Clutch lever hard to pull??? The FIX!!!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just an FYI I thought I'd post some information.

23,000 miles on the bike, clutch cable WELL maintained.

While lubing it yesterday (and it was working fine), I noticed the clearish plastic cable insert coming OUT at
the lever end of the cable(nothing should stick put BUT the cable).

While trying to work the cable in and out, I could feel some binding inside, near the lever end of the cable.

After ordering a new cable yesterday, I pulled the old one today and took it apart to see what the issue is.

As you can see below, the inner cable(not seen at all until I tore it apart) was failing badly).

On the TWO sharp curves of the inner cable, there IS a plastic sheathing ATTACHED / IMPREGNATED to that short
part of the cable. In the second pic, you can see the plastic sleeve with a "slice in it". I believe the inner cable wore thru that part.

You can also see the slightly larger diameter sheath that IS part of the outer cable.

This is what was left INSIDE the cable, (not visible) adjacent to the clutch perch, where the plastic sheathing wore thru:





This is the cable where you can see the different thicknesses of the plastic sheathing:
The pen is pointing at where the sheathing failed...





It should be noted that prior to the new cable install, it was "pressure lubed" (and still leaked out the mid section adjuster with nothing coming out the clutch end).

Also, the cable was always pretty easy to pull. It is NOW considerably EASIER TO PULL with the new cable...

**Point being, if your clutch is hard to pull, it doesn't help to lube it, it may very well be damaged INTERNALLY where you cannot see it..


.

 

[bricksrheavy]

Had this happen on my previous bike, the difference is the wires that frayed from the cable caused it to snag on the inner plastic "shell" every time I pulled the clutch.

Didn't know they can fray that badly without manifesting any snagging symptoms though, and considering my cable has 40000 km on it (bought the bike used), I'm gonna order a new one soon.

Thanks for the heads up!

 

[FinalImpact]

Re: Clutch lever hard to pull??? // Replace the cable....

I had noticed the upper perch end that the inner steel cable has a teflon (or nylon) coating throughout the sharp bend. It reduces the saw like effect on the outer jacket.

Did the inner cable frey and protrude through the coating? If so it seems like the cables tempering was wrong making its flex life too brittle to go the distance and the strands snapped one by one.

FWIW: 27,xxx mi on the 2008 w/a mix of city miles commuting in standing traffic 50mi round trip (30%) and playing (70%).

10-40 Mobil 1 for lube as the engine hates it as a lubricant. Let's see how long it lasts.

You replaced this cable once already, correct? And what product has been used as a lubricant? I'm curious which failed first, the coating ot the cable strands?

Glad it didnt snap completely!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Clutch lever hard to pull??? // Replace the cable....

i had noticed the upper perch end that the inner steel cable has a teflon (or nylon) coating throughout the sharp bend. It reduces the saw like effect on the outer jacket. Yes, on both curves, the plastic jacket is attached to the inner cable for that reason

did the inner cable frey and protrude through the coating? The pic's indicate, the plastic short piece specifically, is sliced and came out of the cable that way. I gather the inner cable wore thru the sheath, then metal on metal and started the fraying inside.

If so it seems like the cables tempering was wrong making its flex life too brittle to go the distance and the strands snapped one by one. The plastic inner sheath seems to be the weak point. The sheath VS steel, wear and tear wise, the plastic looses...

fwiw: 27,xxx mi on the 2008 w/a mix of city miles commuting in standing traffic 50mi round trip (30%) and playing (70%).

10-40 mobil 1 for lube as the engine hates it as a lubricant. Let's see how long it lasts.

You replaced this cable once already, correct? Nope, that was the original cable.


And what product has been used as a lubricant? Both cable specific PRESSURE spray and Motul 7100 10w40 oil (applied with a needle direct onto the cable/top sheath).


Glad it didnt snap completely!

I immediately stopped and over-nighted a new cable


To see / feel it (I felt it before I saw anything), the cable needs to be loose on both ends, then simply
push the cable in and out.

ANY BINDING, replace it...If that sheath comes out at the top (being a much sharper bend, there's much more pressure in that upper corner), start looking closer, the sheath is failing.


As a side note, you can access the mid adjuster without pulling the tank/filter box etc BUT the cable has to be pulled half ways out.
As for replacement, the air box, battery needs to come out (it IS FRIGGIN TIGHT with cables, wires, etc in that area) and the battery box at least loosened...

