twobob1
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How about the included "free pusher tool"? will it work ok? I don't have a chain riveter.will I have to push a link out to get it to length. Shall I buy a chain riveter tool or could I get away with just the kit?
Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?
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I'm not familiar with the included tool.
Years ago, I bought a high end DID tool that's fool proof. It's very easy to "OVER SQUASH" the master link rivet.
Thus go slow and measure the head of the ML rivet as it flattens (there's a spec sheet that come's with it).
Cheaper tools, you can OVER TIGHTEN the ML if not careful. If so, grind it off, get another ML and do it again.
I suspect as long as you go slow, measure OFTEN and know what the spec's are, you'd be ok.
As for removing the old chain or removing a link, I didn't use my tool. I simply used an air powered cut off wheel to grind the head off a link(both pin's on one link). The pin will then push out with some assistance... Reading about your kit, the chain is already cut to size.
Years ago, I bought a high end DID tool that's fool proof. It's very easy to "OVER SQUASH" the master link rivet.
Thus go slow and measure the head of the ML rivet as it flattens (there's a spec sheet that come's with it).
Cheaper tools, you can OVER TIGHTEN the ML if not careful. If so, grind it off, get another ML and do it again.
I suspect as long as you go slow, measure OFTEN and know what the spec's are, you'd be ok.
As for removing the old chain or removing a link, I didn't use my tool. I simply used an air powered cut off wheel to grind the head off a link(both pin's on one link). The pin will then push out with some assistance... Reading about your kit, the chain is already cut to size.
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From my experience, your gonna have to remove a few links from the chain to get to the correct length. I'm not sure what "standard length" means. I know what OEM length means. I know what 120 links means. I usually purchase a chain that's is long and remove links, I've never seen one shipped that was ready to use out of the box.
The included tool (if it's the same one in the photo - you never know) looks like it should do the job. Go slow, with small turns.
The included tool (if it's the same one in the photo - you never know) looks like it should do the job. Go slow, with small turns.
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The previous VX chain I ordered came 118 links-no cutting necessary (forgot from where).
I had issues with the 0-rings failing and DID replaced the chain (approx. 2 years later-good will) with a gold side plated 120 link (That's all they had in stock), so some cutting was necessary.
118 links is the standard # of links for the stock sprocket set up (which the sales ad states it is).
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Re: Follow on from possible clicking, Your opinions please..
Merged the thread...
Merged the thread...
twobob1
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Re: Follow on from possible clicking, Your opinions please..
Thanks for all your knowledge guys, I have a angle grinder. I have most of the tools if I order that kit I think I could get away with doing it. Will have to read a lot more about alignment and so on.
I have a torque wrench for the front sprocket nut, obviously loosen before cutting old chain off? and then it tightens ok with new chain on?
Just been quoted from a Yamaha dealer :
£290 all in to have the chain and sprockets all done
£180 deposit for the parts - genuine Yamaha parts he says.
what to do?.....nearly 3 times the price but original parts and someone who knows what they are doing.
Thanks for all your knowledge guys, I have a angle grinder. I have most of the tools if I order that kit I think I could get away with doing it. Will have to read a lot more about alignment and so on.
I have a torque wrench for the front sprocket nut, obviously loosen before cutting old chain off? and then it tightens ok with new chain on?
Just been quoted from a Yamaha dealer :
£290 all in to have the chain and sprockets all done
£180 deposit for the parts - genuine Yamaha parts he says.
what to do?.....nearly 3 times the price but original parts and someone who knows what they are doing.
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Do you have the tools? Do you have the shop manual?
Semi mechanically inclined?
You will need a NEW front sprocket nut.
Just because you go to the shop does NOT mean it's done correctly..
Should you tackle the job (It's not terribly difficult), Remove and re-install the front sprocket with the OLD chain ON. Keep the engine in neutral, stick a steel bar thru the rear wheel & swing arm (padded to you don't scratch the swing arm or rear wheel) and crank away. The shop will likely use an air gun (no torque wrench).
For 3x's the price, I'd buy the tools and do it yourself.
One thing on re-installing the rear wheel, is to pay attention to the rear brake bracket:
Semi mechanically inclined?
You will need a NEW front sprocket nut.
Just because you go to the shop does NOT mean it's done correctly..
Should you tackle the job (It's not terribly difficult), Remove and re-install the front sprocket with the OLD chain ON. Keep the engine in neutral, stick a steel bar thru the rear wheel & swing arm (padded to you don't scratch the swing arm or rear wheel) and crank away. The shop will likely use an air gun (no torque wrench).
For 3x's the price, I'd buy the tools and do it yourself.
One thing on re-installing the rear wheel, is to pay attention to the rear brake bracket:
darius
Never stop exploring
+1 buy the tools and do it yourself. Your tools will pay for themselves and you'll gain mechanical experience to help you tackle more work on the bike down the road.
