What would cause this problem? is it TPS?

[necrotimus]

Over the past 6 months my bike has stalled while sitting at lights maybe 2 or 3 times. I just assumed the bike was cold and the idle was low, plus I have a very loose cutoff switch that when jiggled (not flipped) can sometimes cut the bike off. In the past month I noticed to maintain a speed my RPMs are higher than they were. In the past week the bike seems to have gotten worse but I couldnt tell if it was my imagaination because I ususually ride everyday and was away for a week. I thought well maybe I am going to have to push the service I was trying to hold off a few months till now to get plugs changed etc. Yesterday the bike cut out on the highway twice at 70 mph. The throttle becomes dead for a second or two and then kicks in again.

The bike is an 06 and the TPS recall states for 04 and some 05 I am going to go check the air filter and make sure I don't have a cat stuck in there or something.

Any help appreciated

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Over the past 6 months my bike has stalled while sitting at lights maybe 2 or 3 times. I just assumed the bike was cold and the idle was low, plus I have a very loose cutoff switch that when jiggled (not flipped) can sometimes cut the bike off. In the past month I noticed to maintain a speed my RPMs are higher than they were. In the past week the bike seems to have gotten worse but I couldnt tell if it was my imagaination because I ususually ride everyday and was away for a week. I thought well maybe I am going to have to push the service I was trying to hold off a few months till now to get plugs changed etc. Yesterday the bike cut out on the highway twice at 70 mph. The throttle becomes dead for a second or two and then kicks in again.

The bike is an 06 and the TPS recall states for 04 and some 05 I am going to go check the air filter and make sure I don't have a cat stuck in there or something.

Any help appreciated

If you know the cut off switch/wires are bad, I'd repair that first(ASAP before you get stranded). Cutting out at 70 MPH sounds like the kill switch/electrical. The TPS generallly affects slow speed performance.

Your idle should be about 1350 once warmed up. My 07 when cold, idles high, on its own, until warm (couple of minutes maybe).

 

[necrotimus]

Well the good and bad news is it isn't the kill switch... I opened the housing and it was just loose so I tightened everything up... after I started it up it was idling rough and cut off again... pulled the air filter and it is in pretty bad shape... all the pollen has done a number on it especially since it is stored outside... going to replace that next and see where that leaves me

 

[Ryan T]

Well the good and bad news is it isn't the kill switch... I opened the housing and it was just loose so I tightened everything up... after I started it up it was idling rough and cut off again... pulled the air filter and it is in pretty bad shape... all the pollen has done a number on it especially since it is stored outside... going to replace that next and see where that leaves me

Necro,

I'm in Woodbridge as well, the pollen is a killer. I've had no ill effects yet from what I can tell. I think I saw you a few days ago turning off of Old Bridge Road. I noticed cause I realized that it was an FZ6 (Red) in the area. I live off of Kinnicutt Rd.

 

[bertmoog]

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the TPS would have anything to do with the idle. There should be something like an idle air control valve, maybe, that adjusts idle speed electronically through the ECU. Post back if the new air filter fixes it.

 

[tuningfork]

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the TPS would have anything to do with the idle. There should be something like an idle air control valve, maybe, that adjusts idle speed electronically through the ECU. Post back if the new air filter fixes it.

TPS is a key fueling control input on this bike so if it is flaky I could see it instructing the ECU to do funny things to the fuel injection...which could cause stalls at idle or light load. I agree with Townsend though at 70 mph steady load the bike should have enough fuel/airflow/throttle opening to not really see this issue.

There is no idle air bypass valve to my knowledge on this bike. Fast idle/cold start I believe is controlled purely by extra fuel input (as directed by coolant sensor). Idle speed is set by the throttle stop (main idle control) and by using the air ports for TB sync.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the TPS would have anything to do with the idle. There should be something like an idle air control valve, maybe, that adjusts idle speed electronically through the ECU. Post back if the new air filter fixes it.

When I received my official re-call notice from Yamaha for my 04 FJR it SPECIFICALLY mentions stalling at slow speeds and poor slow speed performance. I know how to check the TPS on the FJR thru the dash but not the FZ, there may be something posted here. There are numbers (highs and lows) that MUST not fluctuate/skip when opening /closing the throttle. If it does, the TPS is bad.... The TPS (throttle position sensor)basically tells the computer where the throttle is at (open closed, partial, etc) to adjust injectors, timing, etc.

As for the idle adjustment, there's a screw located on the left side of the bike under the gas tank. Cold speed idle (higher) is controlled by the computer.

The throttle sync is done adjusting form a block at the rear of the throttle bodies. There are 4 lines (for each cylinder) 2 on each side you'd plug your sync meter into.... Your not syncing the butterflys (NOT recommended by Yamaha)

 

[RJ2112]

If you know the cut off switch/wires are bad, I'd repair that first(ASAP before you get stranded). Cutting out at 70 MPH sounds like the kill switch/electrical. The TPS generallly affects slow speed performance.