The clutch pull is NOTICEABLY EASIER and smoother..

 

[motojoe122]

Just an FYI I thought I'd post some information.

23,000 miles on the bike, clutch cable WELL maintained.

While lubing it yesterday (and it was working fine), I noticed the clearish plastic cable insert coming OUT at
the lever end of the cable(nothing should stick put BUT the cable).

While trying to work the cable in and out, I could feel some binding inside, near the lever end of the cable.

After ordering a new cable yesterday, I pulled the old one today and took it apart to see what the issue is.

As you can see below, the inner cable(not seen at all until I tore it apart) was failing badly).

On the TWO sharp curves of the inner cable, there IS a plastic sheathing ATTACHED / IMPREGNATED to that short
part of the cable. In the second pic, you can see the plastic sleeve with a "slice in it". I believe the inner cable wore thru that part.

You can also see the slightly larger diameter sheath that IS part of the outer cable.

This is what was left INSIDE the cable, (not visible) adjacent to the clutch perch, where the plastic sheathing wore thru:





This is the cable where you can see the different thicknesses of the plastic sheathing:
The pen is pointing at where the sheathing failed...



It should be noted that prior to the new cable install, it was "pressure lubed" (and still leaked out the mid section adjuster with nothing coming out the clutch end).

Also, the cable was always pretty easy to pull. It is NOW considerably EASIER TO PULL with the new cable...

**Point being, if your clutch is hard to pull, it doesn't help to lube it, it may very well be damaged INTERNALLY where you cannot see it..


.

I didn't cut open my old cable, but I replaced mine pretty close to same millage you did. I started to notice more friction, would lube it and maybe it would last a week before it got hard to pull again.


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

It's a VERY different clutch pull now.

More "springy" as you can feel the CLUTCH springs themselves pulling the cable back..

 

[motojoe122]

It's a VERY different clutch pull now.

More "springy" as you can feel the CLUTCH springs themselves puling the cable back.

Yeah, I didn't realize how bad the pull had gotten.


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[FinalImpact]

I've ridden with 5 or 6 different FZ folks that all needed new cables. Definitely a weak link as these bikes age.
And frankly a safety issue when the pull can not be done with a single finger.

Note to others; it is NOT normal if it takes more than two fingers to disengage your clutch and/or if it doesn't operate butter smooth allowing precise release.

 

[crazydmc]

I've ridden with 5 or 6 different FZ folks that all needed new cables. Definitely a weak link as these bikes age.
And frankly a safety issue when the pull can not be done with a single finger.

Note to others; it is NOT normal if it takes more than two fingers to disengage your clutch and/or if it doesn't operate butter smooth allowing precise release.

yup, I replaced the clutch cable twice on mine

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I forgot to mention, with the two metal bends, the "perch" bend is tighter than the bend just above the engine.

There was NO wear on the lower end of the cable where it curves (pic #2 shows part of the cable with the thinner sheath attached to the inner cable).

As you lube the cable from the top, (literally inches from the most stressed area) this is the area to keep an eye on.

Any splitting of the sheath, slight un-raveling of the inner cable or roughness / binding of the inner cable should be watched for.


BTW, the clutch cable got lubed very often (as does the chain), way before Yamaha recommends.

 

[crownspear]

I just lubed my clutch cable and noticed when pulling it back and forth that I felt some resistance and heard a noise close to the end on the lever side. I suspect I have the same issue as you here Scott, and I want to replace the cable.

Did you buy an OEM? Do you (or anyone else reading this) recommend doing that or is there any good after market cable that is less expensive but of good quality?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I just lubed my clutch cable and noticed when pulling it back and forth that I felt some resistance and heard a noise close to the end on the lever side. I suspect I have the same issue as you here Scott, and I want to replace the cable.

Did you buy an OEM? Do you (or anyone else reading this) recommend doing that or is there any good after market cable that is less expensive but of good quality?

OEM .

It's cheap enough, lasted 23,000 miles, you know it fits correctly and will last as long as the old one (maintained).

I would NOT cheap out on an IMPORTANT part as such, as you will either get stuck or WRECK not having a clutch.
IMO, it's NOT worth it to save a couple $..


I had my cable from Partzilla delivered in about a day for $10.00 (reg shipping was $8.00 and STILL cheaper than a dealer)




.

