Idle speed - Should I increase it?

[philz]

Picked up my 2005 FZ6 last night and am really enjoying it so far.

Been reading various threads and apparently the idle should be 1250-1350 however mine is idling at just over 1000. It seems to start fine and doesn't stutter or anything so would there be any benefit in increasing the idle if it seems fine as it is?

 

[Nelly]

Setting the correct idle will improve pulling away and reduce stalling.
Some guys actually set the idle much higher than 1350 to reduce rear wheel lock when down shifting from high rpm.

I have mine set at the higher end off 1350.

Nelly

 

[mave2911]

1350 will make your shifts smoother. Remember, this bike likes to rev, so upping to idle to the manufacturers spec will give you more 'take off' power, especially from the lights, and won't be prone to stalling.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have mine set at 1000.

Idles dead smooth, NO vibration thru the mirrors (which I was getting a little at 1300). I've had it set at 1000 since I've owned the bike over 4 years and absolutly no problems...

Shifts into first a little bit smoother as the transmission is turning not quite so fast, shifts fine (up and down) just fine, (as smooth as my old FJR). Bike is also slightly quieter (with Scorps) at 1000 and runs like a raped ape, stock gearing, iridium plugs, and will power wheelie in first...

I do bring it up to 1300 when doing a throttle sync.

 

[Dave.TX]

I have mine set at 1000.

Idles dead smooth, NO vibration thru the mirrors (which I was getting a little at 1300). I've had it set at 1000 since I've owned the bike over 4 years and absolutly no problems...

So if it's been set at 1,000 RPM's since you've owned it how do you know it vibrates when set at 1,300? :BLAA:

I set mine to what the manual stated, somewhere around 1,300. Usually didn't sit at idle very much anyway. Never any problems.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So if it's been set at 1,000 RPM's since you've owned it how do you know it vibrates when set at 1,300? :BLAA:

I set mine to what the manual stated, somewhere around 1,300. Usually didn't sit at idle very much anyway. Never any problems.

I didn't say it came set at 1,000, it was closer to 1300 as I bought it used from a friend (for his son, a first time rider). I said I turned it down to 1,000..

I rode it for awhile at 1300 RPM's, it did get some very minor vibrations in the mirrors.

At 1000, the mirrors DO NOT vibrate at all.

As a side note, when I got the bike, the throttle body sync was in spec however I was getting some annoying vibration thru the seat and bars at about 4k.

I raised the idle to 1300 and sync'ed at both idle and 4,000 RPM and got the sync much closer across the board, (within 3mm, spec is up to 10mm), thats at idle and 4k and eliminated approx 90% of the vibration...

BTW, I don't need a high idle to get rolling as I do have a couple of miles under my belt (including advanced Police Motorcycle riding training when I was on motors working traffic enforcement)...

I suspect if you tried lowering your idle, you'd likly prefer it, but to each his own. The op asked for opinions, I gave mine...


On your GT, just curious, do you have a helmet lock?

 

[REO Scorpio]

As an aside, one thing I've noticed is that my tach doesn't give a true reading of my idle.

I've used the Power Commander software as well as RPM from sound (http://www.tunelab-world.com/rpmsound.html) and both show about 1300 when my tach is reading around 1100. If I set it to what looks like 1250 after warmup, the software reads at 1450-1500.

Just something to consider when discussing the differences as some people may be over spec in reality.

Scorp



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[turbid]

ok so when you say the bike idles at 1300 or 1000 or whatever, is it when it is still cold or when its already warm? when warm mine idles between 890 and 1050 (lowest and highest reading i got on the tacho)

 

[nivag]

Mine idles at 1000k when warm and I can't say I have any problems launching from the lights, you just twist the throttle to the desired loudness and away you go

 

[nivag]

Mine idles at 1000k when warm and I can't say I have any problems launching from the lights, you just twist the throttle to the desired loudness and away you go

 

[REO Scorpio]

Measured when it is warmed up from riding.

After mine is properly prepped, it looks like its right around 1100 on the tach if I'm sitting on bike (angle matters slightly). There is a slight bounce every once in a while, but my idle is pretty solid. If I plugged the bike/PCV into my laptop, the software will read a range 1280-1320.

Scorp




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[philz]

Looks like there's some differing opinions on here so I've set it to 1350 now and will ride for a few days like this and see how it goes. If I like it I'll keep it, if not then I'll try a little lower until I find a spot that I'm happy with.

Thanks

 

[Andz]

I don't think I have ever seen my idle speed on the display, it sits and goes "brup-brup-brup" which makes me think it is on the low side but I have never stalled on pull off. I'll check it tomorrow, if I remember.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Idle is set when bike is at running temp...

It will idle higher when cold and depending on the conditions may idle higher or longer.

My 1,000 RPM's is running, at temp, 165F, 170F or so and is rock solid, no variation on the tach needle...

 

[mave2911]

When I got my 2005 Fizzer, idle was set around 1000 and seamless shifts weren't possible.

