stebel horn questions

danb

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Okay I'm probably asking allready answered questions but I've just bought a second hand stebel natillus air horn. I plugged it straight onto existing horn wires and results are brilliant but I gather that if I were to wire it through a relay it would be even louder. How much of a difference does this actually make?? I'm fairly ignorant on electronics so please enlighten me what this relay consists of. Surely I need to make sure I'm using the right cable so enough amps are drawn and how do you go about fixing the cables to the fuse and the battery terminals? Would appreciate some help with this asap. Thanks
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Okay I'm probably asking allready answered questions but I've just bought a second hand stebel natillus air horn. I plugged it straight onto existing horn wires and results are brilliant but I gather that if I were to wire it through a relay it would be even louder. How much of a difference does this actually make?? I'm fairly ignorant on electronics so please enlighten me what this relay consists of. Surely I need to make sure I'm using the right cable so enough amps are drawn and how do you go about fixing the cables to the fuse and the battery terminals? Would appreciate some help with this asap. Thanks

It likely won't be any louder but it draws way more current than your stock horn does.

It'll with time, burn up the horn button contacts and potentialy your wiring harness.

If you wire a relay in, it'll have a direct line to the battery (30 amp fuse I believe). You'd wire your original horn wires into the relay as the TRIGGER SWITCH. Thus, the horn gets full voltage but NOT thru your light duty button. The button will activate it but the relay takes the brunt of the current (around 18 amps)..

You can buy a wiring kit that makes wiring it much easier:

http://www.bikerhiway.com/universal-plugnplay-wiring-harness-for-motorcycle-air-horns-p-921.html


http://pirateslair.net/Nautilus.htm

Here's a wiring diagram: http://www.bikerhiway.com/universal-plugnplay-wiring-harness-for-motorcycle-air-horns-p-921.html , Its the image on the left of two
 
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Andz

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I mounted mine under the tank in front of the battery, I made a little cover to protect it from water and it works fine.

IMG_5363.jpg


IMG_5365.jpg
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Thanks a lot this makes it simpler...so where did you fix your relay on the bike?

I have my relay velcroed (industrial), under the left rear inner fairing (the LS that you have to remove to lift the tank) for fairly easy access.

The bracket holding the horn itself is homemade, 1/8' aluminum. The main hot wires runs across, thru a 110 shielded cable for extra protection.

You can see the 30 amp fuse coming off the power block going into my harness. The other wires going into the harness (the harness is zip tied to the bracket) are for two different GPS'. The main power block is wired direct to the battery.
 
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agf

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I have the relay in the lh pod with other relays, I put it there as I also have a tender connection that sits in the under seat storage, so it meant I could get to all of it without lifting the tank unless I have to rejig the main extra power source from the battery.
having a little issue with my stebel at the moment but I think if I have to I'll bite the bullet and buy another one as the sound is music to the ears (of pesky cagers that need a reminder that there are others on the road)
 

Circuitrider

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I have my relay velcroed (industrial), under the left rear inner fairing (the LS that you have to remove to lift the tank) for fairly easy access.

The bracket holding the horn itself is homemade, 1/8' aluminum. The main hot wires runs across, thru a 110 shielded cable for extra protection.

You can see the 30 amp fuse coming off the power block going into my harness. The other wires going into the harness (the harness is zip tied to the bracket) are for two different GPS'. The main power block is wired direct to the battery.

I just installed mine much like this. I didn't have time to wire the fuse box yet though. I just followed the directions from the wiring kit and she fired right up. My ears are still ringing.

I have to fabricate something under the seat to make a level spot for the fuse box. It is a marine one but is too big for the fairing to hide. Anyway, thanks for the pics and write up! Most helpful!
 

lukaledoux

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I have to say, after trying my own install, I am amazed at your custom aluminum work. I jimmy-rigged mine with a couple steel elbow plates, using whatever screws I had lying around. Doesn't look nearly as nice but it works. Thanks for the tip about height, it fits right under the black fairing insert, which actually helps to keep it from moving around. :thumbup:

You'll notice a small rubber insert in between the horn and the plate to fill the gap. I bought the wiring kit as well so plugging it all in afterwards was really quick.



I have my relay velcroed (industrial), under the left rear inner fairing (the LS that you have to remove to lift the tank) for fairly easy access.

The bracket holding the horn itself is homemade, 1/8' aluminum. The main hot wires runs across, thru a 110 shielded cable for extra protection.

You can see the 30 amp fuse coming off the power block going into my harness. The other wires going into the harness (the harness is zip tied to the bracket) are for two different GPS'. The main power block is wired direct to the battery.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I have to say, after trying my own install, I am amazed at your custom aluminum work. I jimmy-rigged mine with a couple steel elbow plates, using whatever screws I had lying around. Doesn't look nearly as nice but it works. Thanks for the tip about height, it fits right under the black fairing insert, which actually helps to keep it from moving around. :thumbup:

You'll notice a small rubber insert in between the horn and the plate to fill the gap. I bought the wiring kit as well so plugging it all in afterwards was really quick.

Excellent, that'll work!!! :thumbup:

I should have posted previously, when I made that from scratch, as one piece, I started with a cardboard template. Cut, trim, etc, then eventually transfer to the one solid 1/8" piece of aluminum.
 
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