Adirondack Jack
Don't call me " Jun ior&a
This 12V power point mod is covered more than once in the Forum so I won't belabor the issue except to cover my own particular details with a couple of pics attached.
I've been wanting to do this for some time but what was really holding me back was how to make the connection. Straight to the battery? Or use a relay? After dissecting the issues of power on with the key vs power on continuous I opted to hook up direct so it's hot all the time. My reasons for this decision were:
A) It's VERY unlikely charging my cell phone or GPS (even overnight) would drain the battery. I don't intend to plug anything in while the bike's running. I'm more apt to plug in during a break in riding when the bike is off.
B) I am always a bit hesitant to tap in to an existing wiring harness even though I know there are plenty of places to do it. In my mind it just creates a weak point that my come back to bite you.
I made a quick trip to the local NAPA store. Power outlet, various connectors, in-line fuse holder, fuses = 16 bucks. I had extra wire and shrink tubes in the toolbox.
I raised the tank, disconnecting the 2 plugs so I could really get it out of the way. I removed the small piece of inner fairing on the right side for good access but left the inner dash in place. I clamped a block of wood to the plastic dash fairing and drilled a 7/8" hole to accept the plug. The fairing is ABS plastic and unless it's cold it's really not too susceptible to cracking from a speed-bore bit. It drills nicely.
I left the airbox in place and the battery in place and just disconnected the battery and got the cables out of the way. One of the really sweet tips from the Forum is to make sure you shim up the battery nuts under the bolt holes with something (I used foam wedges) so you're not trying to find that nut later. It brings it right up to the top of the clamp bracket.
I installed the plug and tightened it down. It's very accessible for the plug connections after the fact.
Pos. side- I clamped a ring connector to the fuse holder (it's close to the battery- a few inched) and another connection after the fuse holder and shrink wrapped both. This is the wire that clips to the pos. terminal of the power plug. I ran the wire through the frame after taping a loop of slack that tucks in behind the fairing. I taped any possible places where vibration in contact with the frame might rub a wire bare.
Neg. side- Ring connector on one end. Clip to the ground of the power point on the other end. Shrink wrap. Also run through the frame.
I re-installed the battery connections with the new ring terminals in place, inserted a 10 amp fuse and checked the power point. Green light. Good to go.
Lowered and bolted the tank after re-connecting the plugs, making sure the vent tubes were not kinked (another Forum tip). Put the fairing back together, seat back on. Finito!
Total time that the clock on the FZ was disconnected? Exactly 1 hour. I could have done it quicker but was being very careful to get it right the first time.
I'm a pretty fair with wrenches and wires but if you're not....This is probably one of the easiest mods you could ever attempt. It looks clean and the rubber cap will make it as weatherproof as I'll need it to be. :thumbup:
I've been wanting to do this for some time but what was really holding me back was how to make the connection. Straight to the battery? Or use a relay? After dissecting the issues of power on with the key vs power on continuous I opted to hook up direct so it's hot all the time. My reasons for this decision were:
A) It's VERY unlikely charging my cell phone or GPS (even overnight) would drain the battery. I don't intend to plug anything in while the bike's running. I'm more apt to plug in during a break in riding when the bike is off.
B) I am always a bit hesitant to tap in to an existing wiring harness even though I know there are plenty of places to do it. In my mind it just creates a weak point that my come back to bite you.
I made a quick trip to the local NAPA store. Power outlet, various connectors, in-line fuse holder, fuses = 16 bucks. I had extra wire and shrink tubes in the toolbox.
I raised the tank, disconnecting the 2 plugs so I could really get it out of the way. I removed the small piece of inner fairing on the right side for good access but left the inner dash in place. I clamped a block of wood to the plastic dash fairing and drilled a 7/8" hole to accept the plug. The fairing is ABS plastic and unless it's cold it's really not too susceptible to cracking from a speed-bore bit. It drills nicely.
I left the airbox in place and the battery in place and just disconnected the battery and got the cables out of the way. One of the really sweet tips from the Forum is to make sure you shim up the battery nuts under the bolt holes with something (I used foam wedges) so you're not trying to find that nut later. It brings it right up to the top of the clamp bracket.
I installed the plug and tightened it down. It's very accessible for the plug connections after the fact.
Pos. side- I clamped a ring connector to the fuse holder (it's close to the battery- a few inched) and another connection after the fuse holder and shrink wrapped both. This is the wire that clips to the pos. terminal of the power plug. I ran the wire through the frame after taping a loop of slack that tucks in behind the fairing. I taped any possible places where vibration in contact with the frame might rub a wire bare.
Neg. side- Ring connector on one end. Clip to the ground of the power point on the other end. Shrink wrap. Also run through the frame.
I re-installed the battery connections with the new ring terminals in place, inserted a 10 amp fuse and checked the power point. Green light. Good to go.
Lowered and bolted the tank after re-connecting the plugs, making sure the vent tubes were not kinked (another Forum tip). Put the fairing back together, seat back on. Finito!
Total time that the clock on the FZ was disconnected? Exactly 1 hour. I could have done it quicker but was being very careful to get it right the first time.
I'm a pretty fair with wrenches and wires but if you're not....This is probably one of the easiest mods you could ever attempt. It looks clean and the rubber cap will make it as weatherproof as I'll need it to be. :thumbup:
