Lube/Not Lube or Replace Cables

RodneyBR

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I hear conflicting reports on lubing the clutch lever cable for example. Some say it should be lubed and others say it shouldn't be. And others say replace the cable(s) completely.

What do you guys think? And is there any specific interval they should be lubed/checked?
 

MattR302

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I hear conflicting reports on lubing the clutch lever cable for example. Some say it should be lubed and others say it shouldn't be. And others say replace the cable(s) completely.

What do you guys think? And is there any specific interval they should be lubed/checked?

Lube it. It's pretty easy to do, and you'll be amazed at how much easier your clutch pull is after. Get one of these types of tools, you clamp it on the cable jacket, stick the straw in the hole, and blast the lube through the jacket, it forces crud out the other end.

Some people just use a syringe to pour oil into the cable, but I don't think that works as well to clean out the existing crud in the cable.

Motion Pro Cable Luber - Motorcycle Superstore
 

RodneyBR

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Lube it. It's pretty easy to do, and you'll be amazed at how much easier your clutch pull is after. Get one of these types of tools, you clamp it on the cable jacket, stick the straw in the hole, and blast the lube through the jacket, it forces crud out the other end.

Some people just use a syringe to pour oil into the cable, but I don't think that works as well to clean out the existing crud in the cable.

Motion Pro Cable Luber - Motorcycle Superstore

Fair enough. At what interval would you suggest?
 

FinalImpact

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Here's a syringe cable lube kit sold by one of the forum old timers. Works for me.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/bikes-parts-sale/35426-revolutionary-new-cable-lubricator.html

EZ Glider Cable Lubrication

Yamaha recommends every 6 months or 4000 miles or as needed. Engine oil is fine for this. Chemiker uses Rotella T synthetic, if memory serves.

+5 ^^ :thumbup:


Lube fixes everything! :cheer:

It will be much smoother and easier to pull w/lube. The moment it feels crunchy, loosen the adjuster, remove the cable end at the lever, insert tiny telfon tube/syringe and lube it. Assemble and adjust. Done.

Takes maybe 6 min.... Granted you don't even need to remove the cable end from the lever, its easier to nestle the teflon tube further down the sheath with it removed. I made my own and dump 30 wt in it.
 

RodneyBR

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Seems a lot of people use WD40 and swear by it. Some have been doing so for decades with positive results. Sure WD40 isn't so much a lube as is solvent/degreaser, but some say regular lube will gunk up the inside of the cable.

Thoughts?
 

VEGASRIDER

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Replacing the entire clutch cable was a big PIA for me. I even had a friend conduct the removal install. Yeah, I helped him remove the air box, maybe the battery can't remember. It was done at 70k miles. Only because I wanted it done not because I needed it done.

I suggest you spend the extra money and get the OEM cable, I have heard that others maynot be the correct length or may have had other install issues due to its size or length. I am still on my original throttle cable at 95k miles.

Lubricating it and giving it time to settle in will make a noticeable difference on your existing cable.
 

Lefty

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outasight20

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Replacing the cable is a huge pain, as VEGASRIDER said. You have to route it through the frame, and if you have any aftermarket wiring going through there, forget about it. MAJOR PITA. I lubricate my cable with synthetic motor oil (the same oil I put in the bike) once every thousand miles or so. I make a little funnel out of tinfoil and tape it around the top of the housing. Then I fill it with a bit of oil, and work the cable back and forth until it all gets in. Takes about 20 minutes and makes a big difference.
 

regder

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I'm in the no lube camp. I'm on my third clutch cable, but don't care too much. Replacing it really isn't that hard, takes me about 30 minutes taking my time, and the cable is about $40 I think.

FYI, first cable was replaced at 32k km and was super stiff even with lube, second cable was at 86k km and was fine but changed because I was going in there anyways, third cable is still ok.
 

iSteve

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I like to just replace the cable every other year. I pay $22 for a cable and it takes maybe 15 minutes to change. Lubing is good when the cable starts to get sticky and warn but if the cable need constant lubing it's probably time to change, if for nothing else just piece of mind.

I'm guessing the amount of use the bike gets, ridding conditions and if you're a chronic bike washer would impact the cable life. Something to think about.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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As noted above, lubing the cable is recommended by Yamaha and will extend the life of your cable and make the pull easier as well.

I use a cable specific pressure spray whenever I feel it start to get tighter (more than 2x a year).

IMO, I would steer away from WD40 (unless using it to just flush the innerds). I've also found some chain lubes (not wax) also work well inside the cable for lube

Re replacement, I'm still on my original cable but have pulled it for maintainance.

You can remove the plastic retainer inside the left side frame and you won't have to lift the tank,, remove the air box, etc in the future. The cable isn't going anywhere, my retainers been off for at least 3 years and makes cable replacement a snap. (I suspect the retainer was put there by yamaha for ease of initial assembly of the bike)

IMO, I'd also remove the barrell end of the cable, at the lever and INSPECT FOR ANY FRAYING. Lubing without inspecting, your potentially missing a major issue should that end break (and there have been posts on it).

I do put a small amount of waterproof (marine) grease on that barrel end as well as the actual main lever bolt (on occassion-not all the time).
 

dpaul007

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I lube once a year. Been using the ez glider cable lube and it works great. Just part of the regular maintenance you should be doing.
 

RodneyBR

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New lube... DuPont™ Teflon® Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant DuPont? Teflon® Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant


This unique dry-film lubricant leaves a long-lasting, micro-thin, pure DuPont™ Teflon® fluoropolymer coating that repels dirt, resists corrosion, and reduces friction and squeaks. It’s also excellent for high-temperature applications.

- Goes on wet to penetrate, then sets up with a clean, dry, white micro-thin coating
- Film bonds to most surfaces
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Applications:

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RodneyBR

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Got my cable luber today, $9.

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