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Fyi inside pad is there. Hidden in the shadows. Zoom in and you can see it.
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Weird siren/whining like noise after chain/sprocket replacement
- Thread starter Johnson
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Simply (and you can see it with NO disassembly), compare the pic of the slot and brake bracket with yours. If that slot isn't where it should be with the brake bracket, YES, now it has to come apart, and re-assembled correctly. HOPEFULLY (IF assembled wrong) that bracket didn't get bent.
As for the pads, and the anti-rattle "spring", simply remove the two bolts that hold the pads in. The pads will come out when lifted upwards. Inspect that SS spring and that it seats as pictured above...
BRAKE GREASE is not motorcycle specific, but is used ONLY for brakes. (high temp)...
Do you have a shop manual?
Johnson
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Laying on the ground to see if the slot it does not appear to be out of place but again not a hundred percent sure on this.
I was going to check the SS spring but having a hard time removing the screw plug (appears the be a flathead screw driver) and not the two 12/14 mm bolts on the side of the caliper. Any idea how to loosen that up?
This is becoming more problematic than I thought and debating just taking it back to the shop that installed the chain/rear brake...
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I hate that screw plug. Make surd you have a screw driver that fits. If its too small you will bugger the screw up. In the past i have used a manual impact driver to remove it. Make sure you apply never seize to the threads when you reassemble.
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Plus 1 ^^^.
You need the correct screw driver to remove that "plug"
Also, plus 1 using a hand held impact tool to remove it (with the proper sized tip).
Before it gets too buggered up, it'd probably be best to bring it back to the shop.
*I'd order a new "plug" for the future or you'll be drilling, easy out, etc, the worse it gets (PIA)
Can you shoot and post a pic from UNDER the bike, pointing up at the swing arm / slot?
You need the correct screw driver to remove that "plug"
Also, plus 1 using a hand held impact tool to remove it (with the proper sized tip).
Before it gets too buggered up, it'd probably be best to bring it back to the shop.
*I'd order a new "plug" for the future or you'll be drilling, easy out, etc, the worse it gets (PIA)
Can you shoot and post a pic from UNDER the bike, pointing up at the swing arm / slot?
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The other thing i have done is apply heat with a torch to the caliper where the screw cap is. Its aluminum so it doesnt take but 5 to 10 seconds to get it free.
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I had a neighbor with that problem last year. He'd already fixed it real real gooood. Lol! I used my roto tool and cut a new slot in the screw head. I heated the casting a little. Then used my large flat head with a square shank and a crescent wrench. I pushed hard into it and torqued the drive shank while I had him tap the end of the screw driver... "POP!!"
It comes with years of experience as a maintenance machinist working on injection molds and presses.
Yup heat is awesome if used properly.
It comes with years of experience as a maintenance machinist working on injection molds and presses.
Yup heat is awesome if used properly.Johnson
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Does this help?
https://imgur.com/typgHcV
https://imgur.com/hMecxto
Honestly how bad can it be? It's not going to combust on me mid ride right? Fortunately it is cold as hell right now otherwise I'd be riding
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From what I can tell by the second pic, it's NOT assembled correctly. It'd help ALOT if it was somewhat clean under there...
And yes, if that main brake bracket is NOT in the slot, depending on where it is, it can spin on you in a hard stop.
That's NOT taking into account the un-even braking, (the bracket is bent, the caliper would be crooked-making weird sounds).
The arrow points to where the tab and slot should be. Is yours as such?
And yes, if that main brake bracket is NOT in the slot, depending on where it is, it can spin on you in a hard stop.
That's NOT taking into account the un-even braking, (the bracket is bent, the caliper would be crooked-making weird sounds).
The arrow points to where the tab and slot should be. Is yours as such?
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Johnson
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From what I can tell by the second pic, it's NOT assembled correctly. It'd help ALOT if it was somewhat clean under there...
And yes, if that main brake bracket is NOT in the slot, depending on where it is, it can spin on you in a hard stop.
That's NOT taking into account the un-even braking, (the bracket is bent, the caliper would be crooked-making weird sounds).
The arrow points to where the tab and slot should be. Is yours as such?
So they would have done that while replacing chain and sprocket and not the rear brake right?
Regardless, I am not sure how to fix that
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Is yours in place????
And yes, the wheel would have been off.
To re-assemble for the sprocket, those two parts HAVE TO COME TOGETHER AS SUCH.
