what are the co's??????

[hardway]

tagging for later, thanks for the info.

 

[reiobard]

you are probably running pretty rich at that setting. also, I would suggest keeping the C2 richer than C1 because the inside cylinders (C2) run hotter and need a richer mixture to keep detonation away. I would suggest knocking the C1 down to 10 and C2 up to 29 to maintain the 19 point spread that was factory set. Try it out and see how it feels.

Good information and also very sound advice, they have them set differently on purpose and KRID hit it on the nose, the C2 is the inside 2 cylinders and not having the wind blow by the sides of them make them run a bit hotter, so they make them run with more fuel to keep them cooler and you can run the outside pistons hotter (leaner) since they have the advantage of the extra cooling.

 

[krid80]

Good information and also very sound advice, they have them set differently on purpose and KRID hit it on the nose, the C2 is the inside 2 cylinders and not having the wind blow by the sides of them make them run a bit hotter, so they make them run with more fuel to keep them cooler and you can run the outside pistons hotter (leaner) since they have the advantage of the extra cooling.

I don't think wind blowing on the outside cylinders makes a noticeable temperature change but rather the lack of another heat source. the inside cylinders have two heat sources (a cylinder firing on each side) where the outside cylinders have only one each. I guess being exposed to air won't hurt, but these are water cooled bikes not air cooled.

 

[pooty]

maybe i'll go 20ish... but awaiting more input, i want to average it around



I remember that post and have been curious about this ever since.


How can i tell (Without a dyno) that i have gone too far? Temps while riding just goes up and i know i am too lean?

look at the spark plugs. if it is black too rich. i think gold or tan is correct.

 

[pooty]

this is from the warrior site.


K, mates. I am not really keen to stir this up again and do not want to stand up as an “Eletric no 2” (LOL) but I have read enough about this ECU Bump business.

Myself, I went through extensive and meticulously experimentation on this matter. My bike was at that stage stock (no BAK) and just had this loud Jardin exhaust I inherited from the previous owner.

After bumping up +3 then a long run, another +3 etc, there was no evidence on my plugs demonstrating any improvements in colouring. They were predominantly whitish and trust me I now how a brownish looking plug is supposed to look. The only thing I noticed was a change from this metallic bright sound on that exhaust to a deeper/throaty sound but just at idle.
I then left it because I was convinced that a PC-III will do more than I was expecting from this anyway.

I recently put a negative commend about this mod declaring it as a busted myth and because I was sick of it, I flicked an email to our technical support from yamaha-motor.com.au with the following content:



In opening the loop wire (pin #27 and #29) on the ECU and attaching pin #29 to mass, followed by the instructions documented in the Yamaha Service
Manual (holding down both button "Select" and "Reset" on the tachometer and then turning the key to "On"), the device turns into an enhanced
diagnosis mode.

Continuing to hold the buttons down will display the "DIAG" and then pressing "Select" it will switch to the symbol "Co" further leading to "Co
01" and "Co 02". In this mode you can make changes to the air/fuel mix of the according cylinder.

My question here: Does this change offset the entire stock A/F map or just the idle settings?

Thanks and regards,
Jack



Answer today:



Dear Jack,

Thank you for resubmitting your enquiry, the CO adjustment through your instrument/ display will only affect idle fuel mixture.

Regards,
Duilio Pianca
Customer Relations Department
Yamaha Motor Australia



Now, with this in mind, once and forever, I declare this ECU Bump again a myth and as busted!!!

Hasta la vista... hombre!

 

[krid80]

this is from the warrior site.


K, mates. I am not really keen to stir this up again and do not want to stand up as an “Eletric no 2” (LOL) but I have read enough about this ECU Bump business.

Myself, I went through extensive and meticulously experimentation on this matter. My bike was at that stage stock (no BAK) and just had this loud Jardin exhaust I inherited from the previous owner.

After bumping up +3 then a long run, another +3 etc, there was no evidence on my plugs demonstrating any improvements in colouring. They were predominantly whitish and trust me I now how a brownish looking plug is supposed to look. The only thing I noticed was a change from this metallic bright sound on that exhaust to a deeper/throaty sound but just at idle.
I then left it because I was convinced that a PC-III will do more than I was expecting from this anyway.

I recently put a negative commend about this mod declaring it as a busted myth and because I was sick of it, I flicked an email to our technical support from yamaha-motor.com.au with the following content:



In opening the loop wire (pin #27 and #29) on the ECU and attaching pin #29 to mass, followed by the instructions documented in the Yamaha Service
Manual (holding down both button \"Select\" and \"Reset\" on the tachometer and then turning the key to \"On\"), the device turns into an enhanced
diagnosis mode.

Continuing to hold the buttons down will display the \"DIAG\" and then pressing \"Select\" it will switch to the symbol \"Co\" further leading to \"Co
01\" and \"Co 02\". In this mode you can make changes to the air/fuel mix of the according cylinder.

My question here: Does this change offset the entire stock A/F map or just the idle settings?

Thanks and regards,
Jack



Answer today:



Dear Jack,

Thank you for resubmitting your enquiry, the CO adjustment through your instrument/ display will only affect idle fuel mixture.

