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I leave my hat on for not gutting it and selling the bike and parts separately. :) I'm sure there are some people on here that want your farkles! +1 on "what did you buy to replace it?"

You probably don't even need to change the oil. T6 is great synthetic oil.

Oh, the taillight is just one I picked up on CL. I don't think it's anything special, but it gets the job done. Haven't had anyone rear end me yet. :)

Or the headlights! You know what you need to do...

A 900rpm idle is too low. Should be ~1300rpm once the bike is at operating temperature.

Like most things, I say you get what you pay for. I originally had a set of four signals of a very similar design from the Two Wheels when they used to sell a good number of LED signals. When I got caught in the rain (once) water must have leaked into one of the the rear signals and caused a...

I guess the previous owner must have already painted the side guards black. I don't see any silver near the radiator. So far the dip is holding up well. I noticed a burning plastic smell after my last ride, though it is subsiding. I think it must have been the dip burning off that was...

Yeah, I seen you around here. :) I thought about doing the entire can black, but this was easy to do with the pipes still on the bike. I may do the bar clamp next. The stock piece is looking at little ragged. Don't think I could get away with doing the rear sets, as good as they would look...

Here are a couple profile shots.

Thought I bought the retrofit kit last November, I didn't get around to doing anything with it until now. Our own forum member, FIZZER6, pulled the housing apart, painted the shrouds and reflectors black, mounted the projectors, and sealed them back up. I put the finished product on the bike...

Ahhh, the truth will set you free. :) Now I get it. Whichever route you take, pick up an electronic flasher relay when you move to LED signals: ELFR-1 Electronic LED Flasher Relay with OEM Connector | Custom LED It'll keep you from having to wire in resistors with the LED signals, and it's...

Still not sure what option 1 accomplishes. I could see you replacing the OEM mirrors with LED mirrors, but there's no need to move the signals. They are the same. The red/amber combo signals in rear would give you a bit more brake light visibility, but as I mentioned it would require...

You'll need to trace the circuit back from the lights and look for any breaks in the insulation. The tail light and turn signals are relatively easy to get to.

Depends on whether you can find a used set of fairings. What year/color is your bike? Not too many people repair plastic, though you may be able to have a body shop bondo and paint the tank. Not sure if that will exceed the cost of a new tank from the dealer, however.

Pretty sure the front and rear signals are the same part. No need to replace the rear with the front ones. I would not want my turn signals to flash when I hit the brakes since the turn signals are yellow. You'd want to buy turn signals that have red brake lights incorporated into them that...

I'll take one when I get home from work today.

They're similar, but these are the signals: 2X 16 LED Motorcycle motorbike Turn Signals Indicators Blinker Amber Light Black | eBay

I've been experimenting with plastidip lately. The results have not always come out well or held up as well as I thought, but it's cheap, fun, and generally easily reversible for going back to stock. I've always thought Two Brothers had the coolest looking exhaust, but I went with Scorpions...

Held makes awesome gloves. I have a pair of Namibs for the street and a pair of Titans for the track. Wish they used kangaroo on these as well.

Single viscosity oil like that is typically used in small engines like lawnmowers where the operating conditions are pretty constant. I think 10w30 or 20w40 is what the manual calls for. Though you're not likely to damage your engine with SAE30 oil, Rotella T6 5w40 is a good oil, cheap, and...