Integrated turn signals and brake lights

[Motogiro]

Bought a BackOFF brake light signal module and installation seemed simple enough. Just split the power brake wire in two and splice in the module with a ground wire. But which FZ6 brake wire is which? There are two hot and one ground.

So I search the best FZ6 forum on the net and sure enough Cliff has provided the answer! Spliced in the yellow wire and the module works like a champ. Thanks Cliff!

Thanks man!

When you get a chance post up some pics!

 

[killertofu9]

Since this threads been revived, added pod light turn signals the other day and removed the signal stalks. Used R1 pod sockets and wled x-HP5s from superbrightleds.com along with a flasher relay.

 

[rivettm]

Ok lets get this started again. I had the motodynamics tail light installed and working fine with the factory stocks. I swapped out the factory stocks with the2wheels ones and am having the problem where the brake light sometimes stays on when I release the brake and randomly does the 3 pulses it is supposed to do when the brake is initially pressed. The brake light staying on mostly happens when the bike is off but ignition is on. When the bike is running I still get the random pulses.

From my factory signal harnesses I have a Y splitters I bought from motodynamics. All cutting/soldering was done to wiring past the factory harnesses.

Here are some ugly diagrams I drew using powerpoint.

Any ideas?

 

[FinalImpact]

Ok lets get this started again. I had the motodynamics tail light installed and working fine with the factory stocks. I swapped out the factory stocks with the2wheels ones and am having the problem where the brake light sometimes stays on when I release the brake and randomly does the 3 pulses it is supposed to do when the brake is initially pressed. The brake light staying on mostly happens when the bike is off but ignition is on. When the bike is running I still get the random pulses.

From my factory signal harnesses I have a Y splitters I bought from motodynamics. All cutting/soldering was done to wiring past the factory harnesses.

Here are some ugly diagrams I drew using powerpoint.

Any ideas?

Can you scan the diagram for the MD unit? That would be helpful. Also I had trouble with another product as I had OEM incandescent bulb(s) in the circuit and me new LED stalks didn't care for that. You might pop them out if you have any and test it.

 

[Motogiro]

Get a couple of 1n4004 1 amp diodes. try them in the configuration I added to your wiring diagram.

Banded end of the diode toward the light. In other words: Source ----->[-----Light

See attached modification of your drawing...

This should keep brake light signals separated.

 

[rivettm]

Can you scan the diagram for the MD unit? That would be helpful. Also I had trouble with another product as I had OEM incandescent bulb(s) in the circuit and me new LED stalks didn't care for that. You might pop them out if you have any and test it.

The motodynamics tail light plugs directly into the factory harnesses but they don't use the same colors on their end. I'll send what I've got when I get home from work.

 

[rivettm]

Get a couple of 1n4004 1 amp diodes. try them in the configuration I added to your wiring diagram.

Banded end of the diode toward the light. In other words: Source ----->[-----Light

See attached modification of your drawing...

This should keep brake light signals separated.

Thank you! I'll try that out this weekend but I'll be using the 1n4005 variety since I have them around.

 

[FinalImpact]

It seems strange it sticks on like that. . . . A single diode fixed my problem but I don't know about this. . . two differnet issues.

 

[rivettm]

Can you scan the diagram for the MD unit? That would be helpful. Also I had trouble with another product as I had OEM incandescent bulb(s) in the circuit and me new LED stalks didn't care for that. You might pop them out if you have any and test it.

The only incandescent bulb left on the rear of the bike is the license plate bulb. I haven't changed the front stocks yet but I will be doing that. I'll need to get the relay motogiro has posted that will allow me to keep running lights on my front stocks before I start that project.

 

[FinalImpact]

The only incandescent bulb left on the rear of the bike is the license plate bulb. I haven't changed the front stocks yet but I will be doing that. I'll need to get the relay motogiro has posted that will allow me to keep running lights on my front stocks before I start that project.

Disconnect them or pull the bulbs and see if that cures it. Are you the first owner and is there any OTHER electrical mods like some thing like an alarm that is all the time?? GPS, Alarm, etc. Maybe its power tap is feeding back keeping things on after the key is off.

 

[rivettm]

Disconnect them or pull the bulbs and see if that cures it. Are you the first owner and is there any OTHER electrical mods like some thing like an alarm that is all the time?? GPS, Alarm, etc. Maybe its power tap is feeding back keeping things on after the key is off.

