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Did you post this on a Facebook FZ6 Group recently? It sounds familiar. I think I suggested checking the Starter Relay by raising the fuel tank, then lifting the relay off the top of the battery and using a screwdriver or pliers with insulated handles to short circuit across the B and M...

Have you checked continuity on the handlebar Kill Switch? I had a fault with mine that I fixed by stripping down the switch and cleaning the contacts, after which it was fine.

Look at where the Tilt Sensor connects to the loom, unplug it and bridge it with a piece of wire to see if that's the cause. You might also want to check connectivity on the handlebar and side stand kill switches.

I'd agree with the above suggestions, take it off, clean it up and repaint with Hammerite or similar. Also, it might be worth replacing the Jubilee Clips as they look a bit rough too.

Not sure, I just bought a set from Amazon :)

@grcamna7 - If you've not removed/ replaced the airbox before, make sure you've got a set of *long* allen key wrenches, because the bolts that hold it to the throttle bodies are buried deep underneath it. Loosen them off, but DO NOT remove them! Also apply some Red Rubber Grease to the...

:( Hope you're ok. You can find the part numbers here: https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/600-MOTO But getting replacements for broken fairings etc is pretty difficult these days without paying silly money. I've heard of companies like Power Bronze or on AliExpress which may...

It looks nice, but my concern would be what would happen to your knee if you had an Off...

Probably not if they've used a screwdriver through the casing to try to lever it off...!

The rear axle requires 120 Nm. When I do mine, it's based on the following: 1) 120 Nm is the torque caused by a mass of 12kg at the end of a 1 metre bar (assuming gravity is 10 m/s^2) 12 x 10 x 1 = 120Nm 2) So, if the bar was 0.5 metres long, you'd need a mass of 24kg (12 / 0.5) 24 x 10 x...

Sounds good

BTW a quick and dirty check of the chain tension is to put your finger where it says "Drive Chain Slack" in that picture above and try to push it against the swingarm. If it goes easily (or won't touch at all), it's respectively either too loose or too tight and you'll need to adjust it. If...

When you come to put the new cable in, use tape or a cable tie to attach the lever end of the new cable to the clutch actuator arm end of the old one, because it will make it much easier to thread it through the gap between the frame and the engine on the left side! Also, whilst you're doing...

Run your finger between the teeth on the rear sprocket and see if you can feel a "lip" or a "hook" instead of a smooth curve. If it isn't smooth, you need to replace the chain and sprockets as a set. You should have a tool set in a bag underneath the seat that is all you need to adjust the...

Before cranking it with the starter, I'd use the bolt under the cam chain cover to turn it over by hand a few times to make sure that everything moves ok without effort. BTW don't forget that the Haynes manual recommends that, following an engine overhaul, ie with a dry engine and a new filter...

I'm in the UK too and get roughly 200 miles (full tank to reserve) in the summer and 175 in winter due to the different fuel formulations used. I fill it on the side stand until the bottom of the metal "strainer" under the fuel cap is completely covered by petrol. I keep the display on "Trip...

First thing: Look online for videos of how to set the preload on the rear shock so you have the correct free sag and rider sag (note: changing the preload on the front suspension is trickier as you may need to adjust the spacers in the fork tubes) Secondly, if your bike has a fairing, there...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I understand, penetrating oils such as PB Blaster/ Liquid Wrench/ GT 85/ WD40/ Plusgas et al are all low viscosity, intended to free up stuck parts, dissolve rust and get things moving again, but they're not designed for long term lubrication. Certainly...

If the cables aren't moving freely through the tubes, you can try lubricating them, but I'd consider it more sensible to replace them as there could be wear on the inside that you can't see. If they do move freely, reattach the cables to the throttle body pulley and you should then be able to...

First thing I would suggest would be to detach the cables from the throttle end and from the throttle body linkage at the engine end and see whether the problem is with the grip, the cables or the actual bodies themselves. Once you've isolated the cause, then you can work on a fix.