Fitting a new stainless steel radiator guard

[JasonB]

Hi there,

I've got a new Beowulf stainless steel Radiator guard waiting to go on the FZ6, however my attempts to remove the old one have so far failed.

The new radiator guard includes side panels that I will replace the old side panels that hold the plastic guard in place, so I set about trying to loosen the 4 (2 on each side of the radiator) 4mm hex bolts that hold the side panels in place.

The 4 bolts seem to be either stuck fast of they were last put in with a dab of thread lock.

I don't to wreck the heads of any of these bolts getting them out as that would create a bigger, more expensive problem to rectify. Had thought about using a hammer (assuming it's thread lock) to try and loosen it, but I don't want to damage the radiator or the cooling system.

Has anyone else encountered this and does anyone have any suggestions for removing the bolts?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If its thread lock, usually some heat will break down the locker and allow the bolt/nut to come off. A heat gun used carefully would work, a soldiering gun directly on the bolt may work as well...In a pinch, a hair dryer set on high may be enough..

I would NOT smack it with a hammer, you could very likely damage the radiator..

As a side note, I'd be curious as to your temps once the plastic louver is removed...

Good luck and PLEASE POST YOUR RESULTS

 

[Nelly]

I swear by my impact driver. It will also undo thread locked bolts, agreed it's not a delicate method, but it works without shagging the bolts up.

Neil

 

[JasonB]

I swear by my impact driver. It will also undo thread locked bolts, agreed it's not a delicate method, but it works without shagging the bolts up.

Neil

If it was any other part on the bike I'd probably think about this more seriously, but like I said, it's on the rad and using a hammer is just a disaster waiting to happen. I think I'll give Townsends suggestion of gentle application of heat a go first and see how I get on.

Thanks though!

 

[dnellans]

definitely go for the tip of a soldering iron on the head of the bolt for a minute or two to heat it up, no way they would put high temp loctite on those, so this should work.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I swear by my impact driver. It will also undo thread locked bolts, agreed it's not a delicate method, but it works without shagging the bolts up.

Neil

I love my handheld impact too but its too easy to destroy that radiator IMHO.

I''ve had very good luck with the soldering gun tip on small bolts (center stem bolt riser swivel arm) that I locktited on myself (actually a very small allen head recessed bolt). You have to work quick as the aluminum /brass dissipates the heat quickly. I put the tip of the gun right on the bolt head, hopefully it'll be enough...

 

[Gelvatron]

Your having trouble getting them out? Ha I looked at my bike today I'm missing one on each side so I guess I'm having trouble keeping them in.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your having trouble getting them out? Ha I looked at my bike today I'm missing one on each side so I guess I'm having trouble keeping them in.

That's probably why someone locktited them in!!

 

[Rabbitman109]

The bolts on my FZ1 were in with red loctite. I would try heat.

 

[agf]

When I put my rad guard on I had no trouble at all un doing them. they were a little stiff to start but after 1/2 turn undid with no dramas.Put a dab of loctite blu on them when I put the side guards back on with the s/steel beowulf rad guard.
Putting the side guard back, they sit slightly further out on the leading edge, so when you tighten the bolts they kind settle in as if there is a spring washer there.
All in all, the bolts have not budged since the install


btw I took this shot as a documentation of cleaning headers.
I just use gumption and a scothchbrite and they took about 5 minutes per header (and I need to do it again this w/end)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yea a little off topic, but IMHO, a clean header stands out and looks soooo good!! More so, again IMO, than most frakles... Anyone familiar with bikes knows its a 4 banger!

Pic's are of my overflow tank and just cleaned header (13,000 miles):


Back to topic!!!

 

[JasonB]

Right, I took Townsend's suggestion and used a bit of heat on the bolts and have managed to get three of the 4mm hex bolts out, thanks for the idea Townsend! The last one, I think all I've managed to do is round off the inside of the hex bolt.

Now the hex key is useless and the next largest I have is 5mm which is too large to fit.

Not sure what to do now....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Right, I took Townsend's suggestion and used a bit of heat on the bolts and have managed to get three of the 4mm hex bolts out, thanks for the idea Townsend! The last one, I think all I've managed to do is round off the inside of the hex bolt.

Now the hex key is useless and the next largest I have is 5mm which is too large to fit.

Not sure what to do now....

I looked at mine and their button style bolts (raised outside). Do you have a SMALL needlenose VISE GRIP you can grab the head with? If your not going to use the side panels, you can squash that down a little for better access for the grips.

If you have an SAE set of allen keys, dig thru them, you may find one that'll just fit with a little bit of tapping (and I mean A LITTLE BIT-don't destroy the radiator). Again, heat this one hotter than the others (seems to have more loctite) and try the grips or slightly larger SAE allan head tool... Its not a big bolt and shouldn't take a whole lot to remove...

