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Good point! Can’t imagine the hassle of going back and forth to a shop, potentially arguing, being without the bike for days on end.... no thanks. ...and I’m happy to report I averaged 48 MPG on my last tank. (4.9L/100km for you, Ben!) As an aside, I’m seriously mulling over an amazing deal...

First guess is an air leak in a fitting or connection. Does the fluid rise stop? Or does it get sucked all the way up the tube?

It appears you hit the nail on the head. I'm dumbfounded how it could have happened...but cam chain was off a tooth. I re-adjusted and put everything back together. Time will tell about the MPG, but I am certain it will improve. On startup the idle was way high (like 1900 RPM, since I...

I believe so, been riding with it this way for awhile so can’t really be sure what’s real and what’s in my head. Throttle snatch was reduced, and it pulls more linearly, especially in 3rd and 4th gears. I’ll have to reinstall the OEM and go for a spin to really see the difference though!

He must have changed his shipping policy. That’s who I (and others in the forum) bought from. COVID related? Keep looking, maybe you’ll find another seller. I may end up removing mine soon and can sell to you cheap. Contemplating pulling the trigger on a Tracer900. If so I’ll return the...

I’ve always averaged close to 5L/100km. Dropped to 6-6.5 immediately following the valve adjustment. It’s not a huge deal really, bike runs fine; would just like to find out how I screwed up!

...Air box and battery tray and coils.... and that damn rubber mat. The mat is what I dread most!

Ran through 3 gallons today. 39 MPG, slight increase due to highway miles. Apparently resetting ECU had no effect (thanks anyway Cliff!). Next I’ll verify timing... and clearances while the valve cover is off. Anyone ever try to get the valve cover off by just removing radiator? Only need...

-Verified plugs are in the TB sync hoses. -disconnected battery - verified TB’s fully seated, clamps are tight. I’ll reattach the battery later tonight, ride the heck out of her tomorrow and see if rich condition/ MPG’s are better. If no change, I’ll verify timing is correct. Will report back...

Thanks for the replies, sorry for the delay. Was spreading mulch all day! To answer some questions: -Bike starts normally... RPM’s at 1100. After a slight delay RPM’s jump higher, return to 1100 after a couple of minutes. (Not sure if it’s just me... but the delay before going to higher RPM’s...

I adjusted the exhaust valves a couple of weeks ago, 5 of 8 were OOS tight, others were close. After adjustment, lash was middle of the spec. link to forum post (#87) --> Valve adjustment Rode through a tank of fuel, calculated thirty something MPG's. Couldn't be right, I thought. Performed...

I was trying to adjust idle while the manometer was still connected to all four lines per procedure. I've got it all buttoned up with the blockers in. I'll head back out and try to adjust idle again. Update: Finally got out riding today. After warm I was able to adjust idle up to 1420 or so...

All done. I was way out of sync. After adjustment, close enough! Much smoother idle, no more hesitation on launch. Weird after-effect though: after sync, I can only adjust idle to 1280. I can go lower, all the way down to 800 or so. But 1280 is now Max idle.

I have an '05. And I have the OEM touring windscreen. You're correct, it just moves the problem up higher. However, I use it in the cold months to keep the chill off of me. Yes, I get some buffeting on my helmet, but keeps my body out of the wind on those cold commutes. (I'm 6'1.) When it's...

The stock chain is sealed. You can examine it for yourself...look for the black o-rings in your chain.

Maybe start your own thread for this item? Just a thought.

Just looked the Carbtune pro up. With the current exchange rate dollars to pounds... could have one bought and shipped for $80! Since I’ve already ordered the home made stuff, I’ll give it a shot. Just need it to work once.

Just ordered the parts to build one of these. I believe my 2005 S1 has never had a throttle body sync performed. I bought used with 10K miles, now sitting at 53K miles. I did the valve adjustment a couple weeks ago. Runs like a top, but hesitates a little going from full stop to full go...

Manual just needs to be checked periodically for proper tension; nothing wrong with it. Some guys I know will rip out the auto tensioner day 1 of ownership and replace with manual. (I still use my ACCT, full disclosure). New OEM will set you back a cool $100.

Also, ensure that you plugged in both electrical connectors under the tank properly. Pretty sure I had the blinking fuel gauge once when I forgot to reconnect.