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Comment from a Wasp expert on the BBC's "Infinite Monkey Cage" podcast: (Starts at 17'32" ) * * * * * "The colony grows exponentially, and all those workers are your pest controllers in your garden. They're foraging away. They're eating your caterpillars on your cabbages and your aphids on...

https://www.usaautosupply.com/products/autosol-metal-polish (first search result, other suppliers are available :) )

Definitely not! I would strongly recommend a complete strip down and check...

I used Autosol and a Dremel rotary polishing tool. DO NOT use Harpic 10 (despite what people say). Yes, it will, briefly, get your headers nice and shiny, but the Hydrochloric Acid will damage the stainless steel and cause it to corrode faster afterwards.

As far as I can see from the Haynes Manual, it's to check the ABS is functioning by you holding the brake lever and pedal whilst the pump pushes back against them.

On my FZ6 ABS there's a test facility that can trigger the ABS function. Also, of course, you can go out for a ride on a wet day, get up to eg 20mph, then stamp hard on the rear brake to lock the wheel at which point you should feel the ABS cut in.

The FZ6-R is a different bike, so the fairings aren't compatible. Try bike breakers/ scrapyards, although the fairings are generally the first bits to get broken in an accident, so getting replacements is always difficult. I have seen posts on FB where people have sourced similar bits from...

The starter relay doesn't just turn the engine over, it also passes power to the ECU etc. One part can be working OK, but the rest isn't working. Also, have you tried push-starting the bike?

Have you checked the Starter Relay? The "crank but not fire" sounds like what happened on my bike when the relay started to go faulty. Try lifting it off the battery clamp and using a screwdriver or pliers with insulated handles to bridge across the B and M terminals. If the bike starts, you...

I'd suggest running it and checking the temperature of the header pipes. If one of them is colder than the others, that will probably be the one misfiring. If so, try swapping the plug leads from 1 and 4 to 2 and 3 and see if the colder header pipe moves which would point to a problem with...

When I replaced my OEM fork springs with Hyperpro ones, I didn't have any fork-seal drivers, but a piece of PVC tubing did the job! Also, FYI, the Hyperpro oil is IIRC, 15W. I only weigh about 63kg and, especially in cold weather in the UK (under about 15 degrees centigrade), I found it a bit...

IIRC a properly damped set of forks should bounce once, then settle, ie you push down on them, they rebound to slightly higher than they were, then recover their original position. If they rebound more than once, there's definitely an issue as that will have negative effects on the handling...

If they said it would fit my bike, but it doesn't, I'd send it back for a refund. No way would I start grinding bits off!

You need to remove the right handlebar switch gear. There's two Allen bolts underneath, remove them (note that one's longer than the other), then open up the switch gear and you'll find the Kill Switch and the wires that connect to it. Check the KS components for corrosion and clean them up...

Having had a look at the Haynes Manual, it seems to be a difference between ABS and non-ABS models. Probably because the ABS models have the pump underneath the seat as well, so they needed to find somewhere else to put the reservoir.

My 2006 S1 with ABS has the coolant reservoir BEHIND the headers

It may have been registered later, but that's definitely an S1, built in 2004-2006. The S1 has twin piston sliding front brake calipers instead of the improved four piston versions from the S2. Also the engine control unit was remapped and an O2 sensor added in the exhaust to improve fuelling...

If the instrument cluster is circular with an LCD rev counter, and the rear foot pegs are welded on, it's an S1. If there's a separate rev counter and instrument display, and the rear footpegs bolt on, it's an S2.

O sigortayı çıkarıp içine biraz WD40 kontak temizleyici sıkardım, çünkü böyle bir şey olmamalıydı. Google Translate'i kullanmaya devam etmek zorunda kalmamak için her iki dili de ekliyorum! [I would pull that fuse and spray in some WD40 Contact Cleaner as that shouldn't be happening Putting...

If you can get it running, check the output from the stator and the regulator/ rectifier. If they're faulty, that can kill a battery. Also put a Drop Tester on the battery and check the Cold Cranking Amps. What is the idle speed set at? It should be between 1250 and 1350 rpm.