Before I do my dyno run I'm keen to try some of the Power Commander maps. Does anyone know if I use the regular versions of the maps, or the "European" version?
The numbers are dramatically different.
The numbers are dramatically different.
Power Commander - PC Maps
- Thread starter Bikebiz
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Ok done the Euro version, fingers crossed 
. I'm surprised how different the numbers are for the 'stock pipe, stock filter' map, so expecting a decent change. Will report back.
. I'm surprised how different the numbers are for the 'stock pipe, stock filter' map, so expecting a decent change. Will report back.
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I'm installing my PCIII in about 3 weeks. Keep us informed :thumbup:
opcorn:
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Well about 10mins to put it in. Hardest things was trying to weave the loom through the nooks and crannys! Plugged it all in and it starts so that's a start
I've dumped the stock Euro map in just to see, as you can see there is quite a change in the numbers hey. Can't wait to take it for a spin in a couple of hours. Will report back tonight.
Then the pipes are due Thursday-ish so hopefully will have more to report on then.
I've dumped the stock Euro map in just to see, as you can see there is quite a change in the numbers hey. Can't wait to take it for a spin in a couple of hours. Will report back tonight.
Then the pipes are due Thursday-ish so hopefully will have more to report on then.
Righto then, made it home I was initially scared because I'd heard a few horror stories on this thread. Well it was no worries. Idled perfectly, and rode without issue. Nice.
So get this. Fairly big difference on a stock bike. As expected the dip is less pronounced at the 4k mark. Initially it felt slower because you don't get that hit at whatever it is, like 6.5k. It's just smooth all the way. The numbers increase faster though. I have a few marker points between lights on my run home and was hitting higher speeds between them (a good test).
The main advantage I found was that I could sit behind a slower car at 5k then gun it to overtake into a gap, and the power was more instant which I like. I also found that on a hard accelleration in 1st, if you change quickly then dump the clutch and give it full gas, it really hits when you engage 2nd.
So all up I'm giving this a two thumbs up, even on a stock bike. I reckon if you were on a budget and wanted some power and noise, you could go airbox mod, cat elim pipe and used Power Commander for about $300 all up and either tinker or dyno it for some respectable gains.
So the Euro map seemed to work well, I'm still wondering why such a difference to the non-specified version. Eg at TP = 10 and 2,000rpm the Euro does a -7% change, and the other (I assume US version) +25%. That's huge!
I was initially scared because I'd heard a few horror stories on this thread. Well it was no worries. Idled perfectly, and rode without issue. Nice. So get this. Fairly big difference on a stock bike. As expected the dip is less pronounced at the 4k mark. Initially it felt slower because you don't get that hit at whatever it is, like 6.5k. It's just smooth all the way. The numbers increase faster though. I have a few marker points between lights on my run home and was hitting higher speeds between them (a good test).
The main advantage I found was that I could sit behind a slower car at 5k then gun it to overtake into a gap, and the power was more instant which I like. I also found that on a hard accelleration in 1st, if you change quickly then dump the clutch and give it full gas, it really hits when you engage 2nd.
So all up I'm giving this a two thumbs up, even on a stock bike. I reckon if you were on a budget and wanted some power and noise, you could go airbox mod, cat elim pipe and used Power Commander for about $300 all up and either tinker or dyno it for some respectable gains.
So the Euro map seemed to work well, I'm still wondering why such a difference to the non-specified version. Eg at TP = 10 and 2,000rpm the Euro does a -7% change, and the other (I assume US version) +25%. That's huge!
bushboarder
moved on up
I thought I read somewhere that supposedly Euro fuel makes bikes run richer. I could be mistaken though, it wouldn't be the first time...
That would make sense, seeing as there's quite a lot of minus signs along the chart. Well won't be on for much longer anyway. I'm tempted to simply take all figures and add 5%, just to see what happens
Kriswithak
Senior Member
I think you will find the pollution laws in europe are ALOT stricter so they have to run alot leaner? Could be wrong though.
