Which tire patch or plug have you had success with?

[Matt-Guy]

So I know there was a poll and some healthy debate about patching/plugging vs. replacing tires. I read through it and saw some good info but with only 4k on my tires I am leaning towards a plug to get me through until the start of the next season. Anyone had experience with a store bought plug/patch? What was it called? I am trying to do this at work so I would prefer to not have to remove the rim/tire. Where did you get it (I live in the US and live close to three major auto parts stores). Did you have any issues? I saw plenty of posts of people saying they went thousands of miles but I never saw mention of a particular plug.

The back story is I got to work today and a co-worker came up and said "hey you know your rear tire is flat" so I went out and it was indeed flat. Spun the tire and looked for the source of the leak and an inch from the direct middle I found a nail in it. Not anywhere near the sidewall so I am not concerned about that, and it was in the tread line. Pulled it out smooth, guessing I had not ridden more than 5 or so miles because the head of the nail looked fine.

Called my insurance (progressive) and they said they would tow it up to 15 miles and charge 5 bucks each additional mile. I live 30 miles from work so I was looking at 75 bucks so that's a no go and the nearest shop was cycleworld and they won't patch or plug, just replace.

TL : DR
Want a plug/patch to fix a flat. What did you use and did it work? Did it hold up/air? How long did you go?

 

[GTPAddict]

If you end up like me, you'll have a hard time finding anyone to mount a patched tire (I would never plug one BTW, patch from the inside is the only way to go). I ended up just buying a new tire because of this.

 

[Andz]

I have used the only acceptable repair method on a bike tyre, namely the patch/plug from the inside. It looks like a giant thumb tack with a patch about an inch in diameter and a plug which goes in the hole. I have used it a couple of times on the rear and it has been fine until the tyre needed replacing due to wear.

 

[Tailgate]

Of course, this thread is going to attract a lot of controversy. Myself, I currently am running on a plugged rear tire (BT016, nail puncture, just like yours). The Camel, Monkey Grip, and, Slime plug kits seem utilize the same items. I, per the instructions (I first inflated the tire to max pressure with tool inserted in the hole), first roughed and reamed the nail hole with the supplied reaming tool, quickly coated the 2-3 inch rubber sticky strip with cement (as added adhesion insurance), inserted with the second tool per instructions 2/3 of the way, cut off excess. It holds air pressure as if it had never been plugged. I've always had good success with plugged tires. The kit (Slime) included a tube of cement but stated that it wasn't necessary but that one could coat the sticky strip for superior adhesion (which I did). I have found that a thicker ream tool for roughing up the hole works best for then a clean insertion of the plug strip. I''m on 1K miles plus now.

 

[Wildcat_drvr]

I picked up a industral staple in my back tire, had no luck getting a patch to hold. Used "SLIME", yea the green goo in a plastic bottle, Its been working like a champ for 5,000 miles now. Seems to help balance the tires too. If the hole isn't to big it works quite well. Good luck any way you do it! :rockon: Rich

 

[Matt-Guy]

Thanks for all the info everyone. I think what I might do is put a plug in it (like the slime kit), leave it at work with the plug overnight, if it holds air bring it home, if not put a can of slime in it, wait overnight again then bring it home. If neither works I will just have it towed down to cycleworld and I will pay $$$ for a new tire... I have called numerous shops and the ones that work on motorcycles wont patch only replace.

I don't want to be held hostage to a bike shop because its there with a flat, I would rather wait until I can get a decent deal and not be pressured.

Next question I guess is what tire? I have heard the stories on here about the CT2's shredding themselves and although it seems like a rare thing the way Michelin handled them makes me want to trust something else. Just don't know what that is.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The Steelman patch/plug combo, 1/8" is the way to go:

JSG381 - Steelman Tools

I used one on my FJR. You do need to remove the tire from the rim, get the inside of the tire smooth (like a bicycle tube) and insert from the inside out. Impossible to come out, IMHO, best possible fix as long as its not on the sidewall..

I have seen the Slime plugs work very well, but IMHO the Steelman is the way to go for a PERMANENT REPAIR. Its also what most automotive tire repair places use but the larger diameter...

 

[RJ2112]

I've used plugs on tires multiple times on motorcycles. Sticky rope type, some with rubber cement, some without. Most will last many thousands of miles. The last one I ran stayed solid until I wore the tread down enough to 'worry' the plug, and that started it leaking. the solution was to re-plug the same hole with a new sticky rope.

This was a Metzler ME880 that I had mounted on the FZ6, which I got more than 10,000 miles out of.

 

[SweaterDude]

only thing i have to add:

if you add some Black RTV glue to the patch job, it will help immensely.

the patch should just be used to get you home or to a location for replacement of the tire. riding a patch puts your life too much in the hands of a $1 piece of rubber and glue.

 

[RJ2112]

Next question I guess is what tire? I have heard the stories on here about the CT2's shredding themselves and although it seems like a rare thing the way Michelin handled them makes me want to trust something else. Just don't know what that is.

