Weird siren/whining like noise after chain/sprocket replacement

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Do you recommend the OEM front Scott?

Chain/sprockets on mine are overdue, looking at these if you want to recommend one. FZ6 | Sprockets & Chain Kits

Stick with a 530 for longevity. The DID X ring is about the best chain..

The FZ stock front sprocket has a "sleeve"(best I can describe) that keeps the noise from the chain to a minimum.

I personally stuck with Yamaha OEM sprockets and the DID X ring chain..

Maybe adjusted it twice (so far in 2 plus years-it's done stretching).



This is my only bike and it's for play... It gets the best of everything, no Chinese knock offs...

 

[Johnson]

Stick with a 530 for longevity. The DID X ring is about the best chain..

The FZ stock front sprocket has a "sleeve"(best I can describe) that keeps the noise from the chain to a minimum.

I personally stuck with Yamaha OEM sprockets and the DID X ring chain..

Maybe adjusted it twice (so far in 2 plus years-it's done stretching).



This is my only bike and it's for play... It gets the best of everything, no Chinese knock offs...

The lack of a sleeve with this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0IKF2G/

Wouldn't cause the sound correct?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The lack of a sleeve with this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0IKF2G/

Wouldn't cause the sound correct?

Correct, not with how your describing it.

If you loosen the axle (not even hand tight) and adjusting bolts, can you move the wheel forward and rear-wards in the swing arm?

It should move easily forward and back with the chain being the only thing to stop rearwards movement.


Just to cover bases, you rear brake is not hanging up on the disc, correct?

 

[Gary in NJ]

I'm a big fan of DID X-Ring chains. All 4 of my bikes have 'em. For sprockets I use steel (except on MX bikes where I use aluminum) on my street bikes. They last the life of the chain.

 

[Johnson]

Correct, not with how your describing it.

If you loosen the axle (not even hand tight) and adjusting bolts, can you move the wheel forward and rear-wards in the swing arm?

It should move easily forward and back with the chain being the only thing to stop rearwards movement.


Just to cover bases, you rear brake is not hanging up on the disc, correct?

I think I finally got it, as you suggest really gave it a nudge after loosening the nuts and that moved it. Also I think when tightening originally I might have kept the adjusting nut in place while locking the other nut and it have tighted back up. Anyways no whirling sound around the block tonight, real test will be on the freeway tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the help!!

 

[gulfpete]

I personally stuck with Yamaha OEM sprockets and the DID X ring chain.. ..

I'll do the same, thanks

 

[Johnson]

Well despite chain slacking being loosened and the whining stopping initially, it has now returned. Any ideas other than loosening the slack further?

 

[Kenfz6]

Also check to see that the rear wheel is straight, not pointing slightly to the left or right. The chain will rub on the sides of the sprockets, you will see them as shiny areas on the sprockets where the chain is rubbing. Sight down the chain from rear to front, or use a chain alignment tool, or I just run the bike on the centerstand and watch how the chain is running on the rear sprocket and aligning the tire so the sprocket runs in the middle of the chain rollers.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just to add to the above, you should be able to see the roller wear pattern right in the middle of each chain roller.

What type of lube are you using?


Re-reading your first post, you apparently did the work yourself.

As noted above, it's possible you have a bad bearing, but in any case, I would remove the rear wheel.
Inspect all bearings by hand, and with a parts fisch in hand, make sure you have all spacers, etc, installed and installed correctly.

Probably not related but make sure your rear brake disc mount is properly inserted into the swing arm. It's REAL easy to miss that...

 

[Gary in NJ]

If not chain/sprocket related, and being that you have new sprockets and chain, then it is most likely the wheel bearings.Look for the uneven wear noted above, if it checks out then it might be wheel bearing replacement time. Some times you can get lucky and confirm this by removing the chain, putting the bike on the center stand and rotating the tire. If you have a bad bearing you'll hear it somewhere in the rotation. This is really a 50:50 shot though because there are a number of different ways that bearing fail and present the failure.

How many miles on this bike?
Is it stored outside?
Do you clean it with a pressure washer?

 

[Johnson]

Also check to see that the rear wheel is straight, not pointing slightly to the left or right. The chain will rub on the sides of the sprockets, you will see them as shiny areas on the sprockets where the chain is rubbing. Sight down the chain from rear to front, or use a chain alignment tool, or I just run the bike on the centerstand and watch how the chain is running on the rear sprocket and aligning the tire so the sprocket runs in the middle of the chain rollers.

I bought the damn motion pro chain alignment tool and it looks solid which was kinda suprising since I wasn't fully confident in the alignment marks on the side.

 

[Johnson]

Just to add to the above, you should be able to see the roller wear pattern right in the middle of each chain roller.

What type of lube are you using?


Re-reading your first post, you apparently did the work yourself.

As noted above, it's possible you have a bad bearing, but in any case, I would remove the rear wheel.
Inspect all bearings by hand, and with a parts fisch in hand, make sure you have all spacers, etc, installed and installed correctly.

Probably not related but make sure your rear brake disc mount is properly inserted into the swing arm. It's REAL easy to miss that...

