removing front tire.........?

[fazer.rider]

hi, is there a thread on how to do this? i can't fine it :spank:

thanks

 

[scoobydrvr]

It's a little tricky, but can be done with common tools. Give me about 20 minutes and i'll post pictures.

 

[scoobydrvr]

Tools you will need:
-Scissor jack (or any jack of some sort)
-5/8" spark plug socket
-3/4" wrench
-12mm socket and ratchet (or wrench if you like working slow)
View attachment 22378

First, put the bike up on the center stand and lock the handle bars. Then, place the jack on the #2 or #3 header pipe and lift the bike until the rear wheel is on the ground. If you're using the scissor jack, line up the notch with the header pipe so it won't be prone to slide on the surface of the jack. Don't lift it too much though. I haven't decided one way or another, but I think if you compress the rear spring you could be creating an unstable condition.
View attachment 22379

Next remove the bolts shown on the image below (they're already loose in the image) using the 12mm socket. DO NOT squeeze the front brake at this point. The brake pads will squeeze together and the calipers will not go back on the rotor.
View attachment 22380
Once the calipers are loose, you can rotate them and get them off of the rotor (counter clockwise for the left side, clockwise for the right side). Just let them hang and DON'T SQUEEZE THE FRONT BRAKE!!!

There's a pinch bolt that needs to be loosened at the end of the fork leg before attempting to turn the axle CCW to loosen. Don't forget that, and tighten up again after the axle is back on.
Now you'll get to use the spark plug socket. On the drive side of the socket, there is a 3/4" allen head that fits quite nicely into the axle pin (shown here).
View attachment 22381
Here is where it gets tricky: pull the socket out just enough to squeeze the 3/4" wrench between it and the fork. Now you should be able to remove the axle pin.
View attachment 22382

Don't get discouraged if it takes forever for the pin to come out, the threads are really fine and quite long. Simply reverse the process to get the tire back on. When replacing the tire on the forks, pay careful attention to the direction of rotation on the tire. Also, there are bearings on either side of the wheel. Don't worry if they fall off, they slip right back into place. I'm not sure if it matters, but I'm always careful to put them back on the side they fell off of.
When tightening the axle pin, use the same amount of torque to tighten the pin that you used to break it free. The manual has a specific value for this, but you can't use a torque wrench with this configuration.
View attachment 22383

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

[CCHOUSEKY]

This method is creative, but I'm not sure it's the best way to go.

First, a scissor jack under the header pipes? I know there's a plate under there and you're not going to damage the pipes, but why balance the bike on such a small footprint? A better method, if you don't have a wheel stand, is to put the bike on the centerstand and put some sort of weight on the rear seat, so the bike rests on the rear wheel. I find that a bag of concrete or something of equivalent weight works well.

Another thing, there's absolutely no reason to remove the caliper bolts. None. It won't cause any problems if you remove it, but it's just an unnecessary step. Just loosen the front wheel nut, remove the axle, and slide the wheel out (and the rotor out of the caliper). Nothing to it.

 

[scoobydrvr]

I never thought about just leaving the calipers... good eye. As far as the scissor jack, it's very similar to what the dealership uses, they just have the benefit of someting specially made that disributes the force over a larger surface.

 

[Spideyrex]

Pushing up on the header made me nervous too,so when I took the front off a few months ago, I hooked a couple of backpacks filled with books and strapped a 5 gallon gas jug(with water) onto the grab rails. This tilted the back on the centerstand so I was free to work on the front. Easy and pretty stable.

 

[bd43]

Tools you will need:
-Scissor jack (or any jack of some sort)
-5/8" spark plug socket
-3/4" wrench
-12mm socket and ratchet (or wrench if you like working slow)
View attachment 22378

First, put the bike up on the center stand and lock the handle bars. Then, place the jack on the #2 or #3 header pipe and lift the bike until the rear wheel is on the ground. If you're using the scissor jack, line up the notch with the header pipe so it won't be prone to slide on the surface of the jack. Don't lift it too much though. I haven't decided one way or another, but I think if you compress the rear spring you could be creating an unstable condition.
View attachment 22379

Next remove the bolts shown on the image below (they're already loose in the image) using the 12mm socket. DO NOT squeeze the front brake at this point. The brake pads will squeeze together and the calipers will not go back on the rotor.
View attachment 22380
Once the calipers are loose, you can rotate them and get them off of the rotor (counter clockwise for the left side, clockwise for the right side). Just let them hang and DON'T SQUEEZE THE FRONT BRAKE!!!

Now you'll get to use the spark plug socket. On the drive side of the socket, there is a 3/4" allen head that fits quite nicely into the axle pin (shown here).
View attachment 22381
Here is where it gets tricky: pull the socket out just enough to squeeze the 3/4" wrench between it and the fork. Now you should be able to remove the axle pin.
View attachment 22382

Don't get discouraged if it takes forever for the pin to come out, the threads are really fine and quite long. Simply reverse the process to get the tire back on. When replacing the tire on the forks, pay careful attention to the direction of rotation on the tire. Also, there are bearings on either side of the wheel. Don't worry if they fall off, they slip right back into place. I'm not sure if it matters, but I'm always careful to put them back on the side they fell off of.
When tightening the axle pin, use the same amount of torque to tighten the pin that you used to break it free. The manual has a specific value for this, but you can't use a torque wrench with this configuration.
View attachment 22383

Hope this helps and best of luck!

