So guys, I found problem maybe.
please see videos.
I disconected spark plug caps from #4 to #1 cylinder - engine went on three cylinder. I stoped at #2 valve. When I disconected spark plug cap on #2 cylinder, engine sound was constant. So I exchanged #2 #3 wires and than I disconected #3 cap...
Thank you very much. :)
It will be hard get this tool to spark plug holes, because there is small space.
I will make video with each cylinder, just i must wait for tester.
I am thinking.. Is it possible that problem is in bad regulator, or stator and charging system?
as for measuring temps - Yes, I did measuring many times and bike was sputtering all the time.
It is hard describe this situation. I am thinking about it already 2 months. The engine does not run correctly during idle speed, idle speed is fluctuate, all the time - engine is not running...
I meant this screw. (blue circle).
1 cylinder cooler: It was bad measure, because I first measured temps from left side of bike. I measured temp of #1 cylinder from outer side, and there was lower temp than #2 and #3 pipes and #4 from inner side. When I went measure from right side of bike...
no, boots are glued on air box from factory. You have it too. This glue was cracked and I gave there silicone... It is good now, 100% sealed...
- I tried start bike without air box and sprayed brake cleaner - no sound change.
- I changed all intake hoses and TBS hoses...
I adjusted TBS screws...
Thank you.
Is it possible start bike without airbox? I can connect temp sensor. I would like spray brake cleaner around throttle body boots and another intake hoses.
- I checked air box boots, there was any glue, so I removed glue (because it was not tight) and I applied black silicone (for...
Hi,
1. valves adjusted - intake valves were 0.20 - 0.24, but left exhaust valve #4 was 0.38, ... Now, all valves are okay and adjusted!!
2. Carbon from intake valves - cleaned.
3. I had disassembled throttle body (where are 4 air (needles) screws). Needles were very dirty. Also I disassembled...
Yes, it is not good new for me. I am thinking few days how can I clean them without remove cylinder head..
1. I will to pour Techron mixed with petrol (e.g. 1:5, or 1:10) into closed valves.
2. After 10-15 minutes I will try scrape carbon via brush. (I hope that valves will tight and liquid...
I am posting photos of intake valves. You can see how are dirty. Carbon is on all valves.
****Better view is on second photo.
Question:
When I have open intake valves on #1 cylinder, another intake valves should be complete closed?
You can see on the second photo that valves on #2 cylinder...
I read about CCT, i do not understand installation steps. (already after adjusted valve clearance)
When is CCT removed, I need turn the tensioner rod fully clockwise with a thin screwdriver - whole rod will be in CCT housing. I will install the gasket and the timing chain tensioner onto the...
Hi,
thank you for your reply.
I did not timing. Just today I removed valve cover and I found this "mistake".
I read this topic, because there is the same problem as I have. When I am reading #9 post it seems complicated for me. I have to read it more times (i am not native english...
Reply to:
Also, I'm not quite sure what you mean by quote:
"0.15 scale is accurate for exhaust valves... Something between 0.15 and 0.20.. 0.25 is too large"
If you intend to keep your valves tighter than spec's, okay, it's your bike..
= No, i meant that my valve clearance is between 0.15 and...
yes, i have... I am reading everything from service manual...
0.15 scale is accurate for exhaust valves... Something between 0.15 and 0.20.. 0.25 is too large - I put it there, but with more force. And 0.30 is impossible.
Intake clearances are within specs.
And this is strange, why it is...
Thank you.
As i mentioned in post above. I have only scales with 5 hundreds. 0.05, 0.10, 0.15, 0.20 etc...
It was too hard use 0.25 scale on exhaust valves, so 0.20 is maybe accurate, maybe little below 0.20.. hard to say.
I measured following values:
#1
Intake: 0.15 0.15
Exhaust: 0.20 0.20...
Answers are RED.
(1) Crank set on TDC, (compression stroke #1 cyl), use the line next to the "T", get that dead nuts lined up with the mark on the block... That is your starting point.
= Crank is set on TDC (line next to T-mark against line on crankcase) - #1 cyl.
(2) Exhaust is next.. That...