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Might be an S1 vs S2 thing, but my clock is displayed 24/7/365. OP has an S2 so the info doesn’t help him solve his issue.

Corrosion in the connector(s).

First I would heal. After that I would assess the damage before buying parts or investing in the bike. Take care of you first.

If one or both of the upper tubes are bent, I’d replace them with a used fork assembly. The FZ6 uses very basic damping rod forks…there’s nothing special about them.

Sorry to hear about your crash, but I’m glad that you’re ok. If the forks won’t compress they have suffered some damage, likely bent fork tubes. You can confirm this by disassembling the forks and rolling the upper tubes on a flat surface. Good luck printing fairings. If you are successful...

Funny thing about tire reviews…the new tires will always be better than the old tires (worn tires tend to be flat in the center which require additional effort to initiate a turn and then a quick correction as they roll past the threshold onto the original side profile). I’m always more...

Your mechanic sucks. The fuel pressure is 2.5 bar….period. Fuel injection systems are not designed to work within a range, but at a specific value. This way the system is able to provide an exact metered amount of fuel.

2.5 bar all the time.

Vapor lock is not a known problem on the FZ6. The fuel pressure going to 3.2 bar is a problem as it should be 2.5 bar. It’s an indication that the fuel pump assembly is not to OEM specification. Check for spark as noted above. No need to remove the spark plugs…you just need access to the caps.

I believe there is a sub-harness in that chain as well.

I thought that was a compelling question, so I went out and dropped a plumb line from the center of the tail light/center of the exhaust to check it against the tire. As you can see in the photo…center is center. Take another look at yours. It’s possible that the plastic assembly is twisted...

Yes, the aftermarket indicators use the coil as the source for RPM signal (square wave). There should be a setting to choose a 4 cylinder engine.

That’s funny

I take it back…looks normal. I took a photo of mine and it looks exactly the same.

No, it’s not. There should be a slight gap but yours looks a few mm too far.

Welcome to the forum. It’s possible that the shop that installed the tire didn’t do a good job balancing. Also, you can’t tell if a rotor is warped by looking at it…you have to get a dial gauge on it and measure the run out. If you had a frozen caliper, then a warped disc is possible. If you...

Bad (or destroyed) wheel bearing? Frozen brake caliper? Blown shock seal? Could be anything…you’re gonna have to dig a little deeper.

Get an electric motor hot enough that there is thermal expansion, then the air gap disappears leading to the rotor and stator rubbing together. That's a significant physical block. Honestly, you are abusing that starter motor. Run it for 5-10 seconds, and then allow it to cool for 2-4x the run...

That poor starter. Based on how you are engaging the starter, the occasional lack of response from the starter may be happening because you have overheated the starter. I think that the Error code 12 may be correct. I highly doubt that there is enough leakage from a failed injector that your...

I would expect an out of spec or unbalanced tire to get worse with speed, not better.