Fork Seal time

Circuitrider

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I have a mild leak on a front fork seal. My question is what parts do I need? There seem to be many different seals or gaskets on the parts diagram on RonAyers. Can someone help with what is actually needed? Parts numbers not needed, just names. Thanks!
 

FinalImpact

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Bug guts can cause issues if left to dry on the stanchion tube. After every ride I wipe the guts off as some have been known to stick to the tube. You don't want dried chunks stuck in the seal or they will seep.

Its worth a shot.

for the most part I can't see replacing the bushings for anything under 20,000 miles unless you're in dusty area where abrasion is factor. Obviously if you feel any movement between the stanchion and the housing it would be wise to replace the bushings. The key for most is having the proper tool to do the job as a poorly installed bushing may be no better off than the OEM bushings current condition.
 

aclayonb

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I'm having a nightmare of a time getting my tubes apart to replace my seals. I recently acquire a piece of 1.5" diameter stainless tubing I'm going to cut to make a cartridge holder tool. If it works, I'll let you borrow it.

If I wasn't so cheap, I'd just buy the $30 tool from motionpro.
 

FinalImpact

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I'm having a nightmare of a time getting my tubes apart to replace my seals. I recently acquire a piece of 1.5" diameter stainless tubing I'm going to cut to make a cartridge holder tool. If it works, I'll let you borrow it.

If I wasn't so cheap, I'd just buy the $30 tool from motionpro.

So is it spinning and you have no Impact Gun to break it free?

IIRC I know some have placed a wooden dowel up the stanchion, hold body weight on the fork body and then unscrew the bolt.
 

Carlos840

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Save you money and don't buy the tool!

I bought one, it worked great on the first damping rod, i tried it on the second one, it would not hold it in place for crap. I tried for 20 minutes, the tool was not biting into the rod enough to prevent it from spinning, things would just spin endlessly and not unscrewing, i was going mental.

At that point remembered reading about the old broomstick trick, i took the handle of a rake, stuffed the pointy end into the damping rod, had it off in 1 minute.
 

PhotoAl

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I did mine a couple of years ago at a little over 40,000 miles. Not too hard, I went thru Ron Ayers and ordered all of the parts including bushings. The bushings had some wear on them but did not seem to need to be replaced. My forks were working as well as they always had, no issues other than leaving some droplets of fluid on the tubes. After cleaning and replacing everything not so hard to put back together.

Used the broomstick on the damping rods. First was easier but the second was not. Had my son hold onto the fork and press down hard and I used the wrench. The second was just about the limit of what we could do with the broom handle. Need a somewhat soft or medium soft wood.

Bought the seal driver from Ron Ayers or Motorcycle Superstore and it worked very well - that is one tool I recommend.
 
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