Your idle should be about 1350 once warmed up. My 07 when cold, idles high, on its own, until warm (couple of minutes maybe).

Best to start out solving the known problems; often that will resolve things that don't appear related......

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You may want to check/by pass safety switches ie: kick stand switch, clutch switch besides the kill switch.

 

[jimc224]

try the fuel pump. my 05fz6 had same issues. turns out the gas tank had rust in it. works great now.

 

[Jez]

I had TPS problems both at low speed, stalling occasionally, variable idle, and at high speed, say 60mph - slowing down abruptly like I was braking for a few seconds, like it was being strangled, before picking up again.

The recall seems to have cured it. 04 model though so maybe different.

 

[necrotimus]

Well I changed the air filter and was 100% problem free for almost a month and now it is back again.

Yesterday coming home I was doing 75 mph and then complete lack of throttle response for 2-3 seconds and then it came back fine. 15 minutes later at 30 mph the bike started chugging/bucking pretty hard for 5 seconds then stopped. As I was pulling into park at about 10 mph the engine just died. Electronics were still on. Pushing the starter button did nothing. Turned key off and on tried again and nothing. Repeated several times and noticed no fuel pump noises either. Flipped kill switch back and forth for a while and then started up and the immediately died. Finally got bike restarted and pulled into parking space. Jiggled kill switch left and right and bike died. Repeated this twice. Then bike started fine and no amount of playing with the kill switch (except fully flipping it) had any effect. Repeated this 10 times and each time started fine.

Going to take another look at the killswitch but may end up taking it to the shop. The only problem is the problem is so intermittent it may not show up while in shop. Also will check wiring to the best of my ability (not very good with electrics) as now seeing Fault code: Er-1 when the key is switched off:

Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Making me made because now I have to drive and that increases my commute by 50 minutes each way... sigh

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just for the heck of it, when the bikes running, try jiggling the ignition switch/key itself. You could have some dirty contacts in there. if it acts up when doing this its dirty or the switch is going bad. As I re-call, the switch is the about the same as the FJR. Try spraying some WD40 in the key hold and flip the switch on and off several times.

Pushing the starter button and nothing happening indicates a short somewhere. I would also clean the side stand safety switch, very simple. If the bike has a fair amount of miles, it'll pick up crap in the switch... Might take 20 minutes...

 

[necrotimus]

Pushing the starter button and nothing happening indicates a short somewhere.

Could the short be anywhere that is causing the issue? I have the dual headlight mod, put in pod lights, as well as have an additional brake light on my topcase. Those would be the second place I would looks after the kill switch.

Thanks

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Could the short be anywhere that is causing the issue? I have the dual headlight mod, put in pod lights, as well as have an additional brake light on my topcase. Those would be the second place I would looks after the kill switch.

Thanks

Yes, the IGNITION SWITCH, the SIDE STAND SWITCH. The ignition switch may be malfunctioning cutting power to the bike. The side stand switch if faulty will kill the ignition. It is supposed to kill the ignition when the bikes in gear, running and you put it down.

 

[Wyotech kid]

Just a quick thought you might check the lean angle sensor too. If it has moved or malfunctions it'll kill the bike, turn it on and off even though the bike hasn't fallen over.

 

[venoran]

Just a quick thought you might check the lean angle sensor too. If it has moved or malfunctions it'll kill the bike, turn it on and off even though the bike hasn't fallen over.

I'll second this. If the lean angle sensor is loose or malfunctioning it will kill the bike. I found this out when I was first learning to ride and lost my balance in a parking lot...wouldn't restart for a while after it cut out. After a while I gave up and went to get a drink, 10 min later it started fine.

The angle sensor is a small black plastic box mounted under the right side rear plastic cover below your seat (item 9 on page 8 of the '05 manual). Lift the seat, take out a screw, and then pop off the cover from its clips (pull straight out). All the sensor has is a little weighted pendulum that swings around a shaft...if it swings too far in either direction it will trip the switch.

 

[jimc224]

Just a thought, but also check the fuel pump/filter. I had rust in my tank and this created VERY similar symtoms. Without going into details this fixed my problems 100%. good luck.

 

[necrotimus]

Just a thought, but also check the fuel pump/filter. I had rust in my tank and this created VERY similar symtoms. Without going into details this fixed my problems 100%. good luck.

I'm leaning this way now. This weekend I checked all the electrical and even replaced my plugs. The test ride went fine yesterday but I stalled again this morning.

Any more information on what you did to fix the problem?

 

[Motogiro]

I'm leaning this way now. This weekend I checked all the electrical and even replaced my plugs. The test ride went fine yesterday but I stalled again this morning.

Any more information on what you did to fix the problem?

I've read through this post very fast and may have missed it, but have you pulled the wires off the Safety Shut Off switch and plugged in and tightly secured a jumper wire so as to eliminate the switch? If you haven't please try this. If you know you're having an intermittent problem with this switch, it must be repaired/ replaced first before you try to guess what else it might be. I know you posted that it was loose but please humor me and make a jumper, tape it up and test ride it for a couple of days.....