 

[payneib]

My OEM cable has 54,000 miles on it.

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[crownspear]

I had my cable from Partzilla delivered in about a day for $10.00 (reg shipping was $8.00 and STILL cheaper than a dealer)

Yeah, I don't know where to get it that cheap from Denmark. My go to store has it for about 50 EUR plus 10 EUR shipping, which is about $65. (https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu...6-nahg-2008/steering-handle-cable-356915.aspx).

If I was getting my parts as cheap as you US guys, I'd replace every single part in my bike every 2 years .

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

My original OEM cable went out at about 45k miles in about 35°F weather. Went to pull in the clutch and the cable just 'unravelled' at the end nearest the perch. So impressed with the OEM's longevity I got another one from the local Yami dealer. Only lasted about 5,000mi before seizing up and pulling really hard, needing to be replaced. Created a thread on here actually trying to figure out why. Take all that with a grain of salt though, I never lubed either of the cables. But for some reason the original lasted really really long without maintenance like some other people are getting.

Anyways my reason for saying this is that I replaced the short lived one with a Motion Pro and am extremely happy with it so far. (<2000mi) I didn't realize how bad the pull on the OEM had gotten until I replaced it. Like night and day. The Motion Pro is identical to the OEM from what I can see when they are side by side, but less than $20. I think the OEM was around $40 when I bought it? So even if the MP only lasts half of what people are getting with the OEM(Worst case), I can just replace it again and start fresh for the same price as one OEM cable.

At least that is what I am thinking, we'll see how it holds up in the long run. My FZ has almost 60k mi, so the cable might actually make it to the end...

Just my .02c

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

The upper end of the cable, where the "curve" is the tightest, especially if NOT lubed, seems to be the weak spot over time.


That clear sheath, eventually "goes away" and then it's metal against metal (cable vs steel outer sheath) which doesn't last long.

**Thinking about how long they last, my bike is run pretty much just around town, lots of lights, stop signs etc.

Now folks running longer runs (highway, commuting, ((less shifting, less lever use)), may be getting longer life out of their cables...

 

[bricksrheavy]

... and considering my cable has 40000 km on it (bought the bike used), I'm gonna order a new one soon.

Thanks for the heads up!

Took me a while, but the new cable is here. One thing though, the guy at the Yamaha dealership told me not to lube it since it's already factory lubed - but looking at the midsection I think he was telling me porkies.

Was yours bone dry out of the box too?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't remember but if there was, it certainly wasn't noticeable.

While it was out, I gave it a shot of pressurized cable lube before the install.

I, just two days ago, injected a small amount of 30wt oil (with a needle-used for human injection) into the top of the cable..First lube since the install.

Also, the new cable (about over a month) stretched about one full turn at the adjuster. I like to have the adjuster at 3 turns out, just enough to remove the cable for maintenance. Point being, adjust the cable on the tight side(correct amount of free play, just TIGHTER with maybe 2 rotations OUT when adjusted at the lever.

Do this adjustment BEFORE you replace the air filter tank, etc (and the mid adjuster is still accessible). As I recall, mine was at about 1/2 ways out at the mid cable adjuster..

 

[bricksrheavy]

So I finally replaced the Super Stiff Clutch Cable From Hell, or Old Stiffy for short, but now my clutch is slipping;

- when I put the bike up on the centerstand running, fully squeeze the clutch lever and put it into 1st the back wheel starts turning. And I'm not talking about oil sticking the plates together, the rear wheel spins so hard I have a hard time stopping it with the sole of my boot.

- there is enough freeplay in the clutch lever
- the clutch engages at the very beginning of the squeeze, so squeezing the lever all the way in should dissengage it fully?

Any ideas?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So I finally replaced the Super Stiff Clutch Cable From Hell, or Old Stiffy for short, but now my clutch is slipping;

- when I put the bike up on the centerstand running, fully squeeze the clutch lever and put it into 1st the back wheel starts turning. And I'm not talking about oil sticking the plates together, the rear wheel spins so hard I have a hard time stopping it with the sole of my boot.

- there is enough freeplay in the clutch lever
- the clutch engages at the very beginning of the squeeze, so squeezing the lever all the way in should dissengage it fully?

Any ideas?

It should work the way it did before but easier... It isn't slipping, it isn't disengaging.

You didn't pull the little "arm/lever" at the engine did you?