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Update Turns out it was the rectifier, mine doesn’t charge above 13.1 on rev, but charges to 13.8 on idle, basically the voltage drop as soon as i twist the throttle.

FZ6N 2008, It has a weird power loss at around 8K RPM all the way to redline (sometime power does come back for a split second), doesn’t happen if the bike’s cold, only when it’s at operating temperature, It ran fine 2 weeks ago and I didn’t replace any part during that time, no vacuum leak...

Currently waiting for a new stud and bolt to arrive, will reduce to 55 to 60ft-lbs this time, Thank you for the recommendation, cheers!

It was 72 ft-lbs, according to the manual, I did some research, some people also stripped theirs as well.

Hello, I was working on the rear sprocket and “accidentally” stripped one of the stud+nut on the drive hub, I just learnt that i’m not supposed to follow the recommended spec on the Yamaha Service Manual. Question is, what is the torque spec that I should use? I don’t want to strip another one. 🙁

I was intended to initiate a discussion regarding this specific ticking noise. As the FZ6 is relatively rare in my region, I have not had the opportunity to compare it with other units. I am uncertain whether this sound is a standard characteristic of the model or an indication that a valve...

UPDATE : I managed to fix both switches, Left side was easy, I just tilted the black plastic thingy to the side and spray some alcohol after about 10mn of wiggling it back and forth and side to side it comes back to life, for the right side I had to pry the surrounding plastic open, took...

I see that it has different shape, but as long as the dimensions are identical it should be alright, Thank you!

Thank you, I'll look into it!

I'm trying to find replacement for these switches for my FZ6-N 2008, Both are not working, TPS will arrive soon and looking to go into diag mode on the cluster to test and adjust it. Purchase links or advices are much appreciated, thank you!