Regards,
Duilio Pianca
Customer Relations Department
Yamaha Motor Australia



Now, with this in mind, once and forever, I declare this ECU Bump again a myth and as busted!!!

Hasta la vista... hombre!

Congrats on your search ability. But! You fail. If you look at the other posts on here regarding the CO adjustment you will find that on a dyno and with air/fuel mixture being the guide, CO adjustment through the gauge cluster DOES do more than idle. Moving 6 points from stock with a full exhaust won't hardly do anything! He should have likely gone 20-30 points up to change his plug color. BTW emailing Yamaha will get you a customer service rep. I have discussed this with my area Yamaha Service rep and he was not surprised with my dyno results. To quote him "people who have simple bolt-on modifications on their yamahas are wasting money adding a power commander. the only time you would need a power commander on a yamaha is if you are going really extreme like cams or other internal modifications."
It has been proven that CO adjustment on a dyno will net an extra 3-4hp at peak and steady increase throughout. So. Still think it only affects idle?

 

[jamesfz6]

don't waste money on a power commander (pc3) on a yamaha! a fifty cent piece of wire, ring terminal and a pin connector will get you the same power so long as you dyno tune.
There is a six pin connector under the tank where on one half, six wires come in and only five come out. Separate the plug halves and push out the rubber stopper covering the unused terminal. run the new wire from that terminal to a good ground and you are ready to adjust.
adjusting is simple! hold down the select and reset buttons for a couple seconds with the key off then turn the key on while holding the buttons for about 7 seconds more. \"diag\" should appear on the display. press select to switch to \"co\" then select and reset simultaneously to select \"co\" mode. adjust \"c1\" and \"c2\" the same increments up (write down your factory settings) while dynoing until your power starts to fall off.
Any other questions?

:needpics: I want to see pics of this mod

 

[pooty]

i would still trust the power commander over messing with the ecu.
go to fxstein.com
click on custom fuel map part 1. he knows way more than i do, maybe you too krid80
no disrespect

 

[krid80]

i would still trust the power commander over messing with the ecu.
go to fxstein.com
click on custom fuel map part 1. he knows way more than i do, maybe you too krid80
no disrespect

I am not going to dispute the usability of a power commander as I know how they work. Too often, however, people are installing power commanders where one is not needed.

I would trust what Yamaha created for our bikes over what a third party company has adapted to work. (all power commander 3 usb boxes are the same with only the plugs being different.

 

[reiobard]

I think that the adjustment adjusts the CO mixture Starting at idle, and that is what the rep meant, it changed the starting point but the +/- of the adjustment will carry through the range.

 

[d_cirkles2000]

you are probably running pretty rich at that setting. also, I would suggest keeping the C2 richer than C1 because the inside cylinders (C2) run hotter and need a richer mixture to keep detonation away. I would suggest knocking the C1 down to 10 and C2 up to 29 to maintain the 19 point spread that was factory set. Try it out and see how it feels.

i agree with you. i wasnt sure if i should since i saw that a few guys went even on a dyno run. i know that due to temp differences in the cylinders they should have different mixtures. i would like to have a way to test the o2 in the exhaust to check fuel trim. i do know that i gained sugnificant grunt from this mod and am pleased. i did notice drivability change through the rpm range not just at idle.

 

[opds9091]

does this pertain to the 07, being from what i was told that the ECU and mappings are different.

 

[krid80]

does this pertain to the 07, being from what i was told that the ECU and mappings are different.

yes it should work the same

 

[FzPilot]

is it strange that my factory settings were both at 0?

I went up to 15 on C1 and 20 on C2 but can't tell any difference so far.

 

[REO Scorpio]

is it strange that my factory settings were both at 0?

I went up to 15 on C1 and 20 on C2 but can't tell any difference so far.

Did u ground the wire on the battery ground? I did as well and mine were at 0,0.

Which totally bothers me as I was doing the adjustment to richen the bike, but if those values reset before I saw the factory numbers, I have no idea at what point I will be richenig the A/F.

Guess I'll have to take some time to adjust, ride, adjust, ride, etc until I can find a good spot.

Scorp

 

[YamahaMAXdRPMs]

a year later...

 

[REO Scorpio]

a year later...

Lol, I know, I know...

Just wanted to know a similar experience. Turns out mine must have been from dealer that way, as I redid the process and the values I entered stayed. So zero.zero.

Sorry for the unnecessary revive on this one...

 

[ginster vr6]

Lol, I know, I know...

Just wanted to know a similar experience. Turns out mine must have been from dealer that way, as I redid the process and the values I entered stayed. So zero.zero.

Sorry for the unnecessary revive on this one...

Well its good to know I am just about to start messing with mine and I found it odd that they were both 0,0 from the factory.

 

[hazy]

Well its good to know I am just about to start messing with mine and I found it odd that they were both 0,0 from the factory.

I check on my bike 2008 FZ6 S2 as well,both value stays at 0.Will it be better is i add a +5 to CO2 since the 2nd the 3rd cylinder run hotter then 1 and 4?

 

[abraxas]

I tried finding out about CO's, and got this from a guywho sets up race bikes, with R1 and R6 experience:

He reckons
c1 is low end
and
c2 is top end

NOT selecting cylinders 1/3 and 2/4.