I honestly found very little difference trying out the different maps when I put it in, around my area at least. I do have an aftermarket exhaust without the proper map for it however, since the last quote I got for a map was $800. (more than my exhaust lol)
Not sure what you mean by horror stories though, can't say I've ever heard anything bad about a PC that wasn't totally user error.
I honestly found very little difference trying out the different maps when I put it in, around my area at least. I do have an aftermarket exhaust without the proper map for it however, since the last quote I got for a map was $800. (more than my exhaust lol)
Not sure what you mean by horror stories though, can't say I've ever heard anything bad about a PC that wasn't totally user error.
Oh yeah the stories I refer to are from those that haven't been able to set it up, be it an installation issue or incorrect map (just a guess). Never heard any hardware issues.
You (or anyone else here) would be welcome to my custom map once it's complete if you'd like to try it. Although I suspect the LeoV system should have quite a different map to the M4s.
You (or anyone else here) would be welcome to my custom map once it's complete if you'd like to try it. Although I suspect the LeoV system should have quite a different map to the M4s.
Kriswithak
Senior Member
Yea the problem I have is M4's aren't common and mine have custom tips in them meaning a normal map wouldn't be 100% accurate
Can I just say.......that my LEOVINCE PIPES FINALLY ARRIVED!!!!
I've torn open the box, and strategically wedged the entire kit into my "backack that holds all", ready to come home with me for installation. Got my Dynojet map ready to upload to the PC3, and got the link from this forum on the LV install all set to go.
Fingers crossed the alignment doesn't give me too much grief, and can't wait to go for a roost
I've torn open the box, and strategically wedged the entire kit into my "backack that holds all", ready to come home with me for installation. Got my Dynojet map ready to upload to the PC3, and got the link from this forum on the LV install all set to go.
Fingers crossed the alignment doesn't give me too much grief, and can't wait to go for a roost
Kriswithak
Senior Member
Let us know how they go! Video would be appreciated
Hey I'll have to shoot a vid. Summary - they took me 3 hours to install! About an hour to get on, then 2 hours swearing and trying to get everything aligned. Just when you think you have it nabbed, you go to put the tail on and the nose doesn't fit through the two pipes. So off you go again. Washers to space it up, then the seat doesn't sit flush. Urgh. And the rubber trim on the exhaust hangers makes it very hard to manipulate them.
In the end they're 'good enough' in terms of alignment, might have another go one weekend.
Then it took me a while (and some forum searching) to then realise that the Power Commander needs the motor running to sync. I thought ignition would be enough.
Then I ran it in to work this morning and OH GOD! They're looouuuuuddddd. Like, crazy loud. I'm talking DB killers are in, and it's obnoxious. Maybe I'm getting old
Perhaps I've got some air leaks that will close up with some heat cycling? They just seem to drone at 3.5k to 4k, then they're good, then the drone kicks in at 6k etc. I feel like I'm riding around the pipes just to get to a level that's comfy. It's fine while you're accellerating or sitting over 80km/hr, but around thicker traffic where you have to cruise at 40, then at 60, then stop at lights etc it's fairly harsh. I expected less noise with the DB killers in!
It's a shame you can't keep the stock cat pipe in place, that would probably help hey. Maybe I just need to get used to them, or HTFU
Power-wise, I can feel a slightly better throttle response when you hit it to overtake, but overall power doesn't feel significantly different. This is with a PC map though....
Will post some pics and vids on the weekend.
In the end they're 'good enough' in terms of alignment, might have another go one weekend.
Then it took me a while (and some forum searching) to then realise that the Power Commander needs the motor running to sync. I thought ignition would be enough.
