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I did pull out the buckets and nothing seems abnormal. First thing that came to my thought was that a shim got tilted and was raising the bucket a bit, leading to binding, but this wasn't the case. Yes, I did install new valve seals. I assembled the head around 2 months ago but I remember that...

I can't press any of the intake valves by thumb. I did try to tap them in a bit with a rubber mallet but that didn't help draw any conclusions- the issue is in the last 1/3 of insertion, the first 1/3 seems to go in as it should. The head was cleaned using air, a toothbrush and various...

Most likely, yes. But didn't manage to spin the intake cam by itself- it required a lot of force and I was afraid I might put too much force in places that weren't design to take that much force. But since by themselves the exhaust cam spins freely and the crank spins freely, I'm thinking that...

Did some more checking- Firstly I put the crank at TDC and the cams 180 degress apart (both marks facing on the inside)- that's the same position as if I started right and went 360 on the crank. SAME binding spot. Looked through the ports and at the binding point all valves are up (apart from...

Here are the pictures. Only screwed in the first cap before taking the picture so all lobes can be clearly seen. Noticed one more thing- the intake has "IN" written on it and exhaust the "EX". The cams were positioned like this every single time I tired to fit them.

It does (it's the upper pic). "I" to the far left and "E" to far the right

Thanks for the pic. I thought that white paint was done by the previous owner. Now I'm even more sure that I reinstalled the cams correctly...

This is probably the next move after I try starting with everything offset... But still, if it turns out it's not the valves resisting the push in- what else could it be?

The cams don't look like in your picture (in picture the intake one is missing that middle ring, while both of mine have that ring), but I can say with 200% certainty that they are in the same position they were when the engine ran and also rotated freely by wrench. I've rotated the crank with...

So... no luck with the buckets... all of them are perfectly round and straight. Even tried to install the old chain... same thing, getting stuck in that point.

Got another idea- would it be possible that one of the buckets seated crookedly?

I started on the exact same position, both the bolts and timing marks are in the same location, please see the upper pic from the collage in post #264

Yes, the last time I redid the installation of the cams I did the following (in the listed order) -line up the crank to the marking -fit and line up the exhaust cam -make sure the chain is the tightest possible -tighten down the exhaust cam -fit and line up the intake cam -make sure the chain...

Yes, it spins with 2 finger on the wrench ps: the chain isn't getting jammed against the side rails of the guides either

The only larger clearance is on the intake for #4, both being 0.26-0.27mm (ref values are 0.13-0.20).

Mine is a Shindengen FH020A (allegedly) coming off a 2013 BMW R1200 something, so it's not a series one. Don't think mosfet shunt is comparable to the normal (thyristor?) shunt- it's night and day difference, both cooler, and more stable. To my research, I only found 1 documented failure for a...

I've redone everything for the 20th time now. There's around six hours fiddling with this timing crap. I'm 100% that every single time I did this the crank and cams all were at the right markings. Now, I've made extra sure that from crank to exhaust cam and exhaust cam to intake there were...

End of season update : (did about 9000km/5700mi) The bike ran great. The only issues I had were broken MCs, where the seals gave up the ghost after bleeding the braided lines. The front one failed on the spot, while the rear one waited until I was 2000km away from home and gave a fully soft...

Thanks guys! Should I tighten the exhaust cam before passing the chain to the intake cam? So the issue was too much slack in the chain, or what?

Crap, only now I read this. I forgot that cyl #1 and #4 are 360 degrees apart, so while the crank was at the correct timing mark, it might have just as well been indicating TDC for #4 instead of #1. Hope I didn't bend any valves... I'll try again tomorrow, this time with a screwdriver inserted...