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Edit number 2 is correct. The HT lead adds resistance as well. You do appear to be in spec. I don’t think coils are the issue. You can check them hot…but I believe you problem occurs whether the engine is hot or cold…correct?

What if the starter is causing an internal dead short? That would allow 0.0VDC to the ECU.

There are a number of reasons an engine can loose power at high rpm’s: 1. Your new fuel pump isn’t supplying the correct fuel pressure or flow rate 2. Clogged fuel screen 3. Pinched fuel line 4. Do the coils show any signs of cracking or swelling? If so it is a failed coil(s) 5. Failed spark...

Every sprocket bolt I have ever bought has been pre-coated with blue loctite. Even though this loctite is dry, it is still treated as a wet lubricant.

I believe that nut is to be torqued wet (loc-tite) so the torque value should be reduced by 10-15%, so 61-65 ft-lbs is the correct value. Another point…most people don’t bother to calibrate their torque wrenches. All it takes is a known weight, a strap, and a vice. I use barbell weights; 5 lbs...

A leak down test is NOT putting oil into the cylinder…it is putting a specific amount of air into the cylinder (typically 80psi) and seeing on the gauge how much of that 80psi the cylinder is able to maintain. If it holds 90% or more (72psi) the cylinder passes the test. Less than 90% and you...

To determine a specific reason for a loss of compression you will need to perform a leak-down test (differential compression test). If the valves are the cause of compression loss, air will escape from the exhaust, throttle bodies, or both. Before doing the leak-down test, conduct a total...

You said you can hear the injectors clicking, but that doesn’t mean they are delivering fuel. I would get a visual inspection on all 4 injectors.

I agree…the center temperatures look as I suspect, the outer cylinders are cold.

The blue with the red stripe is hot for both the tail light and the license plate light.

I typically perform a leak-down test if one or more cylinders fail the compression test. If the compression passes, the leak-down test doesn’t really reveal anything.

What are your compression values for each cylinder?

Happy birthday!

Engines produce a lot of heat that has to go somewhere. Fluid dynamics suggests that the heat will be dissipated behind and to the sides; especially if the bike is moving forward. I don’t see anything unusual here…with the exception of not wearing proper protective gear. Not judging…it’s your skin.

The video does seem to show a healthy battery, but was the code 12 registered 4 or 5 attempts later? Plus, if the voltage drops during cranking a code will be registered. I guess the point of my post was to not chase random codes and focus on the symptoms. A low battery will result in poor spark.

A code that can also get registered when the voltage gets low.

For your safety, a bent fork gets replaced. Be sure to review the other fork tube while disassembled on a flat surface. The runout in the brake rotor is the result of a bent rim or bearing carrier. The steering head assembly is removed from the top…it’s not complicated and is well documented...

I’ve never understood the need for a quick shift (especially upshift only) on a street bike. In fact, you can easily perform clutchless quick shifts by simply unloading the throttle while clicking up. To this guy who has been riding for 50 years, quick shifters are about as useful as water in...

It’s the ECU of a modern bike that controls the shift actuator and cuts the spark that makes a quick shifter work. Moreover, the bike design has to include throttle by wire in order to implement the down shift function. As a result, a quick shift adaptation on the FZ6 is impossible.

Nice job on making a leak down test rig. I would run the engine and recheck the compression after the cylinder has cooled enough that it’s just warm to the touch. I assume you held the throttle wide open during the test, and the air filter was removed.