Now that you mention it, the mechanic did mention that I needed my rear brake pads were gone and needed replacement when I did my chain my sprocket. How do I check that the rear brake disc mount is properly inserted into the swing arm?

 

[Johnson]

If not chain/sprocket related, and being that you have new sprockets and chain, then it is most likely the wheel bearings.Look for the uneven wear noted above, if it checks out then it might be wheel bearing replacement time. Some times you can get lucky and confirm this by removing the chain, putting the bike on the center stand and rotating the tire. If you have a bad bearing you'll hear it somewhere in the rotation. This is really a 50:50 shot though because there are a number of different ways that bearing fail and present the failure.

How many miles on this bike?
Is it stored outside?
Do you clean it with a pressure washer?

It has 33K miles with the last 10K by myself.

It is stored outside and generally uncovered except for the winter when it is covered.

I haven't cleaned it at all.... :|

When I lube my chain it is on the center stand and I rotate the tire, never noticed any odd sounds but haven't paid too much attention. Anyways just looked a video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQJhcfdsWTk

So will give that a whirl tomorrow. Anyways I hope it's the rear brake pad as Scott sugested earlier and reminded me that the rear brake pad was replaced during my chain replacement.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Now that you mention it, the mechanic did mention that I needed my rear brake pads were gone and needed replacement when I did my chain my sprocket. How do I check that the rear brake disc mount is properly inserted into the swing arm?

Look close in the picture below.

I circled the SLOT, of the brake bracket (that your caliper bolts to). It SHOULD be slipped INTO a raised, "squarish" lip in the swing arm.

It should NOT be above or below it.

It is real easy to miss this when re-assembling.

One member did just this, tightened down the axle and BENT the bracket. This will cause misalignment and possible the bracket RUBBING up against the disc.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Look close in the picture below.

I circled the SLOT, of the brake bracket (that your caliper bolts to). It SHOULD be slipped INTO a raised, "squarish" lip in the swing arm.

It should NOT be above or below it.

It is real easy to miss this when re-assembling.

One member did just this, tightened down the axle and BENT the bracket. This will cause misalignment and possible the bracket RUBBING up against the disc.

And, when that is assembled it should be lubricated/coated with never seize.

 

[Gary in NJ]

It has 33K miles with the last 10K by myself.

It is stored outside and generally uncovered except for the winter when it is covered.

I haven't cleaned it at all.... :|

When I lube my chain it is on the center stand and I rotate the tire, never noticed any odd sounds but haven't paid too much attention. Anyways just looked a video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQJhcfdsWTk

So will give that a whirl tomorrow. Anyways I hope it's the rear brake pad as Scott sugested earlier and reminded me that the rear brake pad was replaced during my chain replacement.

Ari's videos are great.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

And, when that is assembled it should be lubricated/coated with never seize.

It doesn't fit that tight, anti seize isn't needed and will just attract dirt....

Just nice and clean when assembling...

 

[Johnson]

Look close in the picture below.

I circled the SLOT, of the brake bracket (that your caliper bolts to). It SHOULD be slipped INTO a raised, "squarish" lip in the swing arm.

It should NOT be above or below it.

It is real easy to miss this when re-assembling.

One member did just this, tightened down the axle and BENT the bracket. This will cause misalignment and possible the bracket RUBBING up against the disc.

I am not exactly sure what I am looking for. I think I noticed (not sure) that initially the whining only occurred in the tail end of my ~ 50-minute commute but either it is getting worse or I am noticing it more earlier in my trip.

I took a few pics, do these help?

https://imgur.com/hlKQ52R
https://imgur.com/6sLehtM
https://imgur.com/veKWAJK

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

None show what I'm talking about. The first picture, there's only one pad, the bracket over to far to the right, something very screwy there.

Here ya go:



Those brake pins should NOT be rusty. There's also small rubber "accordions" the securing bolts go thru. Looks like the pins need to be removed, cleaned up of rust and the pins/accordions re-greased with brake specific grease

**The last picture, the anti squeal SS bracket -thin stainless steel-set inside the main, large bracket) APPEARS to be sticking out some / simply not seated correctly. Check that..(pull pad's) The SS bracket (circled), should fit snuggly in the MAIN, large bracket (yours appears to be sticking out-possibly rubbing on the disc):

 

[Johnson]

None show what I'm talking about. The first picture, there's only one pad, the bracket over to far to the right, something very screwy there.

Here ya go:



Those brake pins should NOT be rusty. There's also small rubber "accordions" the securing bolts go thru. Looks like the pins need to be removed, cleaned up of rust and the pins/accordions re-greased with brake specific grease

**The last picture, the anti squeal SS bracket -thin stainless steel-set inside the main, large bracket) APPEARS to be sticking out some / simply not seated correctly. Check that..(pull pad's) The SS bracket (circled), should fit snuggly in the MAIN, large bracket (yours appears to be sticking out-possibly rubbing on the disc):

So looks like I'm taking apart my rear brake af placing it back together? I'm not entirely comfortable with that but at least it's the rear brake and we all goes start somewhere?

Also is brake grease motorcycle specific?