error code 33 cylinder #1 and 4

[aca035]

Hello evehyone i have a problem with my fazer s2 2007....When i ride for 20-30 km #1 and #4 cylinder stop working i let engine off for 3 minutes and im back in game....last week that hapend and now that two cylinder wont work at all.Ignition coil dont give sparkle...I switch place with second ignition coil and it gives sparkle so ignition coil is ok....There is error 33 and 22 on dysplay(22 is probably because i put out air filter)and there is engine light on display also...Sparkle are also ok and i have new air filter so that also is ok...What could cause problem?

 

[reiobard]

how many miles (kilometers) are on the bike could just be worn out spark plugs, when one goes, it usually takes other out soon after.

the coil is unlikely since i am almost 100% sure that they are pairs by cylinder 1/3 and 2/4, not 1/4 as your test would have tested for.


I would pull the spark plugs and check them out, are they wet after teh bike runs without them firing? what color are they? Pics would be helpful when/if you pull them out.

 

[aca035]

how many miles (kilometers) are on the bike could just be worn out spark plugs, when one goes, it usually takes other out soon after.

the coil is unlikely since i am almost 100% sure that they are pairs by cylinder 1/3 and 2/4, not 1/4 as your test would have tested for.


I would pull the spark plugs and check them out, are they wet after teh bike runs without them firing? what color are they? Pics would be helpful when/if you pull them out.

There is 20 000 km on bike i done Service i have new spark plugs ,new air filter and ets,when i switch ignition coil on another pair of cylinder it gives sparkle ,spark plug are also ok i check them..

 

[Motogiro]

Could be clogged injectors? Could be loose plug to the injectors. Check all plugs. When misfire occurs and other two cylinders are working, do you get raw gas smell from the exhaust?

 

[aca035]

I check all sensors and all is ok....only thing i cannot check is ecu so i will look to buy new and the price of ecu is 800 euro :spank::spank::spank::spank::spank:

 

[lazamus69]

Maybe its time to take it to a garage before purchasing any parts that MAY fix it...

 

[RJ2112]

how many miles (kilometers) are on the bike could just be worn out spark plugs, when one goes, it usually takes other out soon after.

the coil is unlikely since i am almost 100% sure that they are pairs by cylinder 1/3 and 2/4, not 1/4 as your test would have tested for.


I would pull the spark plugs and check them out, are they wet after teh bike runs without them firing? what color are they? Pics would be helpful when/if you pull them out.

The coils will most likely support 1/4 and 2/3. The outer cylinders (1/4) rise and fall at the same time, on opposite strokes (one compression, the other exhaust). The inner pair (2/3) are physically 180° from that pair, so the 4 crank 'throws' are balanced. That pair also has one cylinder on the compression stroke, when the other is on it's exhaust stroke.

Done in that manner, the number of ignition coils can be reduced to 2. They fire every complete crankshaft rotation, so the spark reaches the cylinder that is on it's compression stroke.... and is also delivered into the exhaust stroke of it's companion cylinder. That one is 'wasted', as there is no ignitable mixture available.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Per the 07 manual, page 8-34, a code 33 is a faulty #1 and #4 ignition coil(malfunction detected in primary wire)

#22 is the air intake sensor- open or short circuited..

 

[Motogiro]

Sounds like it could be an open in the primary loop. Check the plugs at the ECU and in between to that coil pack. Could also be a primary winding open in that coil pack. If there has been a secondary to primary winding short, the ECU slave transistor to the coil could be gone. You might try checking primary voltage at that coil pack to see if there is an active ECU signal to that pack. Keep in mind you might want to set your meter at a higher voltage range setting because there may be higher voltage present in that primary, because of varied inductance at different frequencies/RPM, etc. You should be able to see comparable readings from the known working coil pack.

 

[aca035]

Ok.Problem is still here.I changed ecu(770 euro) everithing works fine for a few days then bang But the ecu is still alive i turnd off the motorcycle and after 30 second everithing works.And thats it ecu is not the problem something causing it.All measurments from service manual are good.But i suspect on bad ignition coil or is it posible that aftermarket xenon light killing my ecu.I have planned a big trip and now i again having problem

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm wondering if your added lighting is draining too much from the battery charging system. If you don't have enough voltage, it'll act up. If its not too hard, try disconnecting the additional drain and see what happens....

Also, as Cliff mentioned about the coils, perhaps the one has a short in it that doesn't short until it gets hot (just a shot in the dark)...

