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What would the blinking temperature light be? I imagine, but don't really know, that a code would show a standard red engine light?

Fuel pump is primary suspect, but when mine went, my temperature gauge didn't do anything different. You may have something else that is not allowing the fuel pump to run. Diagnostic mode might tell you something.

As Motogiro mentioned above, listen for that, maybe do a fuel pressure test. Fuel pump may be done. Are you sure you didn't over heat it? Look into how to get into diagnostic mode and see if anything comes up.

As I see you still around from this post, and it seems I have a similar problem I'm going to be digging back into this weekend, could you PM me this info as well? I am also wondering what cheap tool he used to push the bearing out. He said below, but if it's still in the thread I don't see it.

Clutch cable is a good point to look at. It may need adjustment. As the cable is used and ages, it stretches allowing the pull on the lever to not be as effective. That spin wheel on the lever is to be able to tighten a little as needed. There's an allowance for play as you pull the lever before...

I'm not sure I know what you are describing. I know almost every bike I hear sounds like they are being slammed when put in first at a stop. I have switched to neutral and coasted, then back to second when it turned out I didn't have to stop and THAT often sounds loud. Maybe if you are "granny...

Here's a good pic of what's behind the headlight on mine. I believe that wire on the left of the ignition switch is connected to the instrument gauge and the bike by the connectors you seek, but they are hanging down out of site in this pic. The connector you do see is to the LED tail light and...

Again, mine being a naked, there may be some difference here, but I don't think I had to lift the tree at all. I removed my headlight assembly and everything was right there.

Can't hurt to change the oil, but if you left anything in the cylinder, it would be spat out the exhaust before it would get past the rings. Glad you got it.

I think my connector was right behind the headlight, but I have a naked model and the switch was replaced before I bought it. I had to dig in because my key kept sticking and not turning. I first thought it was my key. A smith I spoke with cut me a new one from vin code. I was still having the...

How about your seat lock?

If you are going to get a can, might as well get a pump. Instead of riding until empty, pump until empty, measure, add back in.

Glad to hear about the stability. I know from the time the fuel gauge starts blinking there is significant fuel left. It's not actually empty at that point. It's a warning to get to a fuel station. I don't know how much is actually supposed to be left though.

If you are not a night rider, then whatever is in there should be ok. There is such a thing as too bright. I'm constantly getting blinded by oncoming headlights these days since people that are too night blind to be driving at all can't be bothered not to or to at least slow down, go and install...

The indicators are their own separate sets of wires on two separate pins in the connector. You can tie them right in to your regular indicator wires and there should be no problem. The headlamp feeds is what you're going to have to figure out what you want to do. The bulbs themselves are not...

Your aftermarket headlight there only has a positive and negative wire going to each headlight bulb. The other two wires are positive and negative going to what appears to be integrated flush mounted turn signals. There is no actual wiring in that set up for a high low beam. The best you can...

I saw that square shaped extractors are not as likely to expand the parts to be extracted, over round shaped,if you have a choice. If you need a shop, I've never had a problem with Philly Cycle Center on Castor Ave for anything I've had them do. I'd also give good props to Riderz Inc. in Erial...

You would need a set of vacuum gauges. There are videos on how to do it on YouTube. I don't remember if any are FZ specific, but the process is the same for any multi carb / TB engine. I wouldn't worry about that much unless you are sure you got your electrical fixed first. It is a general...

If you're geeting and erratic, or not getting a steady electrical output, your spark plug's current may not be consistently strong enough to spark / ignite. The only other guess I can offer is if your carbs / throttle bodies need synced.

That explains something I've been missing. Thanks!