Question on throttle body sync

[seansi]

They (as long as they are real vacuum restrictors) will not block off all air. They are supposed to decrease flow rates so subtle variations don't cause your meter to go crazy.

Here's what they look like and if I'm reading this right, they go into the end that goes into to TB correct?

 

[ChanceCoats123]

I've never seen them like that before. The ones I have on my manometer are in-line fittings and have the restrictor inside.

 

[FinalImpact]

Here's what they look like and if I'm reading this right, they go into the end that goes into to TB correct?

^^ yes. Just put them in tapered end first. They likely have a 0.020" to 0.030" hole in them.

The reduction in size slows the gauges activity reaction/response so it doesnt pulse rapidly with intake stroke of engine cylinder. Without them, gauge will move radically...

What is the white barb? Does it have connecting holes in it?

 

[seansi]

^^ yes. Just put them in tapered end first. They likely have a 0.020" to 0.030" hole in them.

The reduction in size slows the gauges activity reaction/response so it doesnt pulse rapidly with intake stroke of engine cylinder. Without them, gauge will move radically...

What is the white barb? Does it have connecting holes in it?

Yes, the synch tool has to be calibrated before each use, using TB #1

Do I have to pull the air box too or is it enough raising the tank?

 

[FinalImpact]

No, no need to remove air box. Plus it changes the conditions ever so slightly...

For the purpose of identification:
The outer sync ports left to right (from rear of vehicle) have pink stripe on 1 and 4:
Shown is 3 & 4:

Here you can see the NORMAL position (3 are visible): Air box off for other reasons...

If you have a vacuum gauge that reads real values, its best to use that unless the device your using reads it. Then the goal is still 218mmHg (8.6inHg) at the sync ports or one common gauge to vacuum sensor to ECU.