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Winter time = Project time. On the bike operating table is a bike I bought 3 years ago, a 1976 CB550F Super Sport. I've been waiting until I retired to do a full restoration on this bike...and I retired on August 1st. Time to get crackin'. I bought this bike from an 18-year-old after he...

The wire diagram is all you need. Do you have a copy of the FSM? Before making the decision to go with an aftermarket instrument cluster, do know that you will lose the ability to read fault codes from the ECU. This could make future repairs very difficult.

Don’t touch the head pipes with your fingers…even wet. It’s painful. Use an IR thermometer. Just under the battery box are the ignition coils. My guess is when you installed the battery (maybe trying to squeeze it between the foam blocks) you dislodged a +12VDC or trigger wire to a coil...

The bearing for the "Main Axle Assembly" can be removed and replaced fairly easily. There is a bearing housing that sits just behind the sprocket. Remove the three T-30 bolts that hold the housing in place. Then use two M6x30 bolts in the removal holes that are located at the 3:00 and 9:00...

Push starting a fuel injected bike is difficult…and impossible if the stator has failed. If the battery won’t hold a charge for starting…then you’ve found the problem. At idle you should see around 13.8VDC and above 3,000 rpm somewhere around 14.5VDC. If you find that the voltage is low, we...

Either your new battery has died an early death, or the charging system isn’t doing its job. Charge the battery up, get the bike started and check the voltage at the battery terminals at idle and 3,000 rpm to see if your charging system isn’t working properly.

Did you rebuild the engine or just paint the case? That bike is going to be beautiful.

I’m 6 foot. I had both the OEM screen and a ZG double bubble. The turbulence was like getting continuously slapped on both sides of the helmet.

The aerodynamics of the OEM fairing are not good. There is a lot of turbulence right at helmet level. I’d try to find another FZ6 to ride with the original fairing before you drop $300-$500. I have two FZ6’s. Both are naked. I much prefer the smooth airflow. When I first got my FZ6 I had...

You are well on your way. A throttle body sync is probably in order as well. Another thought - the FSM lists the fuel pressure at 36.3 psi (250kPa)... but is this a minium pressure. I wonder if there is a service limit above that value.

Glad you made it to the doctor for just a checkup. Car drivers have gotten worse over the last decade…ride like you’re invisible.

You can compensate for the extra fuel by adjusting your CO trims down. Also, looking at the photos of the bike I see it still has the OEM exhaust. If you have been thinking about an aftermarket unit, this might be good justification to make that change as the additional flow well help offset the...

Member Ben Franklin may be interested in your spare fuel pressure regulator.

Do you think the OEM pressure regulator can be saved? I have a vapor blaster…perhaps I can remove the internal corrosion that is causing it to hang up.

Once again, good diagnostics. Nice work on the tank too. That bike is lucky to have found you.

Great diagnostics. The tank and fuel pump assembly look good…we’ve seen much much worse. The OEM fuel pump assembly ”could” be a lifetime part for the bike. Some do fail…but most don’t. I’d be inclined to use a new regulator as the original has clearly failed.

Wow that pump was in bad shape.

I agree with Graham. Another alternative is to find a replacement harness on eBay. That part of the harness is the forward sub harness, not the main harness. It contains the forward lighting (one connector) and the ignition switch (another connector).

Sorry…I misspoke (watching football). I said TB temp sensor, I meant IAC. The IAC has a plunger that keeps the throttle body at a certain temp range. When this malfunctions it effects idle and throttle response. Member Tuning-Forks posted a good video that he found a few months back.

Regarding the pitting in the fork tube; fill each deep pit with crazy glue (or any generic equivalent) and polish it smooth. It may take a few applications. You will likely need to remove the fork to do this…but that’s nothing compared to having to replace fresh fork seals. BTW, my Amazon...