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Lol at powermans post. I agree. As for your problem, you can remove the SHIFTER LEVER by the allen/hex bolt at the pivot point, and then unscrewing the nut to disconnect the lever from the rod that connects the lever to the shaft at the transmission. I had to replace both the footpeg and the...

I can't comment on track days, but a few things to consider are like Cali rider said, steering head, tire pressure, and also wheel bearings. If it feels like there's absolutely no resistance when you turn the wheel from left to right, and just barely pushing on the handlebar makes the bike turn...

It seems like a lot of people have been posting lately about problems with their bikes after sitting for a long time. In most of the cases the fuel system is clogged up and the tank is rusted over inside. Condensation can also form in the motor and exhaust and make it difficult to start. After...

The honeycomb design is the same as "high flow" cats in cars. It's not really restrictive, compared to a regular converter.

2004-2006 were the S1 version. 2007-2009 were the S2, main differences being updated fairing, swingarm design, brake calipers, and extra cats in the headers along with an O2 sensor. An S2 would be preferable, but either are good bikes. Goodluck!

Assuming you didn't touch the valves and just checked them, first step would be adjusting throttle cable free play(things don't like to be tight on these bikes) to factory spec. Second would be checking fuel supply and vent lines. Also did you remove any vacuum lines from the throttle bodies?

I would also suggest that if you're going to block off the AIS instead of completely removing it, to disconnect the electrical connector from the AIS valve so it's not opening and closing all the time for no reason.

You're gonna need R6 OR 07+ FZ6 calipers to go with the forks, the 04-06 calipers won't work(plus they suck) Good luck on the mod, it's worth it

Stainless steel braided lines will work fine whether they say FZ6 or R6.

This (most commonly) is the sound of the Air Injection System working. It injects air into the exhaust stream during off idle conditions and when it combines with the unburnt fuel at the hot catalytic converter, it combusts making the popping sound. Essentially it's an emissions thing.

I'm sorry but 170? If you want to go that fast(assuming on a track and you're not dumb enough to do this on a public road), you're gonna need a liter bike. The FZ6 with stock power and stock gearing can barely hit 140. There just simply isn't enough power. With hearing changes, you can hit...

I just got 4 new ngk iridium plugs (ebay, $30 free shipping!) and on the box was a sticker that said "WARNING: ATTEMPTING TO REGAP THESE PLUGS WILL DAMAGE THE ELECTRODE"

The extra HP is nice but a good dynotune will also give you a better powerband and throttle response.

Do you have a speedohealer? Those numbers sound kind of off if you do.

I went -1, +2 and it adds about 1,000RPM at any given speed. I'd imagine just -1 would add about 500-600RPM. I'm about to go 17/48(close to 16/46) because on the highway 8000RPM is just annoying.

I was gonna get an STi but I couldn't afford 30k. So I bought a Civic Si instead. Not as good but still hell of a car. LSD in the front means assload of traction in the front, but the back slides like a mofo.

It's more likely oil in the combustion chamber than gas in the oil. Everytime my bike's been tipped over, it would smoke and burn oil that got spilled into the combustion chamber for a minute or so.

Those are awesome! I love your whole setup including the taillight. I might have to order both of those. Only negative side is that if you ever drop or lay your bike down those signals are toast, but they're cheap enough.

The lumpy idle can be caused by many things, but mine was caused by a faulty cam chain tensioner. I installed a manual one and the idle is nearly dead set now.