Throttle sticking after VS02 Conversion

Circuitrider

Circuitrider

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I got the VS02 kit installed along with a HID projector. My throttle was sticking so while the air box and battery were out to route the wires for the HID, I adjusted the throttle. Of course once everything went back in and the VS02 kit was installed again, the throttle sticks open.

Do I assume there is a cable-routing problem? Do I adjust under the air box again? Thoughts?
 
Circuitrider said:
I got the VS02 kit installed along with a HID projector. My throttle was sticking so while the air box and battery were out to route the wires for the HID, I adjusted the throttle. Of course once everything went back in and the VS02 kit was installed again, the throttle sticks open.

Do I assume there is a cable-routing problem? Do I adjust under the air box again? Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Was the throttle sticking before any mods??

Or since the mod?

Did you re-route the cables at that time?
 
The throttle was sticking a bit after the mods. I didn't really touch the cable but now it is really bad--to the point that it's not safe to ride.
 
After my VS02 install, I had the same issue. :confused:

It's your cable-routing.. double check to make sure your cable bend radius are not too tight. Did you use any type of cable ties? if so, check that area.
 
VS02 + HID projector is tight. trust me - I had the same cable binding issues.


You'll want to route the cable differently, as said, farther forward will give it a bit more space. I don't remember the exact spot where mine was binding, but it definitely had some issues (my issues are also related to dropping my controls down onto clip ons). I would try and move your throttle cable so it runs directly behind the headlight, instead of through the mini wire frame.
 
I have had a vs02 headlight and now have a FZ1n headlight. I had the same problem in both cases but only when steered left completely. The throttle cables bends just outside the hole in the frame where the cables go. It wasn't so bad on the vs02 kit as there's a fair amount of space behind the headlight (I also had HID). It's worst on the FZ1n headlight and I don't have the thingy to pass the cables through. I still haven't been able to prevent the cables from sticking. I would be grateful if anyone can show how they solved this issue when converting to a naked setup.
 
But it should never get stuck when steering straight. If you are getting this all the time, I would recommend fixing it before riding... I'm sure you can imagine the consequences of the throttle sticking while riding.
 
Well shiz just got either easier or way more difficult. I was trying to get the cheap grip off the throttle tube and snapped the cable. I did notice when I adjusted the cable a couple days ago that there was a darker spot with a slight kink. I wasn't concerned at the time but that cable seems to have had some extensive wear.

So RonAyers has my order and I hope to get the cables in a few days. Now I can route the bas&#&*@S anyway I want! I'm going to try and sort the HID issue out (another thread) while I wait for the parts to ship.

I went ahead and got a throttle tamer too. Such is life, right?
 
Circuitrider said:
Well shiz just got either easier or way more difficult. I was trying to get the cheap grip off the throttle tube and snapped the cable. I did notice when I adjusted the cable a couple days ago that there was a darker spot with a slight kink. I wasn't concerned at the time but that cable seems to have had some extensive wear.

Such is life, right?
Click to expand...


Better to have it break in the garage than out in the middle of nowhere.. :thumbup:
 
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
Better to have it break in the garage than out in the middle of nowhere.. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

On that note - in the Concealed Carry class I took on Sunday, I met a guy who had a bad left hand from dumping his gixxer 1000 at 50 doing a wheelie. Go figure, right? He claims that he was up on his rear wheel when the throttle return cable snapped, by the time he got to the clutch he was already going over. Regardless of the fact that I would expect to see some kind of failsafe in that situation, and I wouldn't trust this guy for a second, it's definitely better to have faith in your cables.
 
lawlberg said:
On that note - in the Concealed Carry class I took on Sunday, I met a guy who had a bad left hand from dumping his gixxer 1000 at 50 doing a wheelie. Go figure, right? He claims that he was up on his rear wheel when the throttle return cable snapped, by the time he got to the clutch he was already going over. Regardless of the fact that I would expect to see some kind of failsafe in that situation, and I wouldn't trust this guy for a second, it's definitely better to have faith in your cables.
Click to expand...

If your PULL/accelerate cable is lubed and in good condition and everything working properly, you don't even need the return cable... Its simply for safety should your PULL cable jamb up (or something else fail)..

If his RETURN safety cable snapped (wheelie or not), that bike had some serious issues if it NEEEDED the return cable to shut the throttle. I suspect he got the wording of his cables mixed up or is just full of crap..


Just as a side note, if the return/safety/close cable is needed to close your throttle, you need to do some maintainance to your Pull cable (accelerate cable) as it should, open and allow to close the throttle by itself..

I'm guestamating now, but probably in the last 15-20 years, maybe more (lawsuit happy time), most manufaturers went to the dual cable set up.

From at least the early 70's, most carbed bikes were a single cable with the ONLY return spring being inside the carb(ie, slide throttles, Mikuni's-Yamaha RD's, YZ's. They worked fine. A 1980 Yamaha XS 650 verticle twin (like the old Triumps), I owned, had a similar "carb plate pull actuator" as the FZ but NO return cable..
 
Last edited:
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
If your PULL/accelerate cable is lubed and in good condition and everything working properly, you don't even need the return cable... Its simply for safety should your PULL cable jamb up (or something else fail)..

If his RETURN safety cable snapped (wheelie or not), that bike had some serious issues if it NEEEDED the return cable to shut the throttle. I suspect he got the wording of his cables mixed up or is just full of crap..


Just as a side note, if the return/safety/close cable is needed to close your throttle, you need to do some maintainance to your Pull cable (accelerate cable) as it should, open and allow to close the throttle by itself..

I'm guestamating now, but probably in the last 15-20 years, maybe more (lawsuit happy time), most manufaturers went to the dual cable set up.

From at least the early 70's, most carbed bikes were a single cable with the ONLY return spring being inside the carb(ie, slide throttles, Mikuni's-Yamaha RD's, YZ's. They worked fine. A 1980 Yamaha XS 650 verticle twin (like the old Triumps), I owned, had a similar "carb plate pull actuator" as the FZ but NO return cable..
Click to expand...

I'm with you on that one, I think he just dumped it and wanted something mechanical to help explain why he, being a highly skilled stunt rider, would have dumped his bike. :rolleyes:
 
Man, I thought your throttle felt a little tight but not "that" bad.... I developed a habit of rolling the clutch back on a crappy bike I used to have so I might not have noticed.
 
No worries, $20 and some new cables and all will be fine. Of course I got a throttle tamer for the new cables, haha. Now with the headlight fixed and the throttle sorted, I'm hoping to get back to just riding!
 
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