error code 33 cylinder #1 and 4

[FinalImpact]

That's if you for sure have a non-intermittent open/short. Some components can fail due to temperature coefficient due to cycles of operation, ambient temperature or the combination. For instance, if a primary winding has a microscopic fracture/opening that conducts until the physical expansion of material and then the opening becomes non conductive. This would give an intermittent failure. So you would test the component against known values and it would pass because it is not in the same environment and needs to expand to fail.

^+1
Well said. Heat and Moisture are a huge deal!

Keep in mind that even if they test good electrically most of us have no way of testing the dielectric strength of the assembly. Meaning, electrically its sound and tests fine, but its the casing material which is breaking down allowing the energy a path to ground vs a path to the plugs electrode.

Get a visual on the coils, wires, caps in the dark looking for arc-over or use a spray bottle to mist water droplets on the suspect area to "change the conditions" and make it act up! If a light spray of water causes a misfire, its just a matter of time before failure occurs.

 

[aca035]

I change ignition coil and the problem is still here and im on edge at the moment All is the same except i dont have error 33 or any error on self diagnostic sistem.Any clue what to look next

 

[aca035]

maybe xenon

 

[FinalImpact]

Get a hand held multimeter and measure the battery voltage when its hot and under the misfire conditions.

How do you know the ECM is bad?

Did you do the water spray test or look at it in the dark as suggested? If the wires, caps, coils are leaking you will see the arc jump to ground. You can even hold a grounded metalic object near the wires while running. IT SHOULD NOT jump through the wires, cap or coil body ever!

I suspect that as your lighting system warms up, its feeding dirty electrical noise back into the DC system. Most of the bikes sensors run on very low voltage. Your HID lighting system is high frequency. If its feeding noise back into the bikes electrical system it could fry the ECM cause misfires.

Disconnect it!
If that solves it; either its defective or it has bad ground so stray energy is being induces into the bikes wiring. Also I would isolate all HID wires to prevent inductive feed back. Sheild them and ground them perhaps.

 

[aca035]

i disconected xenon light and problem is still here...:rockon: its 1 year of having problem

 

[aca035]

I read something about tps sensor problem i have value 16-100 could that be problem?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I read something about tps sensor problem i have value 16-100 could that be problem?

The TPS relays the throttle opening to the the ECU. When its not working right, it usually affects low speed engine perforamance. Your #'s are fine but you should check ALL THE numbers to make sure their ALL THERE and NONE missing inbetween. It won't turn off a coil.

For further reading: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...ou-experiencing-poor-idle-mileage-stalls.html

 

[aca035]

i cleaned fuel filter and going for test ride i check tps and the value is 16-103...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

On my FJR, some years ago, the bike wasn't running quite right (corroded connector that the dealer couldn't find).

Per Yamaha headquarters in Ca, the local dealer adjusted the #'s on the TPS slightly higher (there was a recall on ALL 2004 Yamaha FJR TPS' and FZ6) than as quoted in specs. This would give a little more fuel at the same throttle opening (the FJR is known for very lean mixtures in the Gen I bikes). (Basically telling the computer the throttle is open wider than it actually is...)

So the slightly higher # would just richen the mixture just slightly on the bottom end..

 

[aca035]

On my FJR, some years ago, the bike wasn't running quite right (corroded connector that the dealer couldn't find).

Per Yamaha headquarters in Ca, the local dealer adjusted the #'s on the TPS slightly higher (there was a recall on ALL 2004 Yamaha FJR TPS' and FZ6) than as quoted in specs. This would give a little more fuel at the same throttle opening (the FJR is known for very lean mixtures in the Gen I bikes). (Basically telling the computer the throttle is open wider than it actually is...)

So the slightly higher # would just richen the mixture just slightly on the bottom end..

i tested a bike a little on highway and everithing is ok for now i must test it more hope its just dirty fuel filter

 

[Motogiro]

On my FJR, some years ago, the bike wasn't running quite right (corroded connector that the dealer couldn't find).

Per Yamaha headquarters in Ca, the local dealer adjusted the #'s on the TPS slightly higher (there was a recall on ALL 2004 Yamaha FJR TPS' and FZ6) than as quoted in specs. This would give a little more fuel at the same throttle opening (the FJR is known for very lean mixtures in the Gen I bikes). (Basically telling the computer the throttle is open wider than it actually is...)

So the slightly higher # would just richen the mixture just slightly on the bottom end..

SV10000s is the same way. I'd bet it's the California emissions requirement. I have the procedure for doing mine just have to do it.

 

[thieu]

Well i'm all confused! Sometimes it's best the get professional help. Not saying dealership but someone hopefully in your area has a good reputation for solid work

 

[aca035]

Well i'm all confused! Sometimes it's best the get professional help. Not saying dealership but someone hopefully in your area has a good reputation for solid work

there is no one actualy there is but they dont have a clue or dont want to work

 

[aca035]

today i test it on highway 150 km and nothing happend all is fine.i put some motul fuel injector cleaner.just fuel filter cleaned(in service the told that they clean fuel filter but they lied.Next week i will test it more and go to one week ride and i will post result...cross fingers

 

[aca035]

problem is back and now i have error 34 thast another coil...wtf

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like the coil, as sated earlier, is failing when hot...

 

[aca035]

Sounds like the coil, as sated earlier, is failing when hot...

I changed that coil when i had error 33 and nothing hapened and now i had this error and i try to start engine again and i think ecu is dead again..

 

[aca035]

Update:i was able to fix ECU for few bucks:BLAA:i changed another ignition coil so i had 2 new ignition coils and put new sparks...but problem is still here ....any clue what to look next?

 

[FinalImpact]

I hate to say this but even NEW parts can be defective. It happens.
For the Record this bike now has:

Two NEW ignition coils
Four NEW wires
Four NEW spark plug caps
4 new spark plugs
But none them where all done at once???

Bad fuel can make the best engine run horrible. Does it currently have an error code? How do you know you don't have water in the gas or bad gas? Can you try a new source?

When does it misfire; is it at idle, under acceleration, at cruise, at high RPM, All of the the above?

Did you ever do the water spray test in the dark? In pure darkness, run the engine and look at the wires, caps, and coils. Mist them with water. If you have electrical energy leaking through the secondary coils high voltage path it will make the engine misfire. Did you do this? Its cheap. It just takes time.

 

[aca035]

Ok today i buy another Fz6 fazer s2 2009 ,i change new coils and sparks at once....My plan is to try some parts of my new fazer to my old fazer and see what is problem....No error is not comming error is coming later....The repair man of my ecu said that ecu was ok he just open it and restart it i dont know to explain how

My new fazer also have leo vince exhaust but when i put out db killers new fazer sound smooth and old fazer have stronger sound and have a like explosion sound like little bombs how is that possible?


and here is my another fazer