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Expect more and more models to be discontinued. "Men" these days don't ride motorcycles anymore, they ride electric scooters. And also taking into account that those electric car fuckers (such as Elon Musk & his "lobby" devils) are making it more and more difficult for combustion engines to...

Just do static balancing + wheel weights. It's easy. It's cheap. It's what the manuals say. It's what 99,999% of riders use. It's what MotoGP guys use. Why would anyone even consider anything else? Surely, beforehand buy new and good quality tires.

It's called parcel forwarding and it's been done for years. It's exactly an in country proxy. Haven't used this lately, so can't recommend you any particular company. https://www.italianforwarding.com/ https://fromitaly.parcl.com/ https://www.youshopitaly.com/en/ and many others on the...

A tooth down the front will accelerate the wear. I actually do have a 520 with -1 front and +1 or +2 (can't remember now). It wears faster than a 530. The speedometer and odometer show about 7-8% more, but there's also 7-8% quicker acceleration. Combined with the leo vince exhaust it feel at...

I'd say the front is 90% done, and the rear about 75%. The chain is definitely at least equally worn. The life left depends on how hard you ride it and the condition of the chain- are the links binding (first picture suggests so)?, and does it have too much stretch (tension the chain as per...

Your ass surely is more comfortable... at the expense of the prostate, as explained previously. If the foam goes bad (mine is still fine) and no longer supports the sit bones then it becomes bad as well. BTW- what type of bicycle saddle do you use? Few years ago I used to cycle relatively...

A seat that sits between your legs is a saddle- it's neither a car seat, nor a couch, nor your office chair. Colloquially speaking the ischial tuberosities- the bony part of your arse- are called "sit bones" for a reason: that's what you're actually supposed to sit on. If it's really...

You might have the fork stanchions bent and/or twisted inside the triple trees.

A few small dabs of weld would be more than enough to fill the missing material, and it's unlikely that it'll melt the rubber gasket. Then file or die the threads. I wouldn't open up the engine just to replace the shaft. Even with too little thread left and no means of repairing the threads you...

Some time ago (haven't trained grip in a while) I could close a 250lbs gripper and a dirty hydraulic clutch STILL got me after 30 minutes of city riding. However, more strength never hurts. On the FZ6, apart from the aforementioned cable lubing - cable which could already be beyond lubing and...

IMO suspension improvements are worth it regardless of the market value of the bike. I wouldn't pay for new "big brand" parts but there are other cheaper options. The bare minimum I'd do is a cartridge emulator + rebuild + springs of the correct rate. With some luck and effort you might get the...

Can't remember if you mentioned this, but did you check the stator plug? See the issue with my melting stator plug, few pages before. Objectively, that Honda cruiser is half the bike the FZ6 is. Literally- half (or maybe less) the power, half the braking equipment, etc. But whatever makes one...

First thing I'd look for is loose and/or oxidized connectors. Some possibilities: -oxidation in the circuit between the CDI and plugs => it might spark but at too low current -both the neutral switch and clutch switch not working => bike thinks you're starting it in gear With the wiring...

I've installed the fh027aa MOSFET RR. Now, on a new and full battery it charges at 14.17-14.18V at idle and 14.19-14.2V at 2000-6000RPM. It required moving the rear brake reservoir to make extra room and modifying the OEM bracket. Not that hard but still a bit more work than anticipated. Think...

With things looking as they do now, soon many will try to liquidate whatever inventory or assets they have, so likely many other killer deals will follow.

Mistakes happen. Chain slack can very easily mask a cam that's installed offset. It's best to get to TDC and then, with the top cover still off, do a 720 turn on the crank, then double check that all marks are (still) lined properly. Now, imagine a shop would had done this mistake. I bet they...

The coils can stay on the tray, and if you don't pull the leads out of the mat the mat will be much easier to put back. Just remove the air box and battery, push the mat and battery tray a bit, remove the leads and then push a bit more. This should give you enough room to remove the battery...

IMO it's easier to leave the radiator in place and just remove the air box and battery tray

Many engines have 1-2 teeth offset allowance before the valves and piston touch. Some even install it offset on purpose for "poor man's race cams". If it's offset I can't tell you how it would feel or to what extent the ECU might compensate

Maybe you skipped a tooth when installing one of the cams