aca035
Junior Member
Update: I try new crank sensor,new valves ,tps sensor air pressure sensor,air temp sensor,new ignition coils,new sparks,new fuell pump....problem is still here :-s
any clues ?
any clues ?
Last edited:
error code 33 cylinder #1 and 4
- Thread starter aca035
- Start date
With all those parts swapped and it still shows error 33?
Did you switch out the ECU?
If not, that would be the final option. After that, we go looking for a bad ground or an open wire somewhere in the wiring harness of the bike.
Because the ECU can detect the signature of the coil(s) working correctly, it has a feed back circuit that looks for an energy pattern. With a bad ground or a loose wire, both the spark and the return signature pattern could be compromised. The schematic shows a R/B Red-black wire being common to both coils. Because your error is not for both, I'd start by ohm'ing out the Orange/Black & Gray/black wires between the coils and the ECU. Use a blow dryer or a hot air gun to heat the wires and ohm them again if this oily happens when hot.
You need to inspect every connector, every wire, every place a wire could be pinched or cut for damage.
Bike "A" is the original bike with error 33. Bike "B" is new bike. Can you place all of the bike A parts on bike B and does it run properly?
Did you switch out the ECU?
If not, that would be the final option. After that, we go looking for a bad ground or an open wire somewhere in the wiring harness of the bike.
Because the ECU can detect the signature of the coil(s) working correctly, it has a feed back circuit that looks for an energy pattern. With a bad ground or a loose wire, both the spark and the return signature pattern could be compromised. The schematic shows a R/B Red-black wire being common to both coils. Because your error is not for both, I'd start by ohm'ing out the Orange/Black & Gray/black wires between the coils and the ECU. Use a blow dryer or a hot air gun to heat the wires and ohm them again if this oily happens when hot.
You need to inspect every connector, every wire, every place a wire could be pinched or cut for damage.
Bike "A" is the original bike with error 33. Bike "B" is new bike. Can you place all of the bike A parts on bike B and does it run properly?
aca035
Junior Member
There is no error 33 for now but problem is same,I changed everiithing from new bike,and voltage regulator and all sensor etc.....i already have new ecu and have old one fixed....Could problem be exhaust valve or something like that....There is a very big difrence in working between new fazer and this one.I have leo vince installed on each one.in problematic fazer there is too much bang bang from exhaust and on new one is everithing smoot and nice??
Is that it? Is that the final complaint about how it runs? It back-fires when you let off the gas (too much bang bang)?
Please Explain What it does today. What does it do right and what is wrong?
Thanks. . .
aca035
Junior Member
No it runs like that when i start it up and ride it.When the temperature goes 70-80 he looses 2 cylinders and i cannot ride it.its like v twin sound.i must wait some time and than start it up again.there is no errors now.
aca035
Junior Member
1.fuel pump changed
2.ignition coils changed
3.all sensors(crank,o2,air pressure,air temperature...)
4.voltage regulatore changed
5.new sparks
6.injectors and whole system changed
and i cannot remember any more
2.ignition coils changed
3.all sensors(crank,o2,air pressure,air temperature...)
4.voltage regulatore changed
5.new sparks
6.injectors and whole system changed
and i cannot remember any more
Man, that's tough to diagnose. Did you switch each part one by one, test it, switch back and try another part?
Not to be negative, but how much have you put into the "bad" bike thus far? Seems to me like it's been a substantial amount. Cost doesn't seem to be a huge issue if you were able to purchase a second bike. If it were me, I'd just put everything back onto the "good" bike and sell the other one. or is that not a possibility?
Scorp
Not to be negative, but how much have you put into the "bad" bike thus far? Seems to me like it's been a substantial amount. Cost doesn't seem to be a huge issue if you were able to purchase a second bike. If it were me, I'd just put everything back onto the "good" bike and sell the other one. or is that not a possibility?
Scorp
aca035
Junior Member
No blue fazer iz mine fazer and i am emotional attached for him:rockon:,my brother and father also ride with me so im not selling anithing and i dont want to sell another biker bad motorcycle
aca035
Junior Member
No blue fazer iz mine fazer and i am emotional attached for him:rockon:,my brother and father also ride with me so im not selling anithing and i dont want to sell another biker bad motorcycle
bob808
Junior Member
You mentioned at the beginning that you have an aftermarket xenon kit installed. That may cause some nasty interference in your electrical system if not wired right. Try and unmount the whole xenon system and see what happens. It may be possible that the xenon ballasts fried electrical bits in your bike.
marco62
Junior Member
This is my first time on forum.