Have an experienced mate w/ you if you can. Well worth a 6 pack. A helper can also hold the rear brake for the front nut removal.
You will need a breaker bar and the 6 point sockets for the front sprocket, rear wheel nuts. Check the range of the torque wrench you have and do not use it to loosen anything.
Have an experienced mate w/ you if you can. Well worth a 6 pack. A helper can also hold the rear brake for the front nut removal.
You will need a breaker bar and the 6 point sockets for the front sprocket, rear wheel nuts. Check the range of the torque wrench you have and do not use it to loosen anything.
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+1 for do it yourself.
twobob1
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Thanks guys decided I will do it myself, just a matter when. Kids, work etc
The only thing is I can't find the front sprocket nut for sale anywhere. found a fz600 one but no fz6 one.
The only thing is I can't find the front sprocket nut for sale anywhere. found a fz600 one but no fz6 one.
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The OEM stock front sprocket has a "plastic like material" just below the teeth. I suspect it's for noise reduction.
It also makes it easier to tell if the sprocket is worn. If not buying that kit, (maybe e-mail and confirm), go with the OEM sprocket.
bricksrheavy
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Guys, I don't see the locking tab that goes under the nut that's holding his front sprocket, is he missing one or the earlier models didn't have them?
Random picture from the internet so twobob can understand what I'm talking about;
Random picture from the internet so twobob can understand what I'm talking about;
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Brain fart...
The S1's DO have that foldable tab.
The S2's have a washer and NUT. The nut has two edges that get pinned down on the shaft (thinner outer edge that allows pinning to the output shaft)..
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2007/fz6-fzs6w/transmission
S2:
The S1's DO have that foldable tab.
The S2's have a washer and NUT. The nut has two edges that get pinned down on the shaft (thinner outer edge that allows pinning to the output shaft)..
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2007/fz6-fzs6w/transmission
S2:
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Fyi. My 05 S1 has a washer with a locking tab.
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OP, what year is your bike? I see that the frame is silver. In the USA that means it's an S1, but being that you're in Europe I don't know what frames were used.
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Just an FYI, in many places across the pond, the YEAR the bike was sold (could be sold in say 2011), it's considered a 2011 model.
Even if it was manufactured in say 2005...
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The year of manufacture should determine whether the bike is S1 2004-2006 or S2 2007 to 2009. Although some countries list the year of the bike as the year it was registered the year of manufacture, S1 or S2 should be used to order parts. There are easy ways to tell S1 from S2 but some people change the swing arm from an S1 to an S2 so you need to look at other clues.
Here is a link to help with S1/S2 Identification: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_FZ6
S1
S2
Here is a link to help with S1/S2 Identification: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_FZ6
S1
S2
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bricksrheavy
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Here's the model history;
https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/designc...ticle&id=442642&segment=&archive=false&page=4
[MENTION=28881]twobob1[/MENTION]
Make SURE that you get the foldable/locking tab that secures the front sprocket nut, they have been known to loosen without it.
https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/designc...ticle&id=442642&segment=&archive=false&page=4
[MENTION=28881]twobob1[/MENTION]
Make SURE that you get the foldable/locking tab that secures the front sprocket nut, they have been known to loosen without it.
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twobob1
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I ordered the nut with the foldable tab I believe, my bike id definitely a 09 Made in 09. Although it has a silver frame they did orange and blue that year with silver frame. Have ordered the new nut already with new chain and sprockets. Don't feel overly confident about it but will try my best. My worry is rear wheel alignment and chain alignment also weather I have crimped the chain properly and also that nut..... thats a lot of stuff that can go wrong.
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You'll be surprised how fairly easy it is once done.
Re alignment. If you look at your chain (rollers specifically) after lubing and riding you'll see a pattern (where it rides on the rear sprocket).
As long as it's running dead center of the link, your good..
Mine runs dead center and the alignment marks (S2) are apparently even.
I checked by ruler to the swingarm pivot and that was dead nuts on. But simply checking the wear pattern will let you know if there's an issue.
The biggest thing to watch for is that the brake bracket (I posted a pic earlier in this thread), is in the slot.
**Correct CHAIN TENSION (for some folks AND SHOPS) is about the biggest mistake (too tight) made..**
Re alignment. If you look at your chain (rollers specifically) after lubing and riding you'll see a pattern (where it rides on the rear sprocket).
As long as it's running dead center of the link, your good..
Mine runs dead center and the alignment marks (S2) are apparently even.
I checked by ruler to the swingarm pivot and that was dead nuts on. But simply checking the wear pattern will let you know if there's an issue.
The biggest thing to watch for is that the brake bracket (I posted a pic earlier in this thread), is in the slot.
**Correct CHAIN TENSION (for some folks AND SHOPS) is about the biggest mistake (too tight) made..**
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