Motodynamics Integrated tail light question

So when the motodynamics lights are installed you loose your stock turn signals?? I'd think have both running would be more visible. I have stock turn signals and no fender eliminator kit. Was going to get the motodynamics light but want it to have all its functions work as well as have my stock turn signals work. Is it not possible unless you have to start splicing stuff up?
 
The hazards still work since my rear blinkers are directly connected to the harness with all stock connectors.

If you want to have both the integrated turn signals and the stock turn signals, you'll need to wire the left and right turn signal wires to both. I've not looked up the typical load for this circuit, but realize that connecting both could overload the signal circuit when both the LED's and the regular bulb power up.
 
In relation to the question of having both hooked up. You should be safe. Check the relay first but the large majority of flasher relays are designed to be able to run up to 6 lights at one time (when hazards being used).

Also in terms of the fault, I'm quite glad that you guys all made them aware of the fault before I ordered my one, sending it back from NZ would've been a right pain.
Can definitely say the revised version works great though.
 
I used the motodynamic light as an add on and not replacement and it worked just fine. I worked the principal that you can't have too many lights.


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Was it very complicated to install the motodynamics and have the turn signals hooked up too? Feel I should probably give it to a shop to install, I'm not good with circuit loads and whatnot.
 
Was it very complicated to install the motodynamics and have the turn signals hooked up too? Feel I should probably give it to a shop to install, I'm not good with circuit loads and whatnot.

It was easy. All you have to do is tap into the turn signal wires rather than cut them. I used Posi-Taps and they worked just fine.
 
It was easy. All you have to do is tap into the turn signal wires rather than cut them. I used Posi-Taps and they worked just fine.

Any issues with overloading like ChanceCoats123 was referring to? This looks super simple using Posi-Taps.
 
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Yamaha Rear Turn Signal Splitter Y-Adapter Harness 2 Wire R1 R6 FZ6 FZ6R FZ1 FZ8
wh-spl-y02.jpg

;) Who needs to cut and splice? Or worse, tap and corrode?

I'm using the Motodynamic with the sequential, and stock signals with LED drop-in bulbs. Naturally, no problems with overloading since I doubt together I'm drawing half the current of a normal bulb. My bike also had just a cheapo integrated taillight when I bought it, and I added back stock signals with the harnesses above, with normal bulbs at first. No issues with that either... as texcollect said, the LEDs aren't drawing much of any power.
 
Yamaha Rear Turn Signal Splitter Y-Adapter Harness 2 Wire R1 R6 FZ6 FZ6R FZ1 FZ8
wh-spl-y02.jpg

;) Who needs to cut and splice? Or worse, tap and corrode?

I'm using the Motodynamic with the sequential, and stock signals with LED drop-in bulbs. Naturally, no problems with overloading since I doubt together I'm drawing half the current of a normal bulb. My bike also had just a cheapo integrated taillight when I bought it, and I added back stock signals with the harnesses above, with normal bulbs at first. No issues with that either... as texcollect said, the LEDs aren't drawing much of any power.

Those look perfect! Going to order a pair!
 
Update! Why not?!

I apologize to everyone who has posted and reposted about this topic. But Im a newbie.

Nothing installed yet. Bought the Motodynamic Integrated tail light (in mail). Also ordered the Motodynamic Turn Signal Splitter Y-Adaptor (in mail). Earlier I was going to keep the stock signals but have decided to get a f/e. About to order this fender eliminator kit off ebay - Yamaha FZ6 FZ 6 Tail Tidy Fender Eliminator 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Black 4T S | eBay - unless someone can give me a reason not to. I know the led's wont be as bright as stock, but that's ok.
Are the connections on these LED turn signals the same as the stock connection. I still want to have the LED t/s on the fender eliminator kit functioning.
SO since I ordered the Y-adaptor, should I need anything else to make theses signals get blinking?

I've been doing lots of research some people say you need this relay and that relay... some people say just the Y-adaptor...
 
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Update! Why not?!

I apologize to everyone who has posted and reposted about this topic. But Im a newbie.

Nothing installed yet. Bought the Motodynamic Integrated tail light (in mail). Also ordered the Motodynamic Turn Signal Splitter Y-Adaptor (in mail). Earlier I was going to keep the stock signals but have decided to get a f/e. About to order this fender eliminator kit off ebay - Yamaha FZ6 FZ 6 Tail Tidy Fender Eliminator 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Black 4T S | eBay - unless someone can give me a reason not to. I know the led's wont be as bright as stock, but that's ok.
Are the connections on these LED turn signals the same as the stock connection. I still want to have the LED t/s on the fender eliminator kit functioning.
SO since I ordered the Y-adaptor, should I need anything else to make theses signals get blinking?

