Front wheel bearing spacer seized inside wheel, ideas?

[regder]

Changing the front tire on the bike. Went to remove the front tire and instantly there was an issue. The axle bolt (I have an R6 front end which has an axle and then a bolt on the other end) was beyond seized. Took a 2ft breaker bar to break it free. Problem 2, the axle was super seized in the wheel. Took a LOT of hammering to break it out of there. Obvious corrosion on outside of the axle. So now I'm at problem 3, the bearing spacer is seized inside the wheel. I've tried to hammer it out, but it's not going anywhere.

Any ideas? I might continue with the hammer approach, but I'm afraid of damaging the bearings.

General comment, I find it super weird that the axle is so badly seized. I had it apart 18 months ago, the last time I changed tires. I always lube the axle with bearing grease to prevent something like this. This time, there's no trace of grease anywhere. Might have forgotten to grease it, I'm just confused at this point.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I suspect your only way out is to hammer it and the bearing out with it. A long slender punch should allow you to bypass one bearing and smack the spacer directly or the opposite bearing. Yep, the bearing will be damaged/destroyed and will need replacing.

I'm assuming it was a steel spacer with the steel axle?

Also, when re-assembling, (reg grease is usually good) but with the issues your having, I'd put some "anti seize" on the axle spacer. Not on the threads as it'll affect the torque readings.

BTW, Its also possible the axle or spacer didn't have the proper "coating/finish from the factory making it more suceptible to corrison.

Good luck..

 

[regder]

I suspect your only way out is to hammer it and the bearing out with it. A long slender punch should allow you to bypass one bearing and smack the spacer directly or the opposite bearing. Yep, the bearing will be damaged/destroyed and will need replacing.

I'm assuming it was a steel spacer with the steel axle?

Also, when re-assembling, (reg grease is usually good) but with the issues your having, I'd put some "anti seize" on the axle spacer. Not on the threads as it'll affect the torque readings.

BTW, Its also possible the axle or spacer didn't have the proper "coating/finish from the factory making it more suceptible to corrison.

Good luck..

I think you're right, that sucker isn't going to come out without a fight. Probably not a bad idea to replace the bearings anyways as I'm north of 100k km.

For the corrosion, now that I think about it, I took it out one time in January on a nice warm evening. The roads were a bit damp and probably some water mixed with road salt got inside of there. Six months later, I'm dealing with this.

 

[FinalImpact]

IMO if you have to hammer out an axle, that has induced shock and potential dents to both the inner and outer bearing races and the balls themselves. The bearings should be replaced!!!

Like Scott said, using a long skinny drift, through one side and onto the opposing wheel bearing ***GOING THROUGH THE SPACER//DO NOT BEAT ON THE SPACER*** tap out one bearing by driving on the inner race.
THIS BEARING WILL BE DAMAGED!!!! When bearing is free the axle spacer will come out. Knock out the other bearing and SAVE THEM.

Use them to drive the NEW bearings in but only apply driving force to the OUTER RACE. Find a socket or something that fits into the wheels bearing recess, but contacts the outer race.

Personally I don't see a need for Never Seize. IMO I would use lots of wheel bearing grease once the corrosion is cleaned and stopped. If you do water crossings there will be consequences. You could use water proof grease for Boat Wheel Bearings but there is NO guarantee this won't repeat itself if submerged.

Good Luck!

 

[FIZZER6]

Get yourself a new set of front bearings on order because hammering on them is sure to damage them.

My guess is your axle seal is bad and your grease leaked out, water got in and it is corroded in there. Order a new set of axle seals as well!

 

[motojoe122]

Think I'll give mine a look see when I get home, I have not had mine apart since I installed the forks.:spank:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

IMO if you have to hammer out an axle, that has induced shock and potential dents to both the inner and outer bearing races and the balls themselves. The bearings should be replaced!!!

Like Scott said, using a long skinny drift, through one side and onto the opposing wheel bearing ***GOING THROUGH THE SPACER//DO NOT BEAT ON THE SPACER*** tap out one bearing by driving on the inner race.
THIS BEARING WILL BE DAMAGED!!!! When bearing is free the axle spacer will come out. Knock out the other bearing and SAVE THEM.

Use them to drive the NEW bearings in but only apply driving force to the OUTER RACE. Find a socket or something that fits into the wheels bearing recess, but contacts the outer race.

Personally I don't see a need for Never Seize. IMO I would use lots of wheel bearing grease once the corrosion is cleaned and stopped. If you do water crossings there will be consequences. You could use water proof grease for Boat Wheel Bearings but there is NO guarantee this won't repeat itself if submerged.

Good Luck!

Yamaha Marine, makes an specific grease made for outboard engines used in fresh/salt water, speciifically on the main drive shaft from the lower unit to the powerhead. I've used regular marine wheel bearing grease (before I knew of the Yamaha grease) on a bushing that supports that shaft and it didn't last 6 months before it started squeeling. Its also used on prop shafts, drive shaft spline's etc.

It was re-greased with the above mentioned genuine Yamaha "multi purpose grease (water proof, extreme pressure and anti corrosion". A 16 oz container was about $10.00 at the marina:

Yamalube

It'll easily last 3 years vs 6 months of regular marine grease. When I do my steering head bearings, this is what will be put in there...

BTW, its good for wheel bearings tool...

 

[FinalImpact]

Considering these are not actually spinning and displacing the grease nearly anything will do. I.e. outer spacers, inner bearing, spacer, and axle are all locked together. Its really only the dust seals which get wiped from rotation. The key is actually stopping the corrosion/rust that bonded them the first time as grease alone may not have the antioxidants to stop it.
A good reason to use the grease Scott mentioned.

 

[fb40dash5]

I'd recommend a good anti-seize, preferably copper, since you're just trying to prevent corrosion and not lubricate. Regular grease will generally work OK, but anti-seize is specifically designed to prevent that, and work well even when there's close tolerances.