Then I ran it in to work this morning and OH GOD! They're looouuuuuddddd. Like, crazy loud. I'm talking DB killers are in, and it's obnoxious. Maybe I'm getting old
Perhaps I've got some air leaks that will close up with some heat cycling? They just seem to drone at 3.5k to 4k, then they're good, then the drone kicks in at 6k etc. I feel like I'm riding around the pipes just to get to a level that's comfy. It's fine while you're accellerating or sitting over 80km/hr, but around thicker traffic where you have to cruise at 40, then at 60, then stop at lights etc it's fairly harsh. I expected less noise with the DB killers in!
It's a shame you can't keep the stock cat pipe in place, that would probably help hey. Maybe I just need to get used to them, or HTFU
Power-wise, I can feel a slightly better throttle response when you hit it to overtake, but overall power doesn't feel significantly different. This is with a PC map though....
Will post some pics and vids on the weekend.
bushboarder
moved on up
Did you try putting the disc in the cat elim pipe?Then I ran it in to work this morning and OH GOD! They're looouuuuuddddd. Like, crazy loud. I'm talking DB killers are in, and it's obnoxious. Maybe I'm getting old
Perhaps I've got some air leaks that will close up with some heat cycling? They just seem to drone at 3.5k to 4k, then they're good, then the drone kicks in at 6k etc. I feel like I'm riding around the pipes just to get to a level that's comfy. It's fine while you're accellerating or sitting over 80km/hr, but around thicker traffic where you have to cruise at 40, then at 60, then stop at lights etc it's fairly harsh. I expected less noise with the DB killers in!
It's a shame you can't keep the stock cat pipe in place, that would probably help hey. Maybe I just need to get used to them, or HTFU
see this thread post #96 for a pic: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/8759-leo-vince-install-10.html
I saw the disc in the thread, but not in my pack. Good point, might ask the supplier.
edit: found the disc, wedged in a bit of cardboard at the very side. Lucky I didn't throw it out! Supplier said this is not so much another sound killer, but a spark arrester mainly for the US market. But should reduce noise, I'll pop it in and see how it goes.
edit: found the disc, wedged in a bit of cardboard at the very side. Lucky I didn't throw it out! Supplier said this is not so much another sound killer, but a spark arrester mainly for the US market. But should reduce noise, I'll pop it in and see how it goes.
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Put the spark arrester in and on idle, sounds just like what the Dr ordered. Yet to ride though which will be conclusive for me. Still rough and raspy (nice) but about 70% of the volume.
Also, going back to my OP, the bike needs the standard maps, not the European model maps. Had confirmation today, and so loaded up the amended map for the LV pipes. Far far far better. The thing is ultra responsive now. You don't notice it easily because it's so much smoother, but it doesn't matter what rpm you are at (as long as you're over 4k) it just hauls when you call on it. I also found tonight that a steep hill near my place that requires you shift from 6th to 4th, I could now run in 5th - so it's definitely pulling harder. Sweet action.
Will post tomorrow when I've had another run but am hopeful this is the setup I'll run with. And once confirmed, will do the custom mapping.
Also, going back to my OP, the bike needs the standard maps, not the European model maps. Had confirmation today, and so loaded up the amended map for the LV pipes. Far far far better. The thing is ultra responsive now. You don't notice it easily because it's so much smoother, but it doesn't matter what rpm you are at (as long as you're over 4k) it just hauls when you call on it. I also found tonight that a steep hill near my place that requires you shift from 6th to 4th, I could now run in 5th - so it's definitely pulling harder. Sweet action.
Will post tomorrow when I've had another run but am hopeful this is the setup I'll run with. And once confirmed, will do the custom mapping.
A few pics from the install, including a shot of the inside of the cat converter, and the new spark arrester installed.
The verdict? Haaaaaaa! It's too quiet now! Of course it is.
It's probably 10% louder than stock now. Of course it's raspier and rough so sounds better anyway, it still revs more freely, but it's also robbed my precious power.
Damn you, power-robbing disc of death.
So I guess the sensible option now is to drill it out to see if I can reach a happy medium. Took about an hour to change it so not too bad.