A pic if it doesn't come out would help if we need to go further...

Good luck

 

[JasonB]

Ah, yeah. The bolts I have are button type as well, wasn't sure how to describe them earlier. I wish they were normal bolts, would certainly give me a couple more options to get this little bugger out!

Photo of the offending bolt should be below;

View attachment 44047

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ah, yeah. The bolts I have are button type as well, wasn't sure how to describe them earlier. I wish they were normal bolts, would certainly give me a couple more options to get this little bugger out!

Photo of the offending bolt should be below;

View attachment 44047

If your not going to use the silver side cover, I'd tear it off to get some more room to the head of the bolt. Then put a small vise grip on it, it'll go...

 

[JasonB]

I was going to keep the side panels just in case I ever needed to put on the original OEM guard again. I may change my mind on this though depending on how things go tomorrow

I'm going to have to remove the left side cowling first as the fairing has a cut out around the top of the radiator which will make it a lot easier to apply heat around bolt head area. Need to find an appropriate SAE hex key though, I've gone through all the ones I have and they are all Metric.

It's bloody frustrating this though :banghead:, it should have been a 5 minute job to take out 4 bolts, undo the bottom bolt under the radiator, swap the guard and bolt it up again.

I also have an 18 month old daughter that likes to get involved in everything I do as well so I have to carefully pick and choose my times for working on the bike, usually when she has her afternoon sleep ;-).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I was going to keep the side panels just in case I ever needed to put on the original OEM guard again. I may change my mind on this though depending on how things go tomorrow

I'm going to have to remove the left side cowling first as the fairing has a cut out around the top of the radiator which will make it a lot easier to apply heat around bolt head area. Need to find an appropriate SAE hex key though, I've gone through all the ones I have and they are all Metric.

It's bloody frustrating this though :banghead:, it should have been a 5 minute job to take out 4 bolts, undo the bottom bolt under the radiator, swap the guard and bolt it up again.

I also have an 18 month old daughter that likes to get involved in everything I do as well so I have to carefully pick and choose my times for working on the bike, usually when she has her afternoon sleep ;-).

Yepper, sometimes an "easy farkle" turns into something bigger.. You could be in this fellow forum members shoes, read post #15 :

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/45475-bolt-dimension-2.html


I'd rather be in your shoe's.... :thumbup:

 

[JasonB]

Yepper, sometimes an "easy farkle" turns into something bigger.. You could be in this fellow forum members shoes, read post #15 :

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/45475-bolt-dimension-2.html

I just finished reading through that thread.....

I'd rather be in your shoe's.... :thumbup:

Yeah, I think you're bang on with that statement. Especially so now as..... I've managed to get the remaining bolt out

I had to lever the side panel back and forth until the metal just under the bolt head fractured, that allowed me to get the panel off the radiator where I could then get a set of vice grips onto the bolt head. A little heat around the top of the rad using my butane soldering iron and hey presto, the damn thing eventually came out.

Looking at the state of the bolt, it looks more like corrosion than thread lock. I'm thinking putting in a new set of bolts would be a good idea at this stage rather then reusing the old ones.

I haven't had time to put on the new radiator guard yet, but I will post some pics as soon as I get it on.

Huge Thanks goes out to Townsend for his help! Really appreciate it fella.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I just finished reading through that thread.....



Yeah, I think you're bang on with that statement. Especially so now as..... I've managed to get the remaining bolt out

I had to lever the side panel back and forth until the metal just under the bolt head fractured, that allowed me to get the panel off the radiator where I could then get a set of vice grips onto the bolt head. A little heat around the top of the rad using my butane soldering iron and hey presto, the damn thing eventually came out.

Looking at the state of the bolt, it looks more like corrosion than thread lock. I'm thinking putting in a new set of bolts would be a good idea at this stage rather then reusing the old ones.

I haven't had time to put on the new radiator guard yet, but I will post some pics as soon as I get it on.

Huge Thanks goes out to Townsend for his help! Really appreciate it fella.

Excellent!

Just had to break that last little surface tension!

And yes, new bolts are cheap enough.

You may look for Stainless Steel hex bolt heads (if they'll fit). Quite a bit stronger, won't strip out as easy and you can use just a tiny bit of locktite if need be...

Scott

 

[JasonB]

Finally got a chance to fit the radiator guard last night. Looks good, however cleaning the headers I think is the next job as they look a bit crap now under a shiny radiator guard. You can see that I've had a go at the left hand side header pipe with some AutoSol, that was using just a cloth. I was thinking that using some very fine wire wool with the AutoSol would help the process along?

I'm taking the bike in this weekend to have the fairing lowers fitted as well so will post a few pics when it's all done.