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First, get the crankshaft dead nuts on the mark. Next, get the all slack out of the chain to the EXHUST CAM, lined up on the mark- That's now good. (any slight longer indicates chain stretch or sprocket wear). One tooth off one way or the other will BE VERY NOTICIBLE... Next...

The cranking W/O plugs to build up oil pressure is good-20 seconds total I'd think should be fine as you've lubed everything going together. Your not breaking in rings, really just new bearings which don't require break in (already "passed" clearance checks). Once started, check for any...

Video looks fine. Your probably ok re the torque, however, I would torque down ALL THE CASE bolts to know I got an accurate reading. It doesn't take that much longer to do, at least for piece of mind. Please clarify "Didn’t get as perfect of a plastiguage " . .

It looks different from my stock seat exterior... .

The gauge reading low when you still have plenty of fuel is normal, (IME). When my low fuel light starts flashing, it takes 2.5-3 gallons to fill IE, it's only down MAYBE 2/3's of a tank.. I average, mostly around town, about 44 MPG so your range of about 200 / tank is again normal.. I'll...

That set up (^^), IMO, looks to be a PIA... You have to carry the T around, or hear it jingle while attached (no helmet) to the bar. Then, un-lock it, fish it thru the helmet strap, then over the mirror, (likely knocking adjustment out) then locking it. And that's if you have room on the...

This is the first time of heard of it (Ducuti or any other manufacturer). I don't remember why I made it, I've always had "D" loop helmets.. Perhaps to get another, second helmet to reach the lock. .

Take some say 1/8" galvanized/SS cable and two crimp ends(double insert end). Cut to length (measure how long you need) and crimp both ends over as shown below. (Tile is background is 12") Once done, loop thru your chin guard then both ends to the helmet lock assembly. You can leave the loop...

Running a straight edge across it wouldn't hurt but, it never overheated (to your knowledge, nor signs of it) so that'd probably be ok as it is.. As Gary points out, your doing great!!! .

Your second paragraph sounds like an issue I had several months ago, a bad starter. (About 35,000 miles at the time). Push the starter, just a click. Hot wire from battery direct to starter lug, nothing.. Push starts right up... You can remove the starter, two bolts and pull the end cap off...

With the new owner (poster/victim...) having only put approx 600 miles on it since acquired, I suspect the PO knew of the knocking (issue) and got rid of it. I'd guess crappy old oil, low oil, an over rev, ??? That bearing /rod was just the first (and luckily only) one to fail (possibly...

I'm familiar with PB and LW, (WD40 is about useless in this case), and I'm not familiar at all with the other. For what their made for, low viscosity, dissolve rust, PENETRATE, is what (IMO) is what was needed initially to get things moving again. Once moving normally, some lube is fine, too...

All the pic's look really, really good. Brake cleaner on the pistons/rings would work fine. I still would measure the end gap of at least one set of rings to get an idea As for the head, I'd clean and then check with fluid (upside down). If no leaks, I wouldn't bother. Is there much build...

From post #20: Quote: "While not perfect they’re snapping back pretty good." Two TB's each are connected by one shaft. In the middle there's an adjuster (with spring) so binding, coming all of a sudden is highly un-likely. It's not one long shaft... ***Basic's first***, clean / lube...

To add, while the heads off (and super cheap). Decarbonize the valve area (combustion chamber). Prop the head upside down, add Seafoam (or equivalent) to each quench area. Let sit for awhile and watch for ANY leakage of fluid from the intake valves and exhaust valves. it should stay dry. If...

Not sure what a "real lubricant" is... Re LW, what I use with very good results: https://www.liquidwrench.com/product/penetrating-oil/ Trying to get some 30 weight engine oil, once loosened up would be better yet but the TB's have to come off to angle /gravity) oil into the bores.. I doubt...

Marcoi!!! Martin, you still celebrating?? .

Spray the Liquid Wrench on EVERY point, including inside the throttle bodies spraying at the shaft. It sounds like some corrosion and crap built up. Once the fluid is in there it should loosen up. You may have to spray it more and manually move it more back and forth but it should loosen up...

Happy belated Birthday Martin!!!! .

All great posts above but... I'd brake clean all that nastiness from the TB's, shaft that passes thru, springs, etc. You don't want to push any of that crap into the area. Loose the white grease till the TB shaft moves easily. Liquid wrench or better yet PB Blaster will get into those...