I've been doing lots of research some people say you need this relay and that relay... some people say just the Y-adaptor...

The additional aftermarket LED directional lights can be and sometimes are brighter than the stock lights. You just need to shop for them. If you're near a cyclegear store check out the speed metal brands. They're about $30 for a pair. I use them front and back on my SV and they are brighter than the OEM lights I had.

The "Y" connector that comes with your new tail light will likely have load resistors to emulate the load of the original incandescent lamps. If you get an electronic flasher you can clip the resistor leads inside the "Y" assembly which will reduce the heat of the resistors as well as save some wattage.
Here's a great economical electronic flasher for the dollar that works great!
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...versal-motorcycle-electronic-flasher/787/842/ The electronic flasher will maintain it's flash rate regardless of the combination of lights (within reason).
If you have any more questions please give a holler! You'll no doubt be splicing and there is info on color codes of the wires if you do a search on the forum. :)

Here's some info from another thread that might help you identify wiring:
Left front turn signal with running light. That's two filament per bulb in the front.
Chocolate colored wire= turn signal filament.
Blue with a red tracer colored wire= running light filament.
Black wire= Ground or negative.

Right front turn signal with running light.
Dark green colored wire= turn signal filament.
Blue colored wire= running light filament.
Black wire= Ground or negative.

Left rear turn signal.
Chocolate colored wire= turn signal filament.
Black wire= Ground or negative.

Right rear turn signal.
Dark green colored wire= turn signal filament.
Black wire= Ground or negative.

Hope this helps!
 
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Has anyone had issues with the emergency flashers not working? It worked originally, but now they do not work at all. The stock signals flash fine, just not the taillight emergency flashers. Sequential turn signals and brake-flashing appears fine.
 
Has anyone had issues with the emergency flashers not working? It worked originally, but now they do not work at all. The stock signals flash fine, just not the taillight emergency flashers. Sequential turn signals and brake-flashing appears fine.

Are you using the stock OEM flasher? If so your problem will probably be solve with an electronic aftermarket replacement. :) Also since you say they worked before check to see if a filament in one of the lamps has blown.
 
Are you using the stock OEM flasher? If so your problem will probably be solve with an electronic aftermarket replacement. :) Also since you say they worked before check to see if a filament in one of the lamps has blown.

I am indeed using the stock flasher. I just assumed since I didn't have aftermarket signals that it wouldn't be necessary. I'll look into an aftermarket alternative - I know I've seen these posted throughout the forum.
 
I am indeed using the stock flasher. I just assumed since I didn't have aftermarket signals that it wouldn't be necessary. I'll look into an aftermarket alternative - I know I've seen these posted throughout the forum.
Let us know how it works out. :)
 
Let us know how it works out. :)

This is what their support suggested:

'Your hazard system light might not be able to handle 6 turn signals at once. In this case you need to disable the 2 resistors inside our subharness. To disable simply cut both the black wires. Leave the blue and yellow wires alone.'

I can't imagine I am the first one to run into this issue but I am not sure how many people wanted to use both the stock signals and the integrated.
 
This is what their support suggested:

'Your hazard system light might not be able to handle 6 turn signals at once. In this case you need to disable the 2 resistors inside our subharness. To disable simply cut both the black wires. Leave the blue and yellow wires alone.'

I can't imagine I am the first one to run into this issue but I am not sure how many people wanted to use both the stock signals and the integrated.

I was going to use stock signals with the integrated light too but instead am going to use LED signals because they draw much less power.
 
This is what their support suggested:

'Your hazard system light might not be able to handle 6 turn signals at once. In this case you need to disable the 2 resistors inside our subharness. To disable simply cut both the black wires. Leave the blue and yellow wires alone.'

I can't imagine I am the first one to run into this issue but I am not sure how many people wanted to use both the stock signals and the integrated.

A lot of LED setups have used load resistors to emulate the load of an incandescent lamp to keep the flasher happy and at a normal flash rate. For the price of an electronic flasher today you don't have to play with load resistors. Load resistors need a home that keeps them electrically and heat isolated. For the labor and tom foolery needed I would just get an electronic flasher that will flash evenly at a wide range of loads. You can get one for $8.95 to $20.00. Plug n play!

If you search you'll find many conversations over the years on this forum about this very subject. :)
 
I went for the Motodynamics Integrated rear taillight and added the Flush mount front LED (the R1 version - which fits almost perfectly). I had also thought ahead and ordered the Flasher from superbrightleds.com.

With the relay, I was hoping to get the correct flash rate with all the LED lights and NOT use the load resistors...

That particular configuration and a couple variations... and 3 10A tail fuses later - and I'm using the load resistors on the front turn signals as well as the integrated taillight. Not particularly happy with that setup, I guess I need a different/better flasher relay for the additional LEDs?
 
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