Hard to start! Weird issue...

[Xlrrp]

Hi,

My bike has run perfect since I've had it, but today was different. This morning, the starter had to crank for a few seconds before it started. Once started, it ran fine. Went to the gas station and filled up. It was even harder to start and cranked for about five seconds.

I left the gas station and got on the throttle and at about 50mph, the bike completely died as if the key (or kill switch) was shut off. After a minute or two of trying, I got it started again and it ran fine all the way to work.

After work, it once again did not want to start and it took 2-3 minutes of cranking (not all at once) to get it going. Ran fine all the way home. In the driveway I shut it off and started it a number of times. Most times it started right up, but a few times it took quite a bit of cranking to get it to start.

When it does start, it is as if the key is turned on and it fires right up. No sputtering or smoke or anything like that.

This weekend I did adjust my handlebars and clutch/brake angles so I'm hoping maybe I stretched a wire moving the bars forward and back trying to find the right angle or when I rotated the brake/clutch lever mounts.

Right now I am going to bypass the kill switch and see if that is the issue. If not, I'm at a loss. I've already wiggled all the wiring I could have pulled when adjusting the bars and that doesn't seem to make a difference.

Anyone else ever had this occur? Any ideas on tracking down the issue? I don't want to take it to the dealer but I also do not trust it to ride right now.

Thanks..... Chris

 

[Xlrrp]

I may have solved my issue (that would be great, but I'm not confident).

I wiggled every wire I could reach and the bike wouldn't die. I pushed on and around the shut off (kill) switch and it wouldn't die. I was going to bypass the switch temporarily to see if that was the issue.

Before I bypassed the shut off switch I noticed my key only has to be turned slightly to the left and the engine will die. I sprayed WD-40 where the key goes and I have not been able to recreate the engine not starting. Maybe that's all it was.

I had a small leatherman type thing on my motorcycle key chain so maybe the weight of that thing vibrating around damaged the ignition switch. Anyway, I'll know for sure tomorrow during my commute on I-5.

 

[FinalImpact]

Keep us posted and be safe. Dying at the wrong could be harmful.... << Or the easy way out I guess! Its all perspective!

Also - some proper lube in there might be a good idea.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the kill switch was faulty (bad connection, etc), it would NOT SPIN OVER when you pushed the starter button.

Just your bike spinning over rules out the Red kill switch (when the engine quits).

You have some dirty contacts in that switch or with the mods just done, you may have kinked a wire/pulled it loose, etc.

If its now only happening when you jiggle the key, I agree, you likely found the source.. :thumbup:

 

[Xlrrp]

Update: I think the issue was the key switch. After using WD-40 and then later Lock Ease, the bike consistently starts each time and the problem is gone.

Out of all the bikes I've owned, I have never had an ignition switch do this but I'm not complaining. Cheap fix....

Thanks for the info on the kill switch, glad I didn't screw with it as it wasn't the issue.

 

[Erci]

Update: I think the issue was the key switch. After using WD-40 and then later Lock Ease, the bike consistently starts each time and the problem is gone.

Out of all the bikes I've owned, I have never had an ignition switch do this but I'm not complaining. Cheap fix....

Thanks for the info on the kill switch, glad I didn't screw with it as it wasn't the issue.

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I'm a bit confused.. if it was anything key related, why would the bike crank over, but not start?

I can see it cutting out completely as you were riding, but the hard start issue? Would ignition cause that?

The reason I'm in this thread is because I searched for "hard start", which is exactly what's happened twice to my FZ1 now.. cranking fast for about 5 seconds and nothing. Then started right up on next try.

 

[Motogiro]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I'm a bit confused.. if it was anything key related, why would the bike crank over, but not start?

I can see it cutting out completely as you were riding, but the hard start issue? Would ignition cause that?

The reason I'm in this thread is because I searched for "hard start", which is exactly what's happened twice to my FZ1 now.. cranking fast for about 5 seconds and nothing. Then started right up on next try.