I'm the only owner of the bike. There was an alarm installed but I yanked it out because it never worked right (tilt sensor was faulty and I have a replacement, will be putting it back in). All it did was hook up to the battery so no wires were cut to install it.

I have a battery tender wired up but nothing was running off it while I was doing my tests.

No other electrical mods have been done but I will be doing the bd43 dual headlight mod. I have the cable just need to install it.

I'll try pulling the other bulbs and see what happens before I do the diodes.

 

[killertofu9]

This thread might help http://www.600riders.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43909

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

 

[Motogiro]

This thread might help What the2wheels don't tell you LED stalks - Yamaha FZ6 Forums - International FZ6 Motorcycle Community Forum

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

Yes. If you look at post #5 on that thread you will see the same concept using diodes to block any possible reverse leakage as I have posted here. That was the problem. There was leakage through the incandescent brake light filament.

 

[rivettm]

Yes. If you look at post #5 on that thread you will see the same concept using diodes to block any possible reverse leakage as I have posted here. That was the problem. There was leakage through the incandescent brake light filament.

What doesn't make sense to me is the incandescent brake light filament part. My brake light is LED along with the rear signals integrated and stocks.

That being said the diodes worked. :thumbup:

Not all the wiring is back together yet but my quick test did not work prior to connecting the diodes and did work after. I'm pretty confident it is fixed!

Thanks for the help.

Here's the light show.

 

[Motogiro]

What doesn't make sense to me is the incandescent brake light filament part. My brake light is LED along with the rear signals integrated and stocks.

That being said the diodes worked. :thumbup:

Not all the wiring is back together yet but my quick test did not work prior to connecting the diodes and did work after. I'm pretty confident it is fixed!

Thanks for the help.

Very cool! It must have to do with a logic circuit in those multimode directionals. There has to be a reverse path and when you get only forward bias through the diodes they are okay.

Maybe we can get this stickied since it's popping up more often lately.

It could even be an oscillation that the units goes into under certain conditions. Logic going from hi to lo state. The LED is a diode in itself and then lights as it rectifies the oscillation. We'd need an O scope to see but the important part is we have it nailed with the forward biasing diode.
Coolness!

 

[FinalImpact]

Yes. If you look at post #5 on that thread you will see the same concept using diodes to block any possible reverse leakage as I have posted here. That was the problem. There was leakage through the incandescent brake light filament.

Not to be nit picky but - The electronics have the leakage - the incandescent provides the path to ground for the current to flow (that's why I wanted you to unplug or remove the incandescent lamps).
In the case of the stalks in the link mentioned above, each was leaking 30ma through the logic IC. And when i say logic IC, I mean the LEDs for Brake and Run are the same LEDs, so a logic IC determined how much current to feed them for Run vs brake brightness.
With a lamp and a handheld meter the current can be measured pretty easily.

Sadly I tried a handful of diodes and all were either bad or the wrong application. But with the right one, all is Well! :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

What doesn't make sense to me is the incandescent brake light filament part. My brake light is LED along with the rear signals integrated and stocks.

That being said the diodes worked. :thumbup:

Not all the wiring is back together yet but my quick test did not work prior to connecting the diodes and did work after. I'm pretty confident it is fixed!

Thanks for the help.

Here's the light show.

But are your fronts still filament type incandescent? That's what i wanted to know.

Eitherway - Glad its working now!

Sounds like we should be buying bulk quantities of flashers and 1N400X diodes!!

 

[rivettm]

But are your fronts still filament type incandescent? That's what i wanted to know.

Eitherway - Glad its working now!

Sounds like we should be buying bulk quantities of flashers and 1N400X diodes!!

Before connecting the diodes I disconnected the license plate bulb and front signals and it was still not working correctly.

I hooked up the front signals this morning and all is good. Waiting on the new relay to get the rate back to normal and I'll be done.

 

[Gelvatron]

Just curious how did you connect the turn signals I to the brake harness or what do you recommend for a t or y connector thanks

 

[Motogiro]

Just curious how did you connect the turn signals I to the brake harness or what do you recommend for a t or y connector thanks

Taylor,
Check out post #43. He has a wiring diagram.