I came on here for advice and also got the workshop manual.

Advice on here mirrored the specs in the manual, and I set it to 1350 and it made a huge difference.

Sure, I understand the 'each to his/her own', but really, the manufacturer specifies the minimum appropriate idle speed as 1250rpm.

Do you who run it lower because it 'feels ok' really think you know better than those that engineered to motorcycle?

There could be any number of 'hidden' reasons for this specification. (less of a gap between cylinders firing, means the cam chain isn't going as slack between ignition timings is one possible example that immediately springs to mind)

Just a thought, as I really don't think Yamaha sat down drew straws to see who's number sounded best for the specification. There must be a reason for it.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[Guitar Man]

Looks like there's some differing opinions on here so I've set it to 1350 now and will ride for a few days like this and see how it goes. If I like it I'll keep it, if not then I'll try a little lower until I find a spot that I'm happy with.

Thanks

I think I will do the opposite. I'm at 1300. I'm going to 1000 and see how it feels. Can't hurt anything.

 

[mave2911]

I think I will do the opposite. I'm at 1300. I'm going to 1000 and see how it feels. Can't hurt anything.

I hope you're right, and it doesn't hurt anything. Like I said, I'll trust the guys that engineered it.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I hope you're right, and it doesn't hurt anything. Like I said, I'll trust the guys that engineered it.

Cheers,
Rick

I've owned numerous Yamaha motorcycles since 1970 and consider myself a Yamaha guy (I own a Yamaha 4 stroke outborad as well). I trust the engineers very much as well or I wouldn't own a Yamaha(two actually).

However, if you've done any serious wrenching, you'll know there are short cuts to certain procedures, etc. IE, when sync'ing your TB's, Yamaha DOES NOT mention checking the sync, besides at idle, at 4,000 RPM's.

I had an annoying vibration thru the bars and seat, which after playing with the sync and re-adjusting at 4,000 RPMs (and keeping within spec's at idle) got rid of 90% of the vibration.. Yamaha allows 10mm between the TB's, mine are within 3mm. The dealership will, on most occassions, tell you its normal (the vibration), sync within 10mm and send you on your way...

I suspect with the very short clutch engaugement zone, and being a 600cc bike (generally a starter bike), the idle is spec'ed higher some so new folks can get rolling without stalling.. My 04 FJR (very similar engine) idle was spec'ed to idle at 1,000 to 1,100 RPM.

I can also mention how I had a problem with my FJR when it was fairly new and started running crappy (still under warranty). After the re-called TPS was replaced, it still didn't run right. A $125 throttle sync (I didn't own a sync tool at the time) didn't help (that was done incorrectly BTW by the mechanic-he adjusted the buterflys, not the air screws-its NOTED IN THE MANUAL NOT TO TOUCH THE BUTTERFLYS.)

The dealership tried hard, I'll give them that, and was on the phone with Yamaha headquarters in Ca numerous times trying to fix the problem but could not figure it out. I did have one mechanic at that dealership come out and tell me the misfire/bog was normal.. Getting really pissed at this time, I told him to please leave as he doesn't know what he's talking about.

Keep in mind, Yamaha tech's in Ca, could not figure out the problem. After approx 6 hours, I rode home, bike still not right.

Checking the internet (FJR forum), I was able to find the problem on the internet. A main harness plug, under the gas tank, likes to collect moisture(rain, washing, etc) and corrode. Mine was nice and green.. .

Once cleaned and di-lectric grease installed, it was fixed and ran great after that...BTW, the Yamaha manual DOES NOT MENTION PUTTING di-lectric grease in the connector (nor did Yamaha tech guys mention checking this plug, hmmm)...

It was a common problem, posted and found on the internet (by fellow FJR owners), NOT known at the dealership or at Yamaha headquarters apparently... It was designed this way, by Yamaha ENGINEERS, IMHO, DUH!!!

So, in my experiance, real world riding/wear/tear and the internet, Yamaha (or any other manufacturer) does NOT know everything, especially after the bikes been on the road for sometime in real world conditions...

That's why they have re-calls as well....

Also, as stated earlier, the lower idle, for my bike, eliminated the vibration in the mirrors, I prefer the sound of it, and most importantly, dropping into first gear from neutral is not nearly as big a clunk as the transmission is turning a bit slower. Holding in the clutch lever for a couple of seconds also helps slow the transmission spinning as well...

Set it at 1350, don't use di-lectric grease on on connectors exposed to moisture (as Yamaha engineers don't say to), etc... Just some of my experiance and of course, my opinion.....

 

[pantone]

The alternator output voltage is more close to nominal value when the idle speed is set as required by the manual. So you should increase it to protect the device receiving electricity.

 

[philz]

Been riding around today with the idle set to 1350ish. Not really noticed any improvements yet but the mirrors do vibrate a little more - nothing too bad but definitely noticeable. Think I'll drop it to 1250 to see what happens.