My bike evidently came with a coolant reservoir - now what?

cmantis

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I don't know if its my old age or just complete ignorance but I just noticed my coolant reservoir on my bike. Since I obviously never touched it before and in trying to shine a flashlight in there I am pretty sure it is empty. How do I go about filling it and what to use? Pretend I am stupid.

I found this on another forum:

Here's my procedure which has worked for me every time:
1- Remove radiator cap.
2- Remove drain screw on water pump housing, drain coolant.
3- Replace screw, add 2 oz. Water Wetter to radiator and top off with tap water. LEAVE RADIATOR CAP OFF!
4- Using a wet/dry Shop-Vac, remove coolant from reservoir tank. Add 1 capful of Water Wetter to reservoir, top off reservoir to "Full" mark with tap water.
5- Start motor, let it idle until it reaches 2 bars on the display (or 170°F if you have an 2007 model). Shut motor off.
6- Top off radiator with water if needed, close cap.

System has now been changed and bled of air, ready to ride. I have followed these basic steps on every water-cooled bike I have ever worked on with no problems at all.
 
The above procedure is for changing out the coolant fully from the cooling system.

What year is your bike?

The 04-06's have the tank under the seat, 07 and up, behind the header in front of the block.

In either case, have the bike on the centerstand, you should see two marks on the plastic tank(high and low). If the tank is badly faded, pull the cap and slip a screwdriver into the tank while holding your finger at the top of the tank. Take note of the level on the screw driver, place it next to the marks and add if needed.

I use pre-mixed 50/50 Prestone but just about any anti-freeze you use in your cage will work (see below).

If you need an owners manual for an 07 and up, PM me as I have it as a PDF file..

If your looking to change out the entire coolant in the system, its some what similar as posted about, some of his procedures, water wetter in the coolant and sucking it out(???), filling, using tap water (NO) etc, are not clear and somewhat, don't make sense..

BTW, if you could post the year bike as a signature or under your username, it'd help in the future as there are some minor differences beteen the S1 and S2..
 
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DO NOT EVER USE TAP WATER IN YOUR COOLING SYSTEM!!!!!!!:eek:

Well, I guess you can flush with it as long as you get it all out.:rolleyes:

It will, most definitely, rot your system over time. And the more conductive the water is (mineral content) the higher chance your electrical system can arc through the coolant producing electrolysis that further erodes metal.

But, mostly, the rot; the heat exchanger (radiator, heater core) will be the first to go.
 
Only if you plan on keeping your coolant in there for several years. I usually do a flush and fill every 1-2 years. My preference anyways. Using giant bolded text will not deter me anyways.

The electrolytes in anti freeze can rot radiators and heater cores. Rest is simple wear and tear like your hoses.
 
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Its an 05. I know a few years ago my mechanic did it but I totally forgot about it. So sounds like premix, add, good to go right?
 
I used to repair medical electronic equipment which included everything from exam tables to blood cell counters, to chemistry analyzers. EKG equipment! Lol!

Also autoclaves. Autoclaves (sterilizers) are equipment that has a tank that is filled with distilled water and then a heater heats the water creating a steam. The autoclave must heat the water to 260 deg.F but since water boils at 212 deg.F the tank must be sealed to reach 260 deg.F Sometimes I would get units that had micro-fractures in the tanks. These micro-fractures were cause by chlorine contamination resulting in doctor's offices that thought they were saving money by not using distilled water.

Tap water may cause other problems that are not just mineral problems. Use distilled water. Maybe tap water is okay to use when flushing but if you should need to add water use distilled. Most coolants today are already mixed to the proper 50:50 for your bike anyway.
 
I had my friend pick some up for me as there are no shops near me and im always working late. I told him 50/50 but evidently the guy at the shop (also a rider) said to get regular which he got. Is this ok?
 
I had my friend pick some up for me as there are no shops near me and im always working late. I told him 50/50 but evidently the guy at the shop (also a rider) said to get regular which he got. Is this ok?

Yes, but mix it at 50% distilled water with 50% anti-freeze for best results..

I'm assuming its full strenth, glycol, anti-freeze, NOT PRE-MIXED, motorcycle anti-freeze
 
This is what he got

Prestone extended life antifreeze/coolant.

Supposedly he told him 50/50 was watered down (duh) and if I ride hard (which I do) to get this. That he used to race etc etc.
 
This is what he got

Prestone extended life antifreeze/coolant.

Supposedly he told him 50/50 was watered down (duh) and if I ride hard (which I do) to get this. That he used to race etc etc.


Agreed, its fine, actually likely the same product, just at 100%. Just mix with distilled water at 1:1.

The Prestone 50/50 I currently have, is supposed to have a 5 year life span. I'd still change it way before that, usually about two years. Doesn't take 20 minutes to drain and re-fill. Especially if you keep on top of it, it won't need flushing..
 
But they needs Fluoride for Strong Teeth! Blah

Personally I oppose PRE-MIX as dry fill is NOT the same volume as a flush because you can't get ALL the COOLANT (water) out and your premix is now diluted! Just saying pay attention to what really comes out. Some times it matters.
  • Lets say the bike holds 2 liters.
  • Lets say you only drain out 1.5 liters and Add back 1.5 of Pre Mix. It is no longer 50/50, which may reduce your boiling point and rust/corrosion inhibitors needed to last 2 - 4 years.
During flush and fill measure what comes out from FULL. Do the math and mix your concentrate w/distilled. JM2C
 
But they needs Fluoride for Strong Teeth! Blah

Personally I oppose PRE-MIX as dry fill is NOT the same volume as a flush because you can't get ALL the COOLANT (water) out and your premix is now diluted! Just saying pay attention to what really comes out. Some times it matters.
  • Lets say the bike holds 2 liters.
  • Lets say you only drain out 1.5 liters and Add back 1.5 of Pre Mix. It is no longer 50/50, which may reduce your boiling point and rust/corrosion inhibitors needed to last 2 - 4 years.
During flush and fill measure what comes out from FULL. Do the math and mix your concentrate w/distilled. JM2C

Agreed with the above but he (from what I gathered) was just topping off his overflow tank..
 
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