buy a new lever to send straight to killernoodle so I don't have to take mine off...

I ordered from here:
PartShark.com - Motorcycle Parts, ATV Parts, UTV Parts, PWC Parts, Powersports Apparel, Motorcycle Accessories for OEM and Aftermarket.

PRODUCT INFORMATION:
Mfg Product Number: 5VX-15441-00-00
Description: HOLDER, CLUTCH CABLE for 2007 YAMAHA FZS6WC/FZS6W
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $5.88
Total Cost: $5.88
Mfg Product Number: 5VX-16340-00-00
Description: PUSH LEVER ASSY for 2007 YAMAHA FZS6WC/FZS6W
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $11.58
Total Cost: $11.58

I ordered early-on with the intention of sending the new parts to killernoodle so I would not have any downtime. But the cable holder was on back-order and killer was ready before I got the new parts, so I had to remove and send the ones off my bike. New parts arrived about 3 days after I shipped my parts to killer.

 

[killernoodle]

i know exactly how to do it. I was just asking about the engagment zone. cause any bike i have ridden always lets out right away and i hate that my bike lets out so far. far as stalling i dont do that but when i leave i concentrate more than i should have to never had to worry about it on any of my previous bikes. So this will def help my engagment to where it wont let out so far?

The engagement zone will be longer, so you will definitely notice the difference between the new clutch and the stock clutch. The engagement zone will be at about the same place on the clutch pull, it will just be wider.

 

[SirIsaac]

Parts arrived, beautiful work!

The lever arrived with the cable-end holder thing in the third position. Do you recommend we try that first, or was it just where you put it for shipping?

 

[killernoodle]

Parts arrived, beautiful work!

The lever arrived with the cable-end holder thing in the third position. Do you recommend we try that first, or was it just where you put it for shipping?

I suggest you try that first. Thats what I ended up keeping it on for the life of my lever. Its 25-30% easier pull. If you find that the transition is too difficult to get used to, you can put it on position 2 and have 10-15% easier pull. Position 1 is the same as stock.

 

[discgolfdude]

I called part shark, and they guy said that the cable holder is on back order, an the lever assembly is in Japan. Should I just order them, and wait? Does anyone know who has them in stock, I sent a payment to killer, but I need the parts. I can't send my parts as I ride year round.

 

[killernoodle]

I called part shark, and they guy said that the cable holder is on back order, an the lever assembly is in Japan. Should I just order them, and wait? Does anyone know who has them in stock, I sent a payment to killer, but I need the parts. I can't send my parts as I ride year round.

The first batch of guys are just now receiving their levers - If they send me the cores from their bikes, I'll be able to supply my revised levers and take in cores from anyone else who buys a set without anyone having any down time.

The price for this is $70 for a lever/bracket, then I refund you $20 when you send me your core parts.

Of course, if that doesn't happen, then everyone is SOL because (just like last time I did this) there are probably only 10-20 spares in the world and we just cleaned them out lol.

 

[fenderfreek]

I'd be interested in one if you can do the "core charge" system. I live near Raleigh, so you should get it pretty quickly.

 

[ngsm13]

I ordered from here:
PartShark.com - Motorcycle Parts, ATV Parts, UTV Parts, PWC Parts, Powersports Apparel, Motorcycle Accessories for OEM and Aftermarket.

PRODUCT INFORMATION:
Mfg Product Number: 5VX-15441-00-00
Description: HOLDER, CLUTCH CABLE for 2007 YAMAHA FZS6WC/FZS6W
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $5.88
Total Cost: $5.88
Mfg Product Number: 5VX-16340-00-00
Description: PUSH LEVER ASSY for 2007 YAMAHA FZS6WC/FZS6W
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $11.58
Total Cost: $11.58

I ordered early-on with the intention of sending the new parts to killernoodle so I would not have any downtime. But the cable holder was on back-order and killer was ready before I got the new parts, so I had to remove and send the ones off my bike. New parts arrived about 3 days after I shipped my parts to killer. Assuming they did not order just one part for me, perhaps they have them in stock now and could ship immediately.

Thanks a ton!

To be clear, it is only these two parts the killernoodle needs? If so, I'll just order them and have them shipped directly to killernoodle.

 

[discgolfdude]

Thanks a ton!

To be clear, it is only these two parts the killernoodle needs? If so, I'll just order them and have them shipped directly to killernoodle.

Just so you know, they don't have them in stock, the clutch holder is on backorder and the other part is still in Japan!

 

[discgolfdude]

The first batch of guys are just now receiving their levers - If they send me the cores from their bikes, I'll be able to supply my revised levers and take in cores from anyone else who buys a set without anyone having any down time.

The price for this is $70 for a lever/bracket, then I refund you $20 when you send me your core parts.

Of course, if that doesn't happen, then everyone is SOL because (just like last time I did this) there are probably only 10-20 spares in the world and we just cleaned them out lol.

I just ordered mine, it could take 6-8 weeks to get them. If someone has their cores sent to you I'll cancel my order and send you $20 more. thanks

 

[ngsm13]

Just so you know, they don't have them in stock, the clutch holder is on backorder and the other part is still in Japan!

Found them at another place also,

PowersportsPlus.com - OEM Powersports Parts from Honda, Kawasaki and Yamaha at discounts up to 80% off MSRP

Use the part numbers from post above.

 

[killernoodle]

Found them at another place also,

PowersportsPlus.com - OEM Powersports Parts from Honda, Kawasaki and Yamaha at discounts up to 80% off MSRP

Use the part numbers from post above.

These companies don't keep OEM parts in stock, they order them from Yamaha directly and therefore they are all getting the parts from the same bucket in some Yamaha warehouse.

If they are on backorder from one place, they are on backorder everywhere.

Your best bet is either to send me your parts (1-2 day turnaround on my end) or wait for me to get some cores back from the first wave of guys.

 

[DefyInertia]

I received mine yesterday but got home late and didn't get a chance to mount it up yet.

Thanks, Killer.

How does one change the position (i.e., remove the clip holding the pin)? I don't want to brake it like I did with the main circlip. Have not had a chance to fiddle with it yet...

 

[killernoodle]

I received mine yesterday but got home late and didn't get a chance to mount it up yet.

Thanks, Killer.

How does one change the position (i.e., remove the clip holding the pin)? I don't want to brake it like I did with the main circlip. Have not had a chance to fiddle with it yet...

If you have thick skin you can push the circlip out with your finger, or you can get some pliars and yank it off. It just slides out to the side. I put all of them in by hand, so you shouldn't need tools unless you are a girly man

I would suggest trying it in that position, though. I think you'll like it.