 

[Motogiro]

I'm wondering if your added lighting is draining too much from the battery charging system. If you don't have enough voltage, it'll act up. If its not too hard, try disconnecting the additional drain and see what happens....

Also, as Cliff mentioned about the coils, perhaps the one has a short in it that doesn't short until it gets hot (just a shot in the dark)...

Ok.Problem is still here.I changed ecu(770 euro) everithing works fine for a few days then bang But the ecu is still alive i turnd off the motorcycle and after 30 second everithing works.And thats it ecu is not the problem something causing it.All measurments from service manual are good.But i suspect on bad ignition coil or is it posible that aftermarket xenon light killing my ecu.I have planned a big trip and now i again having problem

I think I would change a coil pack as a 'shot in the dark' before I would change the ECU!
Did I miss something????

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think I would change a coil pack as a 'shot in the dark' before I would change the ECU!
Did I miss something????

I agree, the error code is pointing at the coil pack, not the ECU..

Guess he could swap the coil packs and see if the problem moves with the coils...

 

[thieu]

Hey guys!
I had this exact same problem! My bike only had 100 miles before it showed up but my symptoms where the same - The solution in my case was a new coil pack - really easy to do! 1 hour max to get the job done. If you find the service manual it will tell you the proper resistance value of the coils - that test will tell you for sure if you need a new coil.

Hope it goes well!! :thumbup:

 

[Motogiro]

Hey guys!
I had this exact same problem! My bike only had 100 miles before it showed up but my symptoms where the same - The solution in my case was a new coil pack - really easy to do! 1 hour max to get the job done. If you find the service manual it will tell you the proper resistance value of the coils - that test will tell you for sure if you need a new coil.

Hope it goes well!! :thumbup:

That's if you for sure have a non-intermittent open/short. Some components can fail due to temperature coefficient due to cycles of operation, ambient temperature or the combination. For instance, if a primary winding has a microscopic fracture/opening that conducts until the physical expansion of material and then the opening becomes non conductive. This would give an intermittent failure. So you would test the component against known values and it would pass because it is not in the same environment and needs to expand to fail.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think at this point I would test the coil pack cold, then put a hair dryer / heat gun (on low) on it simulating engine heat until it fails, THEN TEST IT IMMEDIATLY.

Everything seems to be pointing towards the coil pack

 

[thieu]

That's if you for sure have a non-intermittent open/short. Some components can fail due to temperature coefficient due to cycles of operation, ambient temperature or the combination. For instance, if a primary winding has a microscopic fracture/opening that conducts until the physical expansion of material and then the opening becomes non conductive. This would give an intermittent failure. So you would test the component against known values and it would pass because it is not in the same environment and needs to expand to fail.

That is a possibility! But mine only had problems intermittently as well, which would get worse as the bike heated up. Tested the coil stone cold and it was still way out of the accepted resistance value - 100's of ohms instead of 1000's. It's a quick check - the multimeter is your friend. I'm sure moto can agree with that!

 

[aca035]

Hello friends and first thanks for your reply.I allredy fried one ecu and i buy new one so i dont want to much experiment.I will disconected my xenon lights and i ordered new ignition coils.Should i change other parts like voltage regulator ,alternator...Problem is that measurments are fine but i supose that condition is changing when im riding.Sorry if i am borring but in my country official yamaha dealers and mechanic are idiots and im getting answers like fuel is dirty or something similar and no one wants to fix the problem so i must search over internet and found solution alone

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I believe replacing the suspected coil will take care of your problem...

Please keep us posted of your results and good luck.

 

[Motogiro]

Hello friends and first thanks for your reply.I allredy fried one ecu and i buy new one so i dont want to much experiment.I will disconected my xenon lights and i ordered new ignition coils.Should i change other parts like voltage regulator ,alternator...Problem is that measurments are fine but i supose that condition is changing when im riding.Sorry if i am borring but in my country official yamaha dealers and mechanic are idiots and im getting answers like fuel is dirty or something similar and no one wants to fix the problem so i must search over internet and found solution alone

Don't spend a lot of money on parts you don't need! If you want to give away money I have an address! :BLAA:

:Flash:You probably have a bad coil and only need to replace that coil.:Flash: It could be that the insulator cap is allow high voltage to short to the engine and the associated plugs then don't get the voltage hence the misfire. Only replace the coil that fires cylinders 1 and 4 (the outside cylinders) . Then get back to us. :rockon: Oh and my address is .......