Sin12
New Member
Yeah hopefully but when I pulled the old pan no metal was found of any sort and yes it's off the bike...it's crazy that just that one gear is damaged thou..
Wha???? Them parts have to be somewhere. **Perhaps** previous owner had the pan off, removed the chunks and here she is for sale????
I worked in a transmission shop and have seen all kinds of carnage, chunks, bits, parts ect in the bottom. Gravity says thats where chunks go after they jump around on the spinning gears. *Someone* had the pan off, dumped the chunks and put it back. Most likely...
Do you have a service manual yet? PDF?
Replace the oil pump chain as cheap insurance as a chunk through a gear would stretch it. Also the grommit like seal that seals the oil pick up screen to the pump should be replaced so the pump doesn't suck air.
I worked in a transmission shop and have seen all kinds of carnage, chunks, bits, parts ect in the bottom. Gravity says thats where chunks go after they jump around on the spinning gears. *Someone* had the pan off, dumped the chunks and put it back. Most likely...
Do you have a service manual yet? PDF?
Replace the oil pump chain as cheap insurance as a chunk through a gear would stretch it. Also the grommit like seal that seals the oil pick up screen to the pump should be replaced so the pump doesn't suck air.
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2009
- Messages
- 12,532
- Reaction score
- 1,178
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cape Coral, Florida, USA
I'm not getting updates for some reason but yep, no problem finding the issue there, (jezzzzz!)
In post #4, you mentioned the "clutch gear" being damaged" . Is that something else or in addition to the GEARBOX itself..
Curious, how many miles on the bike and did you ever hear it run?
Are you splitting cases or going with a replacement engine?
Agreed with FI, someone removed those teeth, their too big to get lost and would have fell in the pan.
Sucks folks lie about this stuff...
** Thinking some more about this, before you go any further, I would do a "LEAK DOWN" test on the motor to see if the
engine itself is in good shape (the top end). If it doesn't pass, you know which way to "go".
I'd just like to add that I'd NEVER seen a gear, on the FZ (especially 3rd) break teeth like that. IE, it was very likely abused
hard to damage that gear. Thus, the reason for the leak down test
.
In post #4, you mentioned the "clutch gear" being damaged" . Is that something else or in addition to the GEARBOX itself..
Curious, how many miles on the bike and did you ever hear it run?
Are you splitting cases or going with a replacement engine?
Agreed with FI, someone removed those teeth, their too big to get lost and would have fell in the pan.
Sucks folks lie about this stuff...
** Thinking some more about this, before you go any further, I would do a "LEAK DOWN" test on the motor to see if the
engine itself is in good shape (the top end). If it doesn't pass, you know which way to "go".
I'd just like to add that I'd NEVER seen a gear, on the FZ (especially 3rd) break teeth like that. IE, it was very likely abused
hard to damage that gear. Thus, the reason for the leak down test
.
Last edited:
He's in $300, go for broke! But dang, breaking 2nd, one thing. Breaking 3rd, I'd think the clutch to be the weaker link!
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2009
- Messages
- 12,532
- Reaction score
- 1,178
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Agreed, 3rd??? And we've posted about the un-likely-hood of gear teeth failures. It DOES, obviously happen..
I would do that leak down test NEXT, to see if the tear down is worth it.
If it fails, it can easily be parted out for what he's got invested in it...(or another engine)
That engine should operate but without 3rd gear no?
I wouldn't personally. Its a constant mesh box so the input shaft and several other gears are in motion spinning even when in Neutral. While in gear all the others are floating but still in constant mesh and constant motion so it's just not worth it.... Well IMO.. .. .. I suppose you could start it in gear, just don't let the clutch out, but too late for that. Its apart...
#1 is the input shaft. The lone gear on the shaft is 1st gear, 5th/#3, 3rd&4th/#6, 6th/#8, and 2nd/#11.
How many miles on the bike and what is its general condition (aside from the grenaded trans)?
#1 is the input shaft. The lone gear on the shaft is 1st gear, 5th/#3, 3rd&4th/#6, 6th/#8, and 2nd/#11.
How many miles on the bike and what is its general condition (aside from the grenaded trans)?
Sin, FWIW: because the oil pump drives the water pump, I'm guessing the water pump shaft is holding your oil pump in place....
Sin12
New Member
Sorry guys I been at the ole 5 to 9 and just been able to get back at it... yeah after getting the chain off and replaced I started it and also rode it well tried to ride it around the yard...engine sounds strong and has good pressure...got the oil pump off all bolts that I can see that would hold it and still have yet to split the case other then a 100 buck used gearbox I think for the money I stole it...need help with splitting it it has no points on case that I see where a tool can be used to split it and don't want to take a flat head prying at it... help S.O.S
Sin12
New Member
Sin12
New Member
I have totally redone the bike color lights and wheels.. Was working on the rest after all the bike supposed to mechanics kept blowing me off about fixing it I decided to just dive into it myself now...she would love to be on the rode just need surgery...lol... help her please S.O.S
Attachments
Sin12
New Member
But I can get a complete used gear box off the bay for under a 100 bucks and just install it as a unit right or find a used engine and be done with it all???
Sin12
New Member
It had I want to say 30,000 I think but it ran strong and hard when I fired her up just that dang gearbox jacked up I even tried riding her she has the power still but I think when the chain broke and jammed itself it damaged those teeth they look more mangled then broke by the way..
Sin12
New Member
Yeah local bike salvage yard wants 900 plus my old drive train.. I think that's a rip off being that you want my engine too
Sin12
New Member
Clutch looked fine when I removed it no burn marks nothing broken unless it was replace by previous owner thinking that was the problem alone.. Humm
This bearing retainer is locking the cases together... it must come off...
3 torx caps...
FWIW the water pump shaft is still in there. One bolt holds it together (no need to take it apart), the other three secure the complete assembly to the case.... removing the entire pump will make oil pump install a lot easier...
3 torx caps...
FWIW the water pump shaft is still in there. One bolt holds it together (no need to take it apart), the other three secure the complete assembly to the case.... removing the entire pump will make oil pump install a lot easier...
Sin12
New Member
Those 3 hex bolts right????
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2009
- Messages
- 12,532
- Reaction score
- 1,178
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Sin12
New Member
I have one that I downloaded but it really doesn't help that much
It does tell you the proper order and what needs to be done.
From the pic I can't tell if those 3 bolts on the bearing retainer are allen cap or torx but they are bolting the case halves together.
Once all bolts are free, sealant keeps it from leaking on the perimeter. So that *glue* if you will, will have a mechanical bond holding it together.
From the pic I can't tell if those 3 bolts on the bearing retainer are allen cap or torx but they are bolting the case halves together.
Once all bolts are free, sealant keeps it from leaking on the perimeter. So that *glue* if you will, will have a mechanical bond holding it together.
Sin12
New Member
Those 3 bolts have been remove now tell me how to remove the cover it's seems to turn a Lil but will not come off
