15T front or original front sprocket?

hi, I'm heavily using my '05 fz6 in rush traffic, sometimes cruising hi-ways. Will 15t causes more fuel consumption as 16t?

around 4-7k rpm when riding in city, 110 km/s (~65mph) when riding on hiway.

I'm so tired if there are any linguistic errors, forgive me.

Yes, the 15t sprocket will increase your fuel consumption.

For me it is well worth it though, it really makes it a lot easier to keep the bike in the high revs, you never end up bogging down in the low revs anymore.

Now, how much will your consumption increase? It's hard to say, mine is crap, but then i really pay no attention to it and rev the bike like mad.

One thing to consider, is that changing the front sprocket to a 15t will make your speedometer and odometer inaccurate, unless you add a speedohealer.

ozgurakman said:

hi, I'm heavily using my '05 fz6 in rush traffic, sometimes cruising hi-ways. Will 15t causes more fuel consumption as 16t?

around 4-7k rpm when riding in city, 110 km/s (~65mph) when riding on hiway.

I'm so tired if there are any linguistic errors, forgive me.

Click to expand...

Riding at a constant speed, the revs will be higher and you'll be using more
fuel, of course, common sense.

However, riding at 4000-7000 revs is riding 4000-7000 revs and that will
always use the same amount of fuel.. unless you start riding at higher revs
you won't notice any difference, if nothing else the bike will be more responsive
at those revs and you might end up using 3500-6500 now (and shifting more).

I went +1 up front and haven't noticed any change in fuel consumption.
A few faster runs or slower runs will affect it more then a +/- 1 change.

I went down a tooth at the front, and I still get really good fuel economy. It also makes it a bit easier in traffic and gives it a little more torque.

I get around 55mpg (5.1l per 100km)

greg said:

I went down a tooth at the front, and I still get really good fuel economy. It also makes it a bit easier in traffic and gives it a little more torque.

I get around 60mpg (50 US mpg)

Click to expand...

You don't get more torque, you get shorter gearing, the engine didn't magically
increase it's torque or power output.

I wish I got 50 MPG on mine, but there's no chance in hell to get over 45 on
my naked, even with +1 sprocket and riding between 2500 and 4500 revs
around town.

it's geared lower so the engine can apply more force to the rear wheel (at the expense of speed), output torque from the engine is obviously unchanged, but the lowered gearing provides more torque to the wheel.

it's like the using a breaker bar vs a shorter wrench, you apply the same amount of force to both handles, but the transmitted torque is higher

also I have a naked FZ6, over 45mpg should be achievable, depending on roads and riding style. I mostly use mine to commute to work on 30-40mph roads with light traffic.

greg said:

it's geared lower so the engine can apply more force to the rear wheel (at the expense of speed), output torque from the engine is obviously unchanged, but the lowered gearing provides more torque to the wheel.

it's like the using a breaker bar vs a shorter wrench, you apply the same amount of force to both handles, but the transmitted torque is higher

also I have a naked FZ6, over 45mpg should be achievable, depending on roads and riding style. I mostly use mine to commute to work on 30-40mph roads with light traffic.

Click to expand...

I literally can't be riding it any slower and at lower revs, and no hills around
either.

if you went up a tooth in the front then maybe you are making the engine labour more, wasting fuel and actually decreasing economy?

I move up and down the gears a lot, and change down if the engine starts to labour. That said I can usually keep it in 6th if I am above 30mph (36 indicated), I can even manage some smooth overtakes like this

also note that UK and US mpg are different 50 US mpg == 60 UK mpg

greg said:

if you went up a tooth in the front then maybe you are making the engine labour more, wasting fuel and actually decreasing economy?

I move up and down the gears a lot, and change down if the engine starts to labour. That said I can usually keep it in 6th if I am above 30mph (36 indicated), I can even manage some smooth overtakes like this

Click to expand...

I basically ride the same way, and I had the same fuel consumption before the
+1 swap. Yeah, there's less pull at low revs now then there was before, but
I'm not turning the throttle more to compensate for it, I'm just starting at a
slower rate, opening the throttle usually just enough to make the bike move
(still faster then most cars), and shift up to 6th gear at 40mph, I used to do
it a bit sooner before the sprocket swap.

Of course the rest of the bike is in tip-top shape, regular oil and filter changes,
and fresh tires.

However, I tend to ride on the lower end of the recommended tire pressures
around town (especially the front) because the road surface is very low quality (very slippery),
and I'm ~220lbs and have a topcase on at all times.

So..

I decided to go up in tire pressure for this year and see how it goes.

that could be a difference, I weight around 76kg (168lb), with around a couple of pounds of stuff in my top box. I run around 34psi in the front and 36 in the rear. There's a few other factors too such as brakes dragging, or chain fricion

greg said:

that could be a difference, I weight around 76kg (168lb), with around a couple of pounds of stuff in my top box. I run around 34psi in the front and 36 in the rear. There's a few other factors too such as brakes dragging, or chain fricion

Click to expand...

I had my brakes serviced 3 times in the year that I owned the bike (ABS issue
first, seized up rear callipers (rusty from the weather) twice, and changed the
rear pads just for good measure last month, they're not dragging, the rotors
aren't heating up.

34/36 is the lowest recommended pressures more or less, we got the 'bar'
units here, front should be 2.3 (you're at 2.35) and rear should be 2.5 bar
(and yours is at 2.48).

I was at 34/38 most of last year, 220-225lbs, and here are my fuelly records:
https://www.fuelly.com/driver/dbauernf/fz6
Ignore the last tank.

I guess I'm too fat!
I got the pressures up to 35/39,5 psi now.

The sticker on the swingarms recommends up to 36,5/42.

greg said:

if you went up a tooth in the front then maybe you are making the engine labour more, wasting fuel and actually decreasing economy?

Click to expand...

I've had a 17t up front for about a year now and haven't noticed any change in mileage. Im not a very aggressive ride either so the 17t is still PLENTY fast for me. I tracked it for a few months last year and got very consistent mpg's in the high 40's. ~48 was what I got most often.

17t also fixes the speedometer error. 15t is going to have an even greater error, although easily fixed with speedo healer. But...if a "peppier" bike is what's sought after the 15t is the way to go.

tejkowskit said:

17t also fixes the speedometer error.

Click to expand...

It should, but on mine it didn't. It did on my Ninja 650R tho.

I opened a whole new thread about it when I changed.

I got the same error as before and a different revs vs speed indicated then
before, and no one could figure out the reason other then maybe something
is different on my bike since I have the ABS.

My revs actually dropped for the same indicated speeds, and I've confirmed
the same GPS error as before. 62mph was 5000 revs before, it's about 300-350 less now.

Hah. That's weird! Gotta be with the abs model.. Idk

tejkowskit said:

Hah. That's weird! Gotta be with the abs model.. Idk

Click to expand...

We have no other ideas.

It worked like a charm on my Ninja 650 which also had ABS, it fixed the
speedo error completely, it was SPOT ON at 60mph.