I'm sure it's obvious, but to cover that base, you'll need to pump up the tire after you plug it to assure the seal. If it's a straight, small hole in the tread block rather than a side wall plugs work quite well. The liability that shops want to avoid is due to the potential for internal damage to the tire carcass.

Shredded belts and the like. This happens a lot more with larger holes, and ones that have jagged edges -- a slice, rather than a straight puncture. If more than a very few strands of the belts are cut, the belt will develop more flex than it is supposed to, leading to localized heating which will weaken the tire.

If you have never tried it, get an old worn out tire, and try and cut through the thing. They are incredibly tough, when you try and cut across the grain. Vulcanized rubber welded into the weave of layers of nylon, aramid, and other synthetic fibers make for a very strong flexible structure.

Something like you describe, a simple straight in nail penetration is well within the capacity of a sticky rope type plug. As has been said, a plug from the inside is less likely to fail, as the seal is as far away from the tread blocks as possible. It's still subject to the same shearing forces, if the hole is oblong or too big......

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm sure it's obvious, but to cover that base, you'll need to pump up the tire after you plug it to assure the seal. If it's a straight, small hole in the tread block rather than a side wall plugs work quite well. The liability that shops want to avoid is due to the potential for internal damage to the tire carcass.

Shredded belts and the like. This happens a lot more with larger holes, and ones that have jagged edges -- a slice, rather than a straight puncture. If more than a very few strands of the belts are cut, the belt will develop more flex than it is supposed to, leading to localized heating which will weaken the tire.

If you have never tried it, get an old worn out tire, and try and cut through the thing. They are incredibly tough, when you try and cut across the grain. Vulcanized rubber welded into the weave of layers of nylon, aramid, and other synthetic fibers make for a very strong flexible structure.

Something like you describe, a simple straight in nail penetration is well within the capacity of a sticky rope type plug. As has been said, a plug from the inside is less likely to fail, as the seal is as far away from the tread blocks as possible. It's still subject to the same shearing forces, if the hole is oblong or too big......

+1 on the above...

My friend picked up a small nail on his rear tire on his new FJR with under 1,000 miles on the clock/tire. He ordered a new tire.

For S&G's, we plugged the flatened tire with one of the sticky ropes and it worked great, no leaks, held air. Easily installed too. We trimmed it and he kept it on the bike until he sold it. I might add he's a farily aggressive rider (in turns) and NEVER had a problem with the tire. (For road trips, this is what I carry with a portable air compressor).

As for the Michelin PR's shredding, it was the PR3 which from what I read was possibly due to excessive heat and it was manufactuered(I think) in Italy. It was here on the forum, do a search to confirm.

To my knowledge, there hasn't been any issues with the PR2, which I have and am very happy with the performance and life of it so far.

 

[Matt-Guy]

+1 on the above...

My friend picked up a small nail on his rear tire on his new FJR with under 1,000 miles on the clock/tire. He ordered a new tire.

For S&G's, we plugged the flatened tire with one of the sticky ropes and it worked great, no leaks, held air. Easily installed too. We trimmed it and he kept it on the bike until he sold it. I might add he's a farily aggressive rider (in turns) and NEVER had a problem with the tire. (For road trips, this is what I carry with a portable air compressor).

As for the Michelin PR's shredding, it was the PR3 which from what I read was possibly due to excessive heat and it was manufactuered(I think) in Italy. It was here on the forum, do a search to confirm.

To my knowledge, there hasn't been any issues with the PR2, which I have and am very happy with the performance and life of it so far.

I went back and read the post about the tire shredding and you are correct it was the PR3's. I know most corp's act the same so boycotting Michelin may be silly for their response to the PR3 complaints. But I don't know. It seems a lot of folk seem to like the PR2's.

I did plug the tire with the sticky rope technique at work last night around 6pm and when I got in at 9:30 today it was still at the same PSI I left it at so that was encouraging. I have money (I am cheap though) but for peace of mind I think I am just going to replace the rear and be done with it even though it should be fine.

Has anyone ever thought of putting the slime in their tires that you use before you get a flat so that if you hit a nail or something you dont have to worry about it deflating and getting you in trouble. Something like this SLIME – Worldwide Leader in Tire Care – Repairing a flat tire? Slime Tire & Tube Sealant » Catalog » Catalog Products » Slimepro Tire Sealant- OTR 1 gallon (10131)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I love my PR2's and once worn, I'll replace them with PR2's again... I believe the PR3's that shredded were made in one country (Italy maybe?). I haven't heard of any other Michelin problems....

Obviously a brand new tire is the saftest but its sometimes tough pitching a tire with a couple of hundred miles on it with a small hole in the middle. A plug to get me home (or leave the nail in, air up every couple of miles if not far from home) then combo patch/plug it. Cost me a couple of hours getting the tire off rim, do the permanent repair, re-assemble and be done with it...If the tires about worn out, I'd just get a new tire....

As for the Slime additive, I've seen the ads for it on TV but don't have any experiance with it...