There's a pinch bolt that needs to be loosened at the end of the leg before attempting to turn the axle CCW to loosen. Don't forget that, and tighten up again after the axle is back on.

P.S. When I removed my front wheel, I did not get the wheel to clear the calipers. They need to come off. If you plan to use a torque wrench, take off the reflectors first before attaching a socket to the top caliper bolts otherwise you can run the risk of stressing the reflectors and possibly breaking them.

 

[abacall]

Forgot a step!!! Loosen the fork clamp bolt before trying to loosen the axle.

Another thing, there's absolutely no reason to remove the caliper bolts. None. It won't cause any problems if you remove it, but it's just an unnecessary step. Just loosen the front wheel nut, remove the axle, and slide the wheel out (and the rotor out of the caliper). Nothing to it.

You sure? I tried this yesterday and the wheel didn't come off without taking off the calipers. They pinched the wheel in place. Hard to explain, but the calipers were inside the rim of the wheel and the width of the rim could not squeeze between the calipers.


EDIT: Ninja post BD!

 

[scoobydrvr]

Forgot a step!!! Loosen the fork clamp bolt before trying to loosen the axle.

There's a pinch bolt that needs to be loosened at the end of the leg before attempting to turn the axle CCW to loosen. Don't forget that, and tighten up again after the axle is back on.

Oops... I knew I wasn't firing on all cylinders today... Thanks for the catch guys, Now I need to go make sure mine is tight...

 

[DefyInertia]

You definitely need to take off one caliper.

I posted a How To: thread about this a couple years ago that shows another method.

 

[fazer.rider]

thanks for all the posts folks :thumbup: i will try this soon. this makes me wish all bikes have single sided swingarms and folks lol

 

[Speedygonzales]

Why not loosen all the bolts before putting the bike up with the jack.
Just so there are loose enough for easy screw-out.

No brute force when your bike is "unstabel" in the air.

 

[abacall]

Oh yeah! One last thing....

When putting the pinch bolt back in, make sure you squeeze the fork tubes toward each other to take up the horizontal freeplay on the axle. They (at least mine do) have a tendedncy to pull outward (1/8") and if you tighten the pinch bolt in that position you will have play in the bearing. This caused the front wheel to vibrate under hard braking and a loose feeling in the steering. Caused me a small headache until I found the culprit.

 

[abacall]

You definitely need to take off one caliper.

I posted a How To: thread about this a couple years ago that shows another method.

Linky? It may help the OP.

 

[Maverick]

I prefer to use a front wheel stand in conjunction with the center stand on a piece of plywood. That way I don't have to worry about weighting the seat or jacking from the header. The bike is very stable this way while you are off getting a new tire or whatever you are doing. The reason for the plywood under the center stand is to get the front wheel off the ground; otherwise, it just touches the concrete floor.

One can also print out the pages from the shop manual available on the fourm as well which worked well once I had the spark plug socket improvised axle tool figured out.

 

[trougnouf]

I'm stuck, I took off all the bolts the manual mentioned, but I can't get the axle to slide out.
There is a huge bolt looking thing on one side of the axle, am I supposed to unscrew that? If yes, what size is it / what tool should I get?

 

[crazydmc]

...
Here is where it gets tricky: pull the socket out just enough to squeeze the 3/4" wrench between it and the fork. Now you should be able to remove the axle pin.
View attachment 22382
...

I was able to get a 3/8" extension to fit into the spark plug socket backwards...

 

[trougnouf]

Thank you
They didn't have the right size at Pep Boys, I first tried a 5/8" that didn't even fit on my wrench, it was too big.
I returned it and got a 18mm instead, this one fit on my wrench (1/2) but it was too small, I stuck a flathead screwdriver in it and it moved. The front wheel is off and I will get the rear tomorrow when there is enough light.

 

[Norbert]

It may be worth using the right tool for the job, especially when you torque the axle back in.

You can buy the hex bit online here:
McMaster-Carr
19mm
Part Number: 5571A79
It was $19.21 shipped. I ordered on a Sunday and got it on Tuesday. They ship from NJ.
Not too pricey if you think of the cost savings of doing a tire change yourself.
And of course the great thing about good tools is that they last for a long time, so it all amortizes.

 

[MG-242]

I searched for reliable info also, and found this thread also. I'll add my $.02 since I changed both ends last weekend due to a freakin' flat, the first in 42 yrs of riding so I can't really complain!!! I put the Michelin 2CT's on since I had a pretty good set lying around the garage left over from track days where I only wore the sides . These are excellent tires!!!

First off, ever drop a bike in the garage? Buy quality stands - front and rear. I particularly like everything that Pit Bull has. The best in quality. Next, oops - I guess the Yamaha engineers fell asleep when the selected the size and mounting for the little reflectors and how they match up with the caliber mounting bolts. You can't get a socket on the to torque them. Unfortunately, the little reflectors went to the trash.

What I was really looking for in this thread were torque specs. Did I really read to tighten the bolts up with about the same force that it took to remove them? Really? If you're going to work on your motorcycle, buy a torque wrench or take it to someone who knows how to use one.

Yep, remove the calibers. It makes the job so much easier.

Yep, buy the 19mm allen - the right tool for the right job!

IIRC, Torques are:
Front axle - 52 lb ft
Front axle pinch bolt - 17 lb ft
Caliber bolts - 29 lb ft
Rear axle - 87 lb ft (this really surprised me).

Thanks boneman for the link to the service manual!!