If it's not, that bracket is VERY LIKELY BENT.
I'd have that shop purchase you a new bracket and install it correctly or have another qualified shop do so...
Johnson
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I guess I am not entirely sure even looking underneath the bike if it is in place. I'll try taking a look again in the morning when it is bright outside.
Tried to get a hold of the shop but the guy/owner of shop is on vacation and I am not sure if anyone else would know or take my word that they were the ones that did this.
Again, really appreciate the effort you all have placed in looking into this.
Johnson
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So I know what I am looking for based on your diagrams, I just cant't tell even if I am looking underneath the bike and behind it. Took a few pics but don't think they show very well.
I think I am able to slip my finger in the "2" spot which means it's not flush right?
Perhaps I should just take your diagram to the shop and explain to them that's what I think is causing the noise?
https://imgur.com/y6Xhjai
https://imgur.com/RgjUf2L
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That SECOND picture shows the tab NOT IN the slot.
That bracket is very likely bent now and the tolerances don't allow for that much distortion, especially when the axle its torqued down to almost 80 lbs / foot...
That axle has to come out, try re-assembling, this time CORRECTLY... Print out those pictures (that I circled) BIG. If it was a shop that did this, shame on them. A very rookie mistake, NOT acceptable by a shop IMO...
Print out pictures of the brake pad shims as well. That other picture (earlier) appeared they were just jambed in there...
Lastly, check your owners manual on how to set the chain slack. I suspect they over tightened that as well. Should be 2" TOTAL UP AND DOWN PLAY on a clean, lubed chain. Very likely, it's MUCH tighter than that...
If you don't have the manual, PM me, I have them as a PDF..
Where I circled is the slot in the main brake bracket. It's not slid into the tab (from what I can see-dirty and dark):
That bracket is very likely bent now and the tolerances don't allow for that much distortion, especially when the axle its torqued down to almost 80 lbs / foot...
That axle has to come out, try re-assembling, this time CORRECTLY... Print out those pictures (that I circled) BIG. If it was a shop that did this, shame on them. A very rookie mistake, NOT acceptable by a shop IMO...
Print out pictures of the brake pad shims as well. That other picture (earlier) appeared they were just jambed in there...
Lastly, check your owners manual on how to set the chain slack. I suspect they over tightened that as well. Should be 2" TOTAL UP AND DOWN PLAY on a clean, lubed chain. Very likely, it's MUCH tighter than that...
If you don't have the manual, PM me, I have them as a PDF..
Where I circled is the slot in the main brake bracket. It's not slid into the tab (from what I can see-dirty and dark):
Last edited:
Johnson
New Member
That SECOND picture shows the tab NOT IN the slot.
That bracket is very likely bent now and the tolerances don't allow for that much distortion, especially when the axle its torqued down to almost 80 lbs / foot...
That axle has to come out, try re-assembling, this time CORRECTLY... Print out those pictures (that I circled) BIG. If it was a shop that did this, shame on them. A very rookie mistake, NOT acceptable by a shop IMO...
Print out pictures of the brake pad shims as well. That other picture (earlier) appeared they were just jambed in there...
Lastly, check your owners manual on how to set the chain slack. I suspect they over tightened that as well. Should be 2" TOTAL UP AND DOWN PLAY on a clean, lubed chain. Very likely, it's MUCH tighter than that...
If you don't have the manual, PM me, I have them as a PDF..
Where I circled is the slot in the main brake bracket. It's not slid into the tab (from what I can see-dirty and dark):
Still haven't taken to shop due to conflicts and although I shouldn't be ridding it, I've noticed two other things:
The whirling/siren sound only happens decelerating in first gear and not in second.
I feel the fuel efficiency has gone south recently
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Try stopping WITHOUT the REAR brake. It should be cool to the touch.
If the rear is binding, it's probably binding / heating up / HOT from being crooked.
If the rear is binding, it's probably binding / heating up / HOT from being crooked.
Johnson
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Ugh. Took it and the guy took apart everything and couldn't find anything. Said not to worry about it. Haven't ridden it to see if its worse or better but a bit disconcerning that pre new chain and sprocket no sound and now I hear things. He said chain and sprocket looks good....so again not sure. Its a good chain and sprocket so I don't believe thats the issue. Again, I'll lube and check slack this weekend but curious how castastrophic can it be?