Sorry for my english.
After 42000 km and two years my Fazer Fz6 s2 on mainroad decised to have a fault code.
Famous code 33 and i'm going with only two cylinders.
Now the people is on holiday and then i'm disassembly the bike.
About the ignition coil , impedence input and output are correctly , and with ac supply , two spark plugs and two wires i see perfectly the sparks (on free air and not about pressure i know).
I'm waiting from ebay an used ignition coil .
The engine at home the day after start only at two cylinders.
I hope to resolve it !
Sorry for my english.
After 42000 km and two years my Fazer Fz6 s2 on mainroad decised to have a fault code.
Famous code 33 and i'm going with only two cylinders.
Now the people is on holiday and then i'm disassembly the bike.
About the ignition coil , impedence input and output are correctly , and with ac supply , two spark plugs and two wires i see perfectly the sparks (on free air and not about pressure i know).
I'm waiting from ebay an used ignition coil .
The engine at home the day after start only at two cylinders.
I hope to resolve it !
So try this: lift the tank and air box, need LONG 4mm hex key set (like 8" or more). Swap the leads on the coils and see if it fires the the other two cylinders. Use a water bottle to mist the headers. The hot ones will steam the colds ones will run off the water. Also clean the coil packs and wires of all oil and debris. Check that the spark plugs are not bridged with build up and/or replace them.
Have you tried to run it in the darkness of night looking for arc-over to ground?
Oh and Welcome! I'd start a NEW thread and link the applicable parts of this one to the new one.
marco62
Junior Member
No good news.
The wires are ok , clean and continuos resistence detect.
Insert four new spark plugs and two used ignition coil.
I've checked all the sensors and all of these are efficient.
Then i've tested the two ignition coils (the original) in the dark and with a gap of 6 millimiters and two spark plugs ; tha arc is perfectly visible (i suppose trouble, all the ignition coils are efficienty ! ).
I'm mounting all parts but ....same error code 33.
Now i sconnect various sensors , turn the key at on and on lcd meter appare various error code , that means that the ecu software is active and detect runtime , then restore the sensors and error code 33 is here.
A new ecu ,,,boh!
The wires are ok , clean and continuos resistence detect.
Insert four new spark plugs and two used ignition coil.
I've checked all the sensors and all of these are efficient.
Then i've tested the two ignition coils (the original) in the dark and with a gap of 6 millimiters and two spark plugs ; tha arc is perfectly visible (i suppose trouble, all the ignition coils are efficienty ! ).
I'm mounting all parts but ....same error code 33.
Now i sconnect various sensors , turn the key at on and on lcd meter appare various error code , that means that the ecu software is active and detect runtime , then restore the sensors and error code 33 is here.
A new ecu ,,,boh!
Just so you know; a spark into the AIR is very different than a spark of Combustion with Cylinder pressure +200 PSI and fuel AND AIR. The energy needed to jump the spark plug gap inside the running engine is MUCH GREATER than the plug in the open air.
The open air test: you should expect to see a white to purple spark. BLUE, may be ok but orange or red spark is likely not enough to run properly.
Please start a NEW THREAD and COPY your STUFF OVER. Its just confusion as yours does not have HID and has not had all the parts swapped has it?
The open air test: you should expect to see a white to purple spark. BLUE, may be ok but orange or red spark is likely not enough to run properly.
Please start a NEW THREAD and COPY your STUFF OVER. Its just confusion as yours does not have HID and has not had all the parts swapped has it?
Guitar Man
Keep moving!!!!
Sometimes problems can be caused by something very simple. I would check all the wiring for chaffing and proper connection before doing anything else.
aca035
Junior Member
Problem Solved.Official Yamaha Service on regular service put wrong connection + and - on ignition coil and thats what burn ecu 3 times .no refund...but i will have my revenge :spank:
aca035
Junior Member
Pay attention on that stuff on your fazers please!!!
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