Help!

[K Rig]

I'm replacing the chain and sprockets on my 04 fazer, and i can't get the front sprocket off. Is it reverse threaded? I've had people sit on it with the wheel on the ground and holding the brake, and i can't budge it with a 4 foot breaker bar.
And does anyone know the torque settings for the rear sprocket nuts?

 

[Shamus McFeeley]

Try some penetrating oil, like PB Blaster. When they have not been removed for a long time, sprockets can freeze up.

 

[K Rig]

but its standard threaded?

 

[galen]

Drive Sprocket-65ft-lb
Rear Sprocket-72ft-lb
Avel Nut- 87ft-lb
Not shore about removal, had same problem with the front axel.
I got a service manuale from BonemansFZ6 site (THANKS).
Good luck:thumbup:

 

[galen]

I checked the manuel,i think it is standerd thread but not sure.

 

[RJ2112]

I'm replacing the chain and sprockets on my 04 fazer, and i can't get the front sprocket off. Is it reverse threaded? I've had people sit on it with the wheel on the ground and holding the brake, and i can't budge it with a 4 foot breaker bar.
And does anyone know the torque settings for the rear sprocket nuts?

There's a lock washer that has a tab folded up on the side of the nut. If you look closely, you'll see the edge of the washer. You need to pry that away and flatten it out so the nut can spin.

 

[Motogiro]

I would imagine because of shaft rotation, CCW to take the nut off...

 

[K Rig]

There's a lock washer that has a tab folded up on the side of the nut. If you look closely, you'll see the edge of the washer. You need to pry that away and flatten it out so the nut can spin.

Already did that, then used some penetrant lube. Sucker won't budge. Starting to wonder if i can get away with not changing it...

 

[Motogiro]

Have you shocked the nut? Don't hit the thread! Take a large drift pin and hammer and shock the nut. Penetrants won't want to go between certain areas until you break the barriers by shocking them. This creates micro fractures that the penetrant oil can flow into. Also physical vibration has to do with viscus materials flowing where they would not normally flow in a static state. Warmth also helps but you have to be careful in areas that have seals or rubber mount etc. If safe you can play a flame on the nut. Not to hot because you don't want to anneal anything. You'd be surprised what a few degrees of warmth can do.

 

[616ah]

Have you shocked the nut? Don't hit the thread! Take a large drift pin and hammer and shock the nut. This creates micro fractures that the penetrant oil can flow into. Also physical vibration has to do with viscus materials flowing where they would not normally flow in a static state. Warmth also helps but you have to be careful in areas that have seals or rubber mount etc. If safe you can play a flame on the nut. Not to hot because you don't want to anneal anything. You'd be surprised what a few degrees of warmth can do.

May want to be carefull with this, any "shock" you give to that nut is absorbed by the bearings supporting the output shaft possibly causing "micro fractures" in the bearings, and leading to future premature bearing failure. just a thought.

If there is thread locking compound on there, softening it with a little heat does really help. If its just plain rusted allowing a penetrant time to do its job might help. Many farmers use used diesel crankcase oil as a penetrant - it really works. :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you have access to a good working 1/2" air gun, that should do it and yes, its regular threads..

According to my 2007 Yamaha manual, the rear sprocket bolts should be torqued to 72 foot lbs torqued in a criss cross pattern. The engine sprocket nut should be 65 foot lbs, then the tabs bent over...


.

 

[04fizzer]

Definitely use an impact gun if you've got one.

Otherwise, try hitting your cheater bar with a mallet, to work similarly to the impact gun. You'll need to shock it to get it moving/break it free.

 

[K Rig]

dude your picture is awesome!
:rof:
keep right

 

[K Rig]

If you have access to a good working 1/2" air gun, that should do it and yes, its regular threads..

According to my 2007 Yamaha manual, the rear sprocket bolts should be torqued to 72 foot lbs torqued in a criss cross pattern. The engine sprocket nut should be 65 foot lbs, then the tabs bent over...


*BTW, if you need an 07 Genuine 07 yamaha shop manual as a PDF file, PM me with an e-mail address on where to send it to...

I've got a manual for my 04 but i stripped one of the studs on wheel when i was tightening it to spec. Just thought my service manual was wrong.
I've access to the impact gun, just no air compressor so no good there. Pretty much what i had to do was leave the oem one on, install everything, then i'll have to ride out of town where i have access to a compressor and repeat the mess.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yea, 72 Ft lbs sounds like a lot to me for the sprocket bolts, I believe their self locking too...