FZ1 Bar On!

AcesLA07

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Installed my FZ1 bar the other day. Lmk what ya'll think. I love it. Makes the ride so much more enjoyable. I feel like I have alot more control of the bike and it's very very comfortable. Awesome mod for around $40. They hit the tank at full lock but I never need to go full lock so I don't view it as a big deal.

I do have a question tho. Look at the last picture and when I screwed the Yamaha plate thing back down over the bar it didn't go flush in the front. Shoud it? It's as tight as I could get it but still not flush. Is this a problem?
 

Erci

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Look at the last picture and when I screwed the Yamaha plate thing back down over the bar it didn't go flush in the front. Shoud it? It's as tight as I could get it but still not flush. Is this a problem?

No, it's not a problem. And tightening to "as tight as you can get it" is a very bad idea. Use a torque wrench. If you don't have one, buy one or borrow one. As long as your have proper and even torque on all 4 bolts (tightened using alternating pattern, right?), you're fine.
And if you rotate the bar up just a bit and set up the controls just right, you should be able to go lock to lock without hitting tank.
Am I the only one who practices tight U-turns here? I go lock to lock all the time.
 

mstewar1

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+1 on both torque wrench and rotating the bar slightly. I just installed a pair and mine don't hit. I can't imagine making a change that hindered my ability to turn the vehicle. That's just crazy talk... :D
 

mstewar1

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Good, home-mechanic-quality torque wrenches can be found at Sears. It's something that'll pay for itself in no time. If you avoid one stripped bolt from over-tightening, well, there it is.

Some folks wouldn't touch a fastener on their bikes without a torque wrench. For others, they just use them on critical fasteners. (I'm of the latter school of thought) Maybe the question is, how would you define "critical?" If the notion of having the bars come loose is something you'd define as a critical situation, well, once again, there it is.

View attachment 20660
 

krushnuts

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+1 on both torque wrench and rotating the bar slightly. I just installed a pair and mine don't hit. I can't imagine making a change that hindered my ability to turn the vehicle. That's just crazy talk... :D

+1 to your +1

I have the FZ1 bars installed and no tank hit.
 

Capo79

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Mate, what year is your handlebar and the bike? and did you used your old handlebar caps or used a new ones from FZ1? I have a problem with this now

You will need to buy new ones.

The FZ1 handlebar for US bikes are different than those sold in the EU. Dunno why it is so, but you have to buy a set of inserts that need to be hammered into each end of the handlebar (and I mean HAMMER. I thought this could be done with a little finesse, but no. It needs brute force even with the use of teflon spray...). Nor will your FZ6 bar-ends fit as the bolt that goes into the insert is way too big. I think the diameter of the FZ6 ones are roughly 20 mm, while those going into the inserts need to be only 6-7mm.

In other words, it isn't plug and play on euro bikes as it is on the us bikes.
 

Moeginny

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You folks sure about the alternating pattern? I thought the clamp was similar to MX clamps where you torque the tops first to bottom them out, then torque the lowers?
 

mstewar1

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You folks sure about the alternating pattern? I thought the clamp was similar to MX clamps where you torque the tops first to bottom them out, then torque the lowers?

You may be right. I was simply providing a graphic related to how a star or alternating pattern is done.

Growing up, I learned to do a pattern when tightening things such as cylinder head or other engine covers and things such as brake rotors. I hadn't really heard it applied to a clamp such as this.

I would love to know. And would definitely apologize if I, in any way, gave inaccurate info.
 

Erci

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You folks sure about the alternating pattern? I thought the clamp was similar to MX clamps where you torque the tops first to bottom them out, then torque the lowers?

You may very well be right on that one. The manual shows tops bottomed out. However, I think proper torque is more important than bottoming out tops first. I can't imagine any issues if you leave equal gap on top and bottom. Thoughts?
 

Erci

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Sure enough, MX approach is what is recommended. Still use alternating pattern, but alternate only the top bolts first. When those bottom out at 17 foot pounds, proceed to tighten bottom ones with alternating pattern until both reach 17 foot pounds :)

barinstall.jpg
 
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