It's probably 10% louder than stock now. Of course it's raspier and rough so sounds better anyway, it still revs more freely, but it's also robbed my precious power.
Damn you, power-robbing disc of death.
So I guess the sensible option now is to drill it out to see if I can reach a happy medium. Took about an hour to change it so not too bad.
We've just finished the dyno run and custom map on my bike. A video link will follow which runs through exactly how it's done (give me a few days!).
What was interesting is that my previous setup with the Dynojet map for my bike setup was 3hp down on the custom map we ended up with. Their map was too rich (see A/F graph, red line is 'before'). Unfortunately we didn't get a run with a zero map.
The magic number for my bike now? 92hp
Note the 2nd graph shows a run at 20% throttle. This illustrates the most significant changes that the custom map created. As mentioned, the A/F ratio was way out.
If anyone would like this map please PM me, I'm happy to pass on. To repeat the specs of my bike and the dyno run:
09 FZ6N
LeoVince pipes with cat elim pipe
Baffles in
Mild airbox mod
AIS plugged up
Oxygen sensor removed
Temp = 23C
Humidity = 6%
One last comment. We did a power run with the baffles removed (most of you know I ride with them in). Removed yielded no HP gain whatsoever with the above setup, indicating there are obviously other areas hindering the performance benefits of their removal. Handy info if you're unsure about riding with them in or out. I feel better knowing I'm not missing out on any power by keeping it a bit softer.
What was interesting is that my previous setup with the Dynojet map for my bike setup was 3hp down on the custom map we ended up with. Their map was too rich (see A/F graph, red line is 'before'). Unfortunately we didn't get a run with a zero map.
The magic number for my bike now? 92hp
Note the 2nd graph shows a run at 20% throttle. This illustrates the most significant changes that the custom map created. As mentioned, the A/F ratio was way out.
If anyone would like this map please PM me, I'm happy to pass on. To repeat the specs of my bike and the dyno run:
09 FZ6N
LeoVince pipes with cat elim pipe
Baffles in
Mild airbox mod
AIS plugged up
Oxygen sensor removed
Temp = 23C
Humidity = 6%
One last comment. We did a power run with the baffles removed (most of you know I ride with them in). Removed yielded no HP gain whatsoever with the above setup, indicating there are obviously other areas hindering the performance benefits of their removal. Handy info if you're unsure about riding with them in or out. I feel better knowing I'm not missing out on any power by keeping it a bit softer.
Kriswithak
Senior Member
Very interesting stuff! I'm assuming you got your map done at work, but what would it normally cost to get one done??
Also very nice to hear the spark arrestor doesn't actually cut down on the power, and just the noise!
I think going from a stock to the custom exhaust the difference in volume is huge, and some nights when its late I still ride to try and minimise the amount of noise I'm creating. You get used to it however and for general riding its not an issue unless you find the noise really really bad personally (earplugs help for long rides - but I find its more the wind than the exhaust thats an issue).
The general perspective I have gotten from friends and family in cars is that the volume is cut down hugely because they are in an steel box. (or aluminium if its like my excel).
I find the biggest advantage is that even the dullest and dumbest pedestrian has a hard time ignoring your presence with the custom exhausts, some still try, but most seem to equate a loud exhaust with death and actually look before stepping out.
Also very nice to hear the spark arrestor doesn't actually cut down on the power, and just the noise!
I think going from a stock to the custom exhaust the difference in volume is huge, and some nights when its late I still ride to try and minimise the amount of noise I'm creating. You get used to it however and for general riding its not an issue unless you find the noise really really bad personally (earplugs help for long rides - but I find its more the wind than the exhaust thats an issue).
The general perspective I have gotten from friends and family in cars is that the volume is cut down hugely because they are in an steel box. (or aluminium if its like my excel).
I find the biggest advantage is that even the dullest and dumbest pedestrian has a hard time ignoring your presence with the custom exhausts, some still try, but most seem to equate a loud exhaust with death and actually look before stepping out.
