gas gauge always reads empty

Here's the original re-call:



_________________________________________________________________

Make: YAMAHA Model: FZS600
Model Year: 2004
Manufacturer: YAMAHA MOTOR CORPORATION, USA Mfr's Report Date: SEP 27, 2006
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 06V371000 PE06020
NHTSA Action Number: PE06020
Component: VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL
Potential Number of Units Affected: 39757
Summary:
ON CERTAIN MOTORCYCLES, AN IMPROPERLY DESIGNED THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR COULD CAUSE AN INTERMITTENTLY UNSTABLE IDLE WHEN THE ENGINE IS AT IDLING SPEED WHEN THE MOTORCYCLE IS STOPPED OR DURING LOW-SPEED OPERATIONS. THE ENGINE COULD STALL AS A RESULT.
Consequence:
IF THE ENGINE STALLS AFTER THE OPERATOR DISENGAGES THE CLUTCH IN A LOW GEAR WHILE RIDING, THE REAR TIRE MIGHT SLIP MOMENTARILY IF THE OPERATOR ABRUPTLY RE-ENGAGES THE CLUTCH. THIS COULD RESULT IN A CRASH WITH INJURY OR DEATH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON OCTOBER 16, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT YAMAHA AT 1-888-88-YAMAHA.
Notes:
CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION¿S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.
 
I would still put the bike in it's diagnostic mode and test the TPS because even though it's not a recall it doesn't mean the TPS hasn't failed. You could have an 08 and the TPS can go bad.
I snagged this for you:


Throttle Position Sensor Issues (Are you Experiencing Poor Idle/Mileage, or Stalls?)


What are the Symptoms of a Faulty TPS?

* Stalling
* Irregual idle
* RPM Drop while acclerating or trying to maintain a constand speed.
* Drop in fuel Mileage
* Poor Throttle Response

Originally Posted by Megatron on sportbikes.net
To check the TPS values, you have to press and hold SELECT + RESET, then turn the key and keep them pressed for 8 more seconds.

It'll appear dIAg on the display, you can release them now. Afterwards use select until you see a d01 (Diagnostic Mode for the TPS)

Then it should read between 15 and 17 if the throttle is closed,
With the throttle fully open, it should read between 97 and 100.

If the values are over or below those I mentioned, the TPS should be replaced.

To leave the dIAG mode, simply turn the key counter clockwise.

For more discussion on testing TPS, see this post:
http://forums.sportbikes.net/forums/...&postcount=247



Here's a link:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...ou-experiencing-poor-idle-mileage-stalls.html

You should be able to slowly turn the throttle on the number will graduate from the low to high without jumping. You shouldn't see any dead spots as you turn the throttle and the low and high numbers should be the same from low to high.

starts at 16 and ends at 100...no missing numbers...i shall call yamaha and find out if it was done
 
The #'s in between really count and cannot skip.. My FJR high # is set higher than specified, that was per Yamaha headquarters .

Just rule that out, I suspect, that may very well be your problem.

BTW, when I had a hesitation problem with my FJR and dealership couldn't figure it out, the second mechanic said it was normal... It hadn't done that since it was new and was 3 years old at least by then.

I told that mechanic he didn't know what he was talking about and to please leave...

The shop couldn't resolve the problem (they did replace the TPS and sync'ed the throttle bodies). The problem turned out to be a corroded wiring harness plug, under the gas tank. The problem was found after doing some research on an FJR forum and taking the appropriate actions(clean the corrosion out, coat with di-lectric grease). Been fine since...

I keep as far from the dealership as I can...
 
all wires seem to be in check...unless im missing a wire somewhere but i spent hours looking at everyone i could find...also tried the idle screw with no success...it may just be time to bring it to the dealership to look at as much as i dont want to. :(
 
I was just brain storming :eek: and wondered if the software in the ECU has a "Stop if there is no fuel". I'm not talking about low fuel, I'm talking about no fuel.
For example: If I was an engineer I might not want a bike that's running out of fuel to actually pump air into the fuel rails so I would have the ECU shut off the bike if a no fuel condition exists. In the case of this bike there is a condition with the fuel level sender that's saying there's not just low fuel, but instead no fuel. The ECU then refuses to run the bike because it knows it's getting ready to pull air in the line.
The +-30 mile reserve range we have might have a shut off before there is actually no fuel left to pick up. The ECU says, Hey! I'm going to run dry. STOP.
It would be good if you could create a fuel level and see if the bike will then run.

The other thing, could there have been contamination to the injectors. Silica from sandblasting?
 
i cant tell with confidence that there is no "stop if there is no fuel" parametre in the ecu.
i started up my bike with a canister for tank many times!
one of them i had the real tank empty connected and just the fuel hose on the canister....
 
i cant tell with confidence that there is no "stop if there is no fuel" parametre in the ecu.
i started up my bike with a canister for tank many times!
one of them i had the real tank empty connected and just the fuel hose on the canister....

Thanks for the input on this....If the tank was completely empty then I would guess there is not a "stop" parameter.
 
ok so dealership says fuel pump is shot...They gave me an estimate aof 950 not including the fee for picking the bike up and labor for diagnosing what was wrong with it....I asked if warranty covers it and they said yes...when they ran the vin the warranty came up in the original owners name...wtf...so i had to go there and show them the paperwork that i paid for an extended 2 year warranty when i bought the bike...after everything was situated they told me everything was covered and they are ordering the pump tomorrow. so what happens if that wasnt the problem...because when i tested the pump it was fine?
 
finally got the bike back on friday. runs really smooth now. Total cost...$95 for picking up the bike at my house and gas to fill my tank. I guess its better then paying a grand without the warranty. Now to start my mods.
 
Back
Top