Recent content by FinalImpact

Hi Scott. Ya, it's been a while! Life took me on ride and just been busy as hell and had to set priorities closer to home. Then add COVID and the impact to nurses which I live with it and walla - my disappearance! It looks like many are still here holding the fort down and my password still...

Piggy, I added a post in your other thread with a link to changes made to my S2 to fix the issue. I would assume a tune to PC3 would resolve this but that is not what I have. Follow the link.

I haven't been on here in years as life has had many turns. I still have the Fizzer and its throttle response snatchiness has been tuned out of it. Read some of the post in this build thread, some at #83 show the fuel map changes made with wide band sensor into a data logger. That was used to...

This likely isn't Russia, but take a look at the fun one can have with Red light camera.... Breakin the law, breakin the law!

I keep coming back to this post with nothing to say as I've seen the damn C take too many. So many have lost. Jammie is not alone, I wish his family and friends strength. I'm glad he shared all he did and helped us along the way, and everything he did for family, friends, community. You will be...

Growing up as kid we called this back ice as often times you land on your arse and hurt your back!

The early R6 has less travel than the Fizzer. Pretty sure its 4.6 or 4.2". Hence, making the spec tighter. I've these forks on here since 2012, 8 years. They work well when set properly and both front and rear are dialed in...

It's in the post above... Bike needs 10 - 12 mm of sag. Now repeat with the rider. Hope for 28 to 32 mm of sag. See if you can adjust the preload to get these numbers. - think of it this way, at 38mm you've already used up more than a 1/3 of the travel on the nose, so I prefer the 28 to 32mm...

To help turn in, loosen the stanchion clamps and raise the tubes up above the triple 6mm. The end of an Allen wrench works good for measuring both sides. Start there. I found 12 and 10 to be to squirrely at speed, 6 to be best.

So you're saying the rear damping is adjusting and working now? The front: When you remove the fork cap there is a lock nut to the shaft that must be set to the proper height or it will not control rebound damping. And if set too long, can damage the valve. In short the damping rod threads to...

Back to the shocks!!! The rear may never work proper without re-valving it as it was never meant to work via direct action. I have a thread on this based on an R1 shock I re-valved which works extremely well. That said, the damping on the nose is very fixable. Mind you, measuring the static...

Hi Scott, Work is sucking the life out of me from dawn to dusk. The life in a major medical company is demanding. I'm qualifying a new laser ablation system and that equates to thousands of tests, experiments, trial tests, and mountains of documents that need written and subsequently approved...

Damn dude, glad you are OK after a LS. Those can be hard on people! The only thing I could say about keeping a salvage title is keep you insurance payments low because another down and you get nothing. Glad you're considering another FZ though. I looked at and rode a used 09 for triples power...

Cliff, I think it's the starter. It's not working. Please hit IT! Click for short narrative -> Starter Malfunction!

I suspect a bearing in the trans has let go. Once free of lube, a rough bearing will be very noisy. That said, the old chain jumps a bit like it has a kink. Is it a six speed box? what does 4th sound like? 4th is often 1:1 and can be more civil than the other gears. Splitting cases is not a big...