The next time it does this, Stop, get off the bike and smell the exhaust. Does it smell gassy? Does it smell lean?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I'm a bit confused.. if it was anything key related, why would the bike crank over, but not start?

I can see it cutting out completely as you were riding, but the hard start issue? Would ignition cause that?

The reason I'm in this thread is because I searched for "hard start", which is exactly what's happened twice to my FZ1 now.. cranking fast for about 5 seconds and nothing. Then started right up on next try.

If the contacts inside were crappy (which is what it sounds like from the original OP), it could crank and not start.

I'm not a big fan of WD40, but a spray down the key hole and some switching it on and off to loosen any corrosion wouldn't hurt. There should be a drain hole in the bottom of the switch, I'd put a piece of paper towel down there and catch what comes out. Follow up with a product for lock cylinders.. The make electrical contact cleaner but its pretty aggressive stuff.

Cliff, do you think it'd (electrical contact cleaner) bother any of the plastic inside the switch if just a little used?


You may try jiggling the key as well before cleaning and when the issue arrises and see if there's any difference.

I'm assuming the fuel pump primes when you turn the key on (like the FZ6) and pressurizes the fuel rail?

 

[Erci]

If the contacts inside were crappy (which is what it sounds like from the original OP), it could crank and not start.

I'm not a big fan of WD40, but a spray down the key hole and some switching it on and off to loosen any corrosion wouldn't hurt. There should be a drain hole in the bottom of the switch, I'd put a piece of paper towel down there and catch what comes out. Follow up with a product for lock cylinders.. The make electrical contact cleaner but its pretty aggressive stuff.

Cliff, do you think it'd (electrical contact cleaner) bother any of the plastic inside the switch if just a little used?


You may try jiggling the key as well before cleaning and when the issue arrises and see if there's any difference.

I'm assuming the fuel pump primes when you turn the key on (like the FZ6) and pressurizes the fuel rail?

Yup, the pump primes. I'll do the WD followed by lock lube. Can't hurt. Thanks!

 

[Erci]

The next time it does this, Stop, get off the bike and smell the exhaust. Does it smell gassy? Does it smell lean?

Should I lick it? Blah
I'll have to remember to sniff it if/when it happens again. Definitely a good idea.. can point to fuel pump issue (lean) or spark issue (rich), right?

 

[Motogiro]

If the contacts inside were crappy (which is what it sounds like from the original OP), it could crank and not start.

I'm not a big fan of WD40, but a spray down the key hole and some switching it on and off to loosen any corrosion wouldn't hurt. There should be a drain hole in the bottom of the switch, I'd put a piece of paper towel down there and catch what comes out. Follow up with a product for lock cylinders.. The make electrical contact cleaner but its pretty aggressive stuff.

Cliff, do you think it'd (electrical contact cleaner) bother any of the plastic inside the switch if just a little used?


You may try jiggling the key as well before cleaning and when the issue arrises and see if there's any difference.

I'm assuming the fuel pump primes when you turn the key on (like the FZ6) and pressurizes the fuel rail?

I don't think there is anything that would get harmed using contact cleaner. The idea is to get any gummy residue out. WD40 is okay to start with but when it gets old it gets gummy so you want to use a quality silicone lubricant right after.

[MENTION=7496]Erci[/MENTION] I lick mine but remember I have dual exhausts Blah------Blah

 

[FinalImpact]

Hindsight says its kind of odd that poring product through the lock even goes into the switch. The reason being, as the tumblers wear, they produce shards of brass, metallic bits which the switches contacts won't appreciate.

Normally - they are separate entities. In the case of the Little Fizzer at least. This is when I drilled removed the triple for powder coat. Notice the separation between the switch and the lock.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Or you can pull the switch completly apart. One year FJR, they had a bad soldier spot inside the ignition switch (had a re-call too, 08 as I re-call). Someone pulled in apart and re-soldiered the connector..

As posted earlier, there is a small drain in the switch so any debris should/may come out. You could also wrap a rag around the switch and with the cover open, blow some compressed air in there to blow out